Elaine's Trail of Thoughts — Travel Memoirs

Turn of Events

2009-09-30T08:42:00.000-07:00

Since returning from my travels, I have begun a PhD at the University of Limerick, Ireland. This post involves a mixture of teaching (undergraduate psychology students) and conducting my own social-cognition research. Being back at university has certainly been a shock to the system and lying on the beaches of Costa Rica seems like a million miles from here. I am, however, enjoying the experience, albeit slightly overwhelming. The balance of my time is leaning heavily towards my work at the moment, which is understandable and expected. As a consequence, I have decided that blogging must play a very minor role in my life at the present time, and most likely for the coming three years. It has been one incredible and wonderful journey since leaving London in October 2008, almost one year ago. Thank you for reading and sharing my adventures!

You never know, I might find a few moments here and there to blog about my PhD experiences and Limerick-life.......

50th Anniversary Yeats International Summer School, Sligo

2009-08-11T05:33:00.000-07:00

Firstly, I must begin with thanking Sligo VEC, in particular Leo J. Regan, from whom I received a scholarship to attend this year's 50th Anniversary Yeats International Summer School. I applied for a place in June, outlining why I would like to attend the course and what I might gain in the form of an essay. A few weeks of waiting and a phone call later, I learn that my application has been successful!

Yeats sculpture, Sligo

The Opening of the Yeats Summer School 2009

The unofficial opening of the school takes place on Saturday 25th July, where there is a buffet dinner and ever-flowing glasses of wine. The official opening of the school begins with a welcoming chorus of uilleann pipes outside The Hawk's Well theatre. The school is officially opened by Helen Vendler, the current Professor of Poetry at Harvard University, during a ceremony hosted by the Mayor of Sligo.

Sligo, my hometown & a source of inspiration for Yeats

Following the ceremony, there is a scenic tour of the Yeats Country concluding with Evensong at Drumcliffe Church, where W. B. Yeats is buried.

Under bare Ben Bulben's head

In Drumcliffe churchyard Yeats is laid.

An ancestor was rector there

Long years ago, a church stands near,

By the road an ancient cross.

No marble, no conventional phrase;

On limestone quarried near the spot

By his command these words are cut:

Cast a cold eye

On life, On death.

Horseman, pass by!

- Under Ben Bulben, W.B.Yeats

Ben Bulben Mountain
Knocknarea Mountain (as viewed from Rosses Point)

Drumcliffe Church

Sligo 'trad' session underway

Daily Programme

The Yeats summer school and festival is spread across two weeks, running from Sunday 26th July until Friday 7th August. Each weekday morning there are lectures at 9.30 am and 11.15am in the Hawk's Well Theatre, with a 15 minute intermission in between for a well-deserved mug of coffee. Most students sign up for seminars which take place from 4.30pm-6pm daily, comprising up to 15 students.

I decide to sign up for the famous Drama Workshop, run by Sam and Joan McCready, founders and artistic directors of the Lyric Theatre, Belfast. Sam and Joan have acted in and directed plays all over the world, including casts with Kevin Spacey, Liam Neeson and Danny Boyle (director of Academy Award-winning Slumdog Millionaire). The literature states that 'the workshop provides students with an experiential approach to Yeats's drama; in addition to rehearsing a play for public presentation, students receive training in verse speaking, choral speech, characterisation, masks and basic stage movement". Maddie Tongue is a professional choreographer who will be taking classes in movement and dance. Sounds good to me, although given that the workshop will culminate in the production of a Yeats play in two short weeks time (and the fact that I have never done any drama or read a Yeats play in my life!)....I am feeling slightly apprehensive. The drama group will meet from 2.30pm-6.30pm every weekday - a total of forty hours of drama in two weeks!

At lunch-time and most evenings there are special presentations by distinguished writers, poets and musicians (not to mention quite a few pub-outings!).

Given that I have received a scholarship to attend, I am feeling extremely grateful and have personally committed to attending every event that is on offer - an exhausting schedule!!

The lectures, seminars and other educational events total more than forty-five hours of work, the equivalent of most unit or three-credit courses at university. By the looks of my diary, it is looking more eighty-plus hours of work spread across the next couple of weeks. Here is my account of the lectures, workshops, poetry readings, theatre, music, dancing, art exhibitions and parties that I attend over the two weeks of summer school.

Week One

Day 1: Monday 27th July

I'm sitting here in my local theatre, The Hawk's Well, which has been transformed into a lecture hall. I look across to see Seamus Heaney sitting a few seats along my row with his wife Marie. Dotted around the audience there is a blend of famous writers, poets, critics, and students of an assortment of ages (17-86 years) and nationalities (I later count at least eighteen nationalities). Today, the theatre is almost full to capacity and there is a great buzz of excitement. I'm feeling excited too, partly to do with lectures and partly to do with my new notebook and colourful pens - something about new stationary really makes me happy! Okay, no more distractions. Let the lectures commence.

Day 1, Lecture 1: The Old Moon-Phaser: Yeats, Auden and MacNeice

Jonathan Allison (University of Kentucky)

Jonathan Allison is this year's Academic Director and he kicks off the school with an interesting account of the interplay and relationships between Yeats, Auden and MacNeice. This detailed and academic lecture is a pretty heavy start to the morning, emphasised by the speed at which Allison is speaking! Afterwards, I feel I need a strong coffee to get me back into scholarly mode.

Day 1, Lecture 2: Lily and Lolly Yeats: The American Dimension

Maureen Murphy (Hofstra University)

Maureen Murphy is the Assistant Academic Director of the school this year. A more accessible lecture on this Monday morning I feel. She provides a lively account of Lily, Lolly and their father, John Butler Yeats, in the United States. She shares sections of the letters exchanged between the girls and their father, and their subsequent attempts to encourage their father to return to Ireland. The letters provide lovely character details about these talented ladies, making the factual and historical accounts richer and more meaningful.

Evening Entertainment: Poetry Reading by Seamus Heaney

This event has been completely sold-out for a few weeks - I heard one student remark 'What on earth is going on? This is a poetry reading, not a U2 concert!'. Jonathan Allison amusingly informs when introducing the poet to the stage that a 'Seamus Heaney' is now rhyming-slang for a 'bikini' - both concealing and revealing hidden treasures!

Reading old and new poems, Seamus Heaney provides us with interesting nuggets of information and humour about his life and work. He closes the evening with two favourites, Midterm Break and St. Kevin and the Blackbird. I studied this poetry for my Leaving Certificate, so it was fascinating to hear familiar poems read aloud by the creator himself. He certainly has a powerful presence in a room, but yet is friendly and approachable. So approachable, that for the next four days of school he is surrounded by people constantly. Since having a stroke two years ago, Seamus no longer signs books but he is available for a quick chat between lectures.

Leaving the podium after a poetry reading that was humorous & moving

Day 2: Tuesday 28th July

Three Presences: Yeats, Elliot and Pound

Denis Donoghue (New York University)

The Yeats Society is taping each of the morning lectures so that anyone can drop into the Yeats Memorial Building to watch a DVD on a particular topic. This lecture is one that I will be watching again - fascinating and infiltrated with wonderful quotes from Ezra Pound and T.S.Eliot about Yeats.

Vacillation: The Yeatsian Contraries

Helen Vendler (Harvard University)

It is great to get 'stuck into' a poem, have it dissected in minute detail and then put back together with grace by Harvard's Professor of Poetry. It is this lecture that makes me want to sign up for a BA/MA in English Literature immediately! Helen is the type of scholar that dances between topics, abstract and concrete, effortlessly and with elegance.

Lunchtime Theatre: Irish Writers Entertain

Actor Neil O'Shea performs what is described as a 'warm and witty feast' of short scenes from the work of Yeats, Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, George Bernard Shaw, James Joyce and Christy Brown. Needless to say, the material is fantastic but the acting left a little to be desired today. Neil's performance may have been affected by his current state of unwellness, but the performance appeared over-rehearsed and the dialogue between scenes was somewhat patronising given the levels of scholarship within the audience.

Evening Entertainment: Poetry reading with Gerald Dawe and Bernard O'Donoghue

This evening's poetry reading is located in the newly rennovated Methodist Church in Sligo.

It cannot be easy to read one's own poetry to an audience of this calibre, especially when Seamus Heaney, Helen Vendler and your teacher, Sam McCready are all sitting in the front row. This was the scene for Gerald Dawe and despite a few nervous twitches, he shares some interesting and plain-language poems. I particularly like the one about moving from Belfast city to the rugged landscape of Galway as a child and seeing a white bath sitting out in a field.

The highlight of the evening is the reading of the Cork poet, Bernard O'Donoghue's new poem, Ascent of Ben Bulben, which has been commissioned by the Yeats Society to commemorate the 50th anniversary. Bernard has got a lovely lilting Cork accent which seems to accentuate the beauty of his poetry and storytelling. He also seems like such a gentleman, incredibly humble and unassuming.

Day 3: Wednesday 29th July

Yeats's Early Vision: Lost and Regained, 1903 - 1917

Ronald Schuchard (Emory University)

Yeats, Edward Walsh and the Gathering of Folklore

Bernard O'Donoghue (Wadham College Oxford)

Yeats and O'Casey in the Abbey Theatre

Colbert Kearney (University College Cork)

This is another busy and stimulating morning. I find Colbert Kearney's dissection of the public rejection and hysteria between W.B.Yeats and Sean O'Casey particularly fascinating - all the drama!

Evening entertainment: Poems from Eavan Boland and Music with Claire Roche

I'm a fan of Eavan Boland's poetry and have been looking forward to her reading and indeed curious to meet her. She gives a beautiful and highly professional reading. I find her poems provoking, sensitive and sincere. It is refreshing to hear a female voice on topics such as Irishness, myth and history. Here is The Pomegranate which deals with a mother's anxieties and understanding of her teenage daughter.

The Pomegranate

The only legend I have ever loved is

the story of a daughter lost in hell.

And found and rescued there.
Love and blackmail are the gist of it.
Ceres and Persephone the names.
And the best thing about the legend is
I can enter it anywhere. And have.
As a child in exile in
a city of fogs and strange consonants,
I read it first and at first I was
an exiled child in the crackling dusk of
the underworld, the stars blighted. Later
I walked out in a summer twilight
searching for my daughter at bed-time.
When she came running I was ready
to make any bargain to keep her.
I carried her back past whitebeams
and wasps and honey-scented buddleias.
But I was Ceres then and I knew
winter was in store for every leaf
on every tree on that road.
Was inescapable for each one we passed.
And for me.
It is winter
and the stars are hidden.
I climb the stairs and stand where I can see
my child asleep beside her teen magazines,
her can of Coke, her plate of uncut fruit.
The pomegranate!How did I forget it?
She could have come home and been safe
and ended the story and all
our heart-broken searching but she reached
out a hand and plucked a pomegranate.
She put out her hand and pulled down
the French sound for apple and
the noise of stone and the proof
that even in the place of death,
at the heart of legend, in the midst
of rocks full of unshed tears
ready to be diamonds by the time
the story was told, a child can be
hungry.I could warn her. There is still a chance.
The rain is cold. The road is flint-coloured.
The suburb has cars and cable television.
The veiled stars are above ground.
It is another world. But what else
can a mother give her daughter but such
beautiful rifts in time?
If I defer the grief I will diminish the gift.
The legend will be hers as well as mine.
She will enter it. As I have.
She will wake up. She will hold
the papery flushed skin in her hand.
And to her lips. I will say nothing.

The harpist and singer, Claire Roche shares the evening. She plays beautiful music of her own composition and sings some of Yeats's poetry. Her voice reminds me of Kate Bush.

Day 4: Thursday 20th July

Oisin Comes Home: The Young Yeats and Irish Literary tradition in the 19th Century

Roy Foster (Hertford College, Oxford)

Roy Foster appears to be a God-like figure in the Yeats field and is best known for his heavy-weight biographies of Yeats, providing us with a thoroughly engaging account of Yeats in the early stages of his career.

Inheriting a philosophy of life: W.B.Yeats debt to his Father

John Kelly (St. John's College, Oxford)

I thoroughly enjoyed this lecture about John Butler Yeats and his influence on his son. The idea that they 'rediscovered' each other when they were apart, seeking each other's views and respecting those opinions more openly later on in life. John Butler Yeats sounds like an interesting character, with many (I think) profound insights into society. He states that "spite is to Ireland what selfishness is to England" and "Americans are the most promising in the world, if half their commissions come through"! His fascination with subtle nuances between words and their meaning - oratory/rhetoric, joy/pleasure, opinion/idea - later influences his son's writing greatly. By all accounts, John Butler Yeats had a distrust of any personal success, hating egoism ("egoism inspires commerce") with a passion and lived his life more aimlessly making very little money for his beautiful portrait paintings. This lecture makes me curious about the role of Yeats's mother in his life.

The Great Yeats

An excellent monologue play written and performed by Sam McCready (the same Sam who is directing our drama workshop) on the life of John B. Yeats. A highlight of the school for me - Sam is a wonderful actor and really 'brings to life' the complicated and interesting fellow that was John Butler Yeats (father of W.B.Yeats). The play is extremely informative and plays a huge tribute to the learned and gifted painter and writer. The play consolidated and complimented the information learned in the lecture given by John Kelly.

Céilidh Dancing

As if the day hasn't been busy enough already, students and lecturers are invited to Sligo City Hotel for some lessons in céilidh dancing. We have so much fun - another highlight of the school - but we nearly passed out from the heat and exhaustion! There is something amusing (even satisfying) about seeing Oxford (etc.) professors inebriated, singing and dancing! Céilidh might not be the sexiest type of dancing (no Colombian hip-action) but it is certainly one of the most sociable and fun!

Learning the moves

The most experienced dancers show us how to dance in pairs

Rosy cheeks after a night on the dance floor

Day 5: Friday 20th July

Yeats and Symbolism

Warwick Gould (University of London)

Lots of history about symbolism during this lecture, some of which went over my head. I would have enjoyed it more if he had focused more on specific symbols within Yeats poetry.

'Send out naked on the roads': Yeats's Phatasmagoria from 'The Cold Heaven' to 'Cuchulain comforted'. Deirdre Toomey (University of London)

Unfortunately I seemed to have drifted off during this lecture (I blame last night's dancing)..nothing to report from me, other than a big doodle on my notebook. Feeling a little guilty afterwards, I drop by a nearby bookshop and consider buying one of Toomey's books until I find it priced at over one hundred Euro -well above my book-buying budget.

Evening entertainment: Poetry reading from Sinéad Morrissey and Moya Cannon

It is particularly great this evening to have two female poets who are entirely different in style, subject matter and approach. I really liked some of Moya's poetry although a few people complained that her poems were too short!

Overview of the Drama Workshop, Week One

During the first week of drama we get to know each other as a group, playing lots of games and ice-breaker exercises. We learn a little about each other's backgrounds, interests and personalities. Sam and Joan explain their experimental approach to theatre and highlight important and unusual aspects of Yeats's drama. We are becoming a close-knit group who are sensitive to each other and are beginning to function as part of a team. The drama group consists of Mary (Arizona, US), Maureen (Houston, US), Beau (London, UK), Michael (Devon, UK), Maria (Bavaria, Germany), Suzanne (Bavaria, Germany), Gloria (Belfast, UK), Bridget (Belfast, UK), Arthur (Sligo, Ireland), Lucia (Italy), Yuka (Tokyo, Japan), Kyoko (Tokyo, Japan), Lorraine (Sligo, Ireland), Hilary (Sligo, Ireland) and myself (Sligo, Ireland).

Joan orchestrates daily concentration and memory games, sometimes using props such as balls, keys and chewing gum packets. We read the play, 'The Words upon the Window-Pane' every day, discussing it and considering ideas for production. We practice reading poetry, vocal exercises, tongue-twisters, improvisation, dance, stage movement and experiment with wearing masks (Yeats incorporated various aspects of Japanese Noh theatre into his drama). Sam gives us a lesson in the ritualistic elements of Japanese Noh and we are given the opportunity to explore the use of masks. I am amazed at the transformational process that it involved in mask-wearing, 'let the mask lead you' Sam encourages. I find myself acting in ways that I would ordinarily not, I am quite literally a different being and detachment from self, insecurities and social norms (this gets me thinking about the use of balaclava & masks in crime). Maddie, our choreographer, makes us aware of our bodies and how the smallest changes in posture and position can make a significant impact on the stage.

We sing, play the piano and practice different types of walking (apparently David Suchet could not perfect his performance as Poirot until he mastered 'his' walk) - we practice walking like children (Lulu), flirtatious women (Miss McKenna) and boastful academics (John Corbet). We act-out various scenes from the play, experimenting with different people and different sets. Half-way through our four-hour sessions we enjoy a mug of tea (Barry's, of course) and numerous biscuits. All this hard work and fun takes place in the Friary Hall, Sligo. By Friday, we know our roles in the play and have got the weekend to practice and learn our lines. Unfortunately, Mary and Beau are leaving the drama group today as they have only signed up for one week of summer school - we are all very sorry to see them leave, both have been wonderful and creative influences on the group.

Concentration games with balls, masks & numerous other distractions...

The sober faces of concentration

Free-style stage movement with Maddie

This concentration game is called "Zip, Zap, Zop" !!

We laugh....a lot!

Getting the right note for the hymn"Sun of my Soul"

Hilary & Yuka

Exploring the world of masks

Yuka & Suzanne

Friary Hall - choreography with Maddie

Lucia

Group photo - last day of week one

Tea in the yard with Mary & Maria

Tea & Biscuits, hmmmm (Yuka, Bridget, Maureen & Mary)

Oh the excitement at 4 o'clock teatime!

Ending the week on a good note (L-R: Maria, Mary, Lorraine & Tom)

Exhibition of Jack B. Yeats: The Sligo Paintings

“Sligo was my school, and the sky above it”

Jack B. Yeats (the brother of W.B.Yeats) is widely considered one of Ireland’s most important twentieth century painters. Reared in Sligo by his maternal grandparents, the young Yeats spent much of his time travelling about the town and county with his grandfather who owned a shipping business. The landscape and the characters he encountered during this time made a deep and lasting impression on the young artist, and he returned to the memories of his Sligo days for inspiration for his work again and again throughout his life. In his later years Yeats acknowledged the deep influence of Sligo on his work in the words “Sligo was my school, and the sky above it” This exhibition celebrates the influence of Sligo on Yeats’ work and brings together many of his finest paintings from the Niland Collection.

We are eagerly awaiting the re-opening of the Model Niland Gallery in Sligo, where there will be a major retrospective exhibiton of the painter in June 2010.

On Sunday 2nd August, there is a book launch - 'The Only Art of Jack B. Yeats', a beautiful collection of letters and essays, edited by Declan Foley.

Week 2

Feeling somewhat revived after the weekend, I am ready for week two. I am curious to see whether the general feelings of excitement and energy will continue during the second week. I know myself that I am still exhausted, and I am sleeping in my own bed and operating in my mother-language. The weather has been miserable and all those eager sight-seeing students have been almost washed away during attempts to climb Knocknarea. Although a few students (mainly from dry, arid regions) tell me they are enjoying the constant downpours immensely. Ah but we Irish like to grumble, in particular about the weather. There are fewer students at lectures this morning, perhaps a few too many Guinness last night?

Day 1: Monday 3rd August

The Winding Stair and Other Poems

George Bornstein (University of Michigan)

George Bornstein discussion this particular volume of Yeats's poetry, considering the thematic ordering (rather than chronological). He mentions how initial poems in each volume are often critiqued by subsequent poems. Yeats was known for his excessive revisions of ordering, continuing after publication. He continues to discuss themes throughout the volume, focusing on particular poems. He notes that Yeats was particularly interested in learning the reactions to his poems, in particular his females acquaintances. In a diary, Lady Gregory writes that she is not sure how to respond to the poem that mentions her 'yellow hair'. When Yeats reads the poem to her first, she is unsure what would be an acceptable reply so she encourages him to 'read it again'. Yeats seems pleased and reads the poem again. After the second reading, Lady Gregory gets up to leave stating 'now I must wash my hair'!

Cuchulain's Only Son

Elizabeth Butler Cullingford (University of Texas)

This lecture is fascinating, drawing together strands from literature, popular culture, high culture, art, mythology and feminism about only children -raising issues such as 'it is a disease in itself', loneliness, maladjustion, fear of loss, putting 'all eggs in one basket', triangular structure, gender structure (2:1), intensity of relationships and differences between representations in literature and the media. Elizabeth then cleverly linking the discussion back to Yeats and his obsession with the heroic figure, Cuchulain - discussing in particular themes of risk and fear of loss. She pays particular attention to when poems and plays first appear and how revised editions change in later years. l look forward to Elizabeth's forthcoming book, Representing the Only Child.

Evening entertainment: Brock McGuire Band

Paul Brock and Manus McGuire, two of Ireland's most acclaimed musicians, lead the Irish folk band, Brock McGuire band. Enda Scahill plays banjo like I've never seen anyone play before! Denis Carey is a piano-player and composer, who has composed music for a number of films. My Mum's first cousin, Paul and his wife, Kay are visiting us from Australia at the moment, and they also really enjoy the show.

Great music - particularly enjoyed the banjo player!

I'm not clapping - Video

Kay, Anne & Paul - notice the glorious summer's eve

Day 2: Tuesday 4th August

Yeats' Other Island

Edna Longley (Queen's University, Belfast)

Edna Longley is generally thought of as one of the most influential critics writing on modern Irish and British poetry, and is one of the most powerful voices in contemporary Irish culture. This is a highly thought-provoking lecture, raising many questions about Irish and English influences on Yeats.

Yeats's Canons

Peter McDonald (Christ Church Oxford)

I am particularly interested in the idea of Yeats compulsively 'remaking' himself through his poetry, as raised by McDonald in this lecture. Yeats is quoted as saying "it is myself that I remake" and he became angry if anyone tampered with this remaking, such as changing the order of his canons - the idea that he who moves my poems will be cursed! Yeats believed there is always an opportunity for further revisions - believing this process of revisiting and revising as positive, 'a version of myself in certain moods'. He describes an excitement from re-reading his own poems that matches the delight of first composition ("my body a sudden blaze"). The transience of permanence and impermanence, in particular the difficulties of textual permanence. For Warwick Gould, the publication of Yeats's poetry was simply 'a moment of composition'.

Evening entertainment: Poetry reading by Michael Longley

Michael Longley is celebrating his 70th birthday this week and the RTÉ have broadcast an interesting programme on The Arts Show about his life and work to commemorate. Tonight is an eventful evening with one woman collapsing and then an issue with the lights inside the Church, Longley deals with each unexpected situation with sensitivity and appropriate humour. My Mother, who joins me at the reading, feels that he is 'the kind of man who makes me feel safer being in his presence'. What strikes me about his poetry is his delicacy with words and yet brutal honesty. His wife and muse, Edna, plays a tremendous role in his life - both individuals are famous and highly-acclaimed, he as a poet and she as a critic. I notice that they don't sit beside each other in lectures; I like to think that they grant each other professional space and lime-light while loving and supporting each other in private. Tonight, he reads poems about his grandchildren, flowers, lost friends, Shetland ponies and horrific war themes. Longley ends the reading by saying that we were a great audience, sitting in pure silence without coughing - a rare treat.

Day 3: Wednesday 5th August

Yeats: The Colour of Poetry

Terence Brown (Trinity College, Dublin)

Professor Brown traces the evolution of the use of colour throughout the history of the poet. Beginning with examples of early poetry that were rich in colours, and discussing the use of colour as symbols. Whereas later poetry is deliberately barren in colour terms. Yeats changes his view and approach to colour significantly, expressing his dissatisfaction with overcharged colour, and focusing more fully on the presence of a pervasive light. Brown continues to discuss the poet's fascination with female hair colour. His later poetry contains greater narrative descriptions, dependent of line and form with limited colouration. Fascinating also is the use of 'grey' as a means of symbolic expression.

Yeats and the Idea of Tradition

Edward Larrissy (Queen's University, Belfast)

The lecture discusses Yeats interactions with "tradition" - Classical literature, societal, philosophy, ethical and political conservatism.

Observing Jack Yeats

Nicholas Allen (NUI Galway)

Focusing mainly on the manuscripts, life drawings, letters, maps and children's books/puppets of Jack B. Yeats, Allen provides us with some interesting insights into the life and personality of Jack. Allen reminds us that it is important to consider from where the artist looks (artist's location) not just the subject matter. The slides shown are beautiful. The lecture reminds me that Jack was a wonderful writer as well as an exceptional artist. It also makes me think I could quite happily live a life similar to that of Jack - writing, painting, riding horses and fiddling around with boats......

Day 4: Thursday 6th August

Yeats and Sligo

David Fitzpatrick (Trinity College Dublin)

It is interesting to get a historian's perspective on the Yeats's connection to Sligo, this is a work-in-progress, and David opens the floor to the audience for comment and correction. It is great to break down the formal boundaries and listen to others questions and comments. The debate opens up the idea of having a physical home and/or a spiritual home - a place where one returns to become grounded and source their creative power? Fitzpatrick says Yeats spent roughly a time-period of seven years in Sligo in total. One local woman says 'Yeats claimed Sligo as his home, so we return the gesture and claim Yeats as our poet'.

Cuchulain the American

Meg Harper (Georgia State University)

Harper takes an interesting slant on the Irish mythical character of Cuchulain and draws similarities between the symbolism and cultural purpose of the cowboy mythology of the American (Wild) West - themes such as cultural identity, geographical representations, ideas of masculinity (Cuchulain - the ideal male citizen of Ireland) and autonomy interactions with native people and the escapism of story-telling (particularly during times of economic and political uncertainty).

Lunchtime theatre: The Cat and the Moon

Perhaps the most famous of Yeats’ mask plays, The Cat and the Moon is a comedy about two symbiotically dependent beggars; one blind, the other lame - and their mutual torment of one another as they search out a holy well and resident supernatural saint whom it’s reputed can cure both their afflictions. The Cat and The Moon was first premiered at The Abbey Theatre on September 21st, 1931.

This Blue Raincoat’s production of “The Cat and the Moon” is directed by Ciaran McCauley, a member of Blue Raincoat who has focused exclusively on Yeats in his career as a Director. The play features the well-known actor and writer Michael Harding (Winner “Best Actor Award”, Dublin Fringe Festival, 2003) and Michael Roper in the roles of the Blind Man and the Lame Man. The chorus is made up of Sandra O’Malley, Barbara Ryan, and Kellie Hughes.

The play is outstanding - the set, the movement, the use of mask, music, timing, voice projection and interaction between the characters. Attending the drama workshop has fine-tuned my appreciation of the production, in particular the elements and themes that are common in Yeats's plays.

Evening entertainment: Dinner provided by "Sligo Tourist Development Association"

The drama gang - being noisy and doing drama-things

I've just spotted the cake.....

Yum Yum

Day 5: Friday 7th August

Yeats The Literary Hero

Anne Margaret Daniel (New School, New York)

I am particularly interested to hear that Anne Margaret Daniel is currently writing a book about Redheads! This lecture is based on the first edition of the novel 'Evelyn Innes' (1898) by George Moore and the idea that central characters are based on W.B.Yeats, Olivia Shakespeare and Maud Gome. The speaker discusses the interactions between protagonists with humour and drama, a sort of Yeats meets 'Sex and the City' discussion!

A Family Affair: The Yeatses and the Cuala Press

Declan Kiely (Morgan Library, New York)

It is interesting to hear the history of the Cuala Press whose mission it was to 'make beautiful things by Irish hands'. Kiely shares images from the digital library of the handmade books with close ups of the woodcuts, binding, layout and design during the history of the Cuala Press.

One of the famous woodcut prints of the Cuala Press

Time for a quick 'class photo' & then, it is off to rehearsal

Overview of the Drama Workshop, Week Two

The rain does not seem to stop for the first few days, we all get drenched on the way to drama and then steam up the windows of the Friary Hall. At least the hall is warmer this week with the addition of two electric heaters. Incidentally, since arriving back from Latin America I cannot seem to get warm (unless induced by exercise or electric blankets) - does anyone know how long it takes for ones internal body heating regulation system to catch up with one's physical location in the world? At this rate, I fear that if I remain in Ireland I may have perished before the end of September.

Returning to drama this week, there is a more serious atmosphere. There is a realisation by us students that we have five days until our performance in The Hawk's Well theatre. Sam is looking a little stressed and sleep-deprived, although manages to stay patient. Given that in addition to getting us lot into shape, he is also playing the leading role of Purgatory, he has got a lot on his plate. This is where the positive and calming influence of Joan shines even more brightly (behind every great man there is a great woman...etc.).

This week the structure of our day is slightly different. We spend a few minutes warming up our bodies and voices and then launch straight into rehearsals. We practice our lines, as well as the hymn and poems contained within the play. There are fleeting moments where I think 'aargh I'm tired and want to go home' but then those frustrated feelings are replaced by wonder at the progress and evolution of our play. We work long hours. By Thursday the play is really beginning to come together, Sam shares his relief and his lack of sleep earlier in the week. It amazes me how much a performance can improve from one rehearsal to the next, within a couple of hours.

There are two plays being performed tonight. Firstly, there is a production of Purgatory, performed by Sam McCready, Maddie Tongue and Michael Fish. Secondly, the play that we have been rehearsing for the past two weeks, The Words upon the Window Pane.

Purgatory

This tells of a family saga of decline and fall through its two remaining members: an Old Man (the father, Sam) and a Boy (his sixteen year old son, Michael). It was first presented in at the Abbey Theatre, Dublin, on 19 August 1938, a few months before Yeats's death. It is set outside the former family home, which the Old Man's father had drunkenly burned down, leading him to kill his father as the building perished. The Boy is skeptical about tales of his family's former grandeur, and is repelled by the Old Man's story of losing his own mother as she gave birth to him, and the decline subsequent events wrought on the family. Tonight, the Old Man tells the Boy, is the anniversary of his mother's wedding night. This was the night on which he was conceived after a bout of drunken carousing by his father, and thus when his mother's fate was sealed. At this point a ghostly figure appears illuminated in a window of the wrecked house. In an attempt to wrest his mother's soul from purgatory, he suddenly stabs and kills the Boy. However it appears to be in vain: approaching hoof beats of his ghostly father returning to the bridal bed signal that no spirits have left the place, and the grim cycle begins again.

This production is outstanding. As well as directing our play, Sam has been rehearsing this play. Michael, who plays the role of the Boy in this play also plays a leading role in The Words Upon the Window-Pane. Maddie's plays out the Mother's grief in a meaningful and beautiful way.

The Old Man shares the grim story with the Boy

The mother, a soul locked in her own misery

The Words upon the Window-Pane

This W.B.Yeats play concerns another great figure from Irish literature, Jonathan Swift, whose spirit, with those of his two lovers, Stella and Vanessa, and the torment felt by by each. Swift's torment and ultimately Stella's revenge are enacted by Mrs.Henderson when she and group of others gather together for a séance. What is particularly interesting is that each of the characters attending the séance have their own personal agenda for being there. Richard Allen Cave (1997) notes that "this play is not easily forgotten: it fulfils Yeats's desire that a play should 'engross the present and the dominate memory' in the most potent and challenging way". The play is powerful when read, but of course much more so when acted out at the theatre.

Before we go on stage, we have a group-hug in the dressing room and Sam says 'now the work is done, go out there and have fun!' That is exactly what we do. The energy between each of us performers on stage is electric - at various points during the play, particularly when the supernatural occurrences began to take place, I can feel the hairs on my neck stand up! We are all so engrossed in our characters and the séance that it actually feels real - I am experiencing the emotions of the ghost of Johnathan Swift!!

It was great to have the talented Sligo-woman, Lorraine Maloney, playing the challenging role of Mrs. Henderson (that's me in the background as a ghost of J.Swift!)

Mrs. Mallet (Brigid), Cornelius Patterson (Arthur) & Minister Abraham Johnson (Suzanne)

"Lulu is going to scream....."

Mr. Corbet (Michael) & Miss McKenna (Hilary): "I feel something is going to happen"

"I am by profession a Minister of the Gospel......I shall be able to communicate with the great Evangelist Moody."

John Corbet (Michael) shows Dr.Trench (Kyoko) the words upon the window-pane

Dr. Trench, who once was a sceptic....

You taught how I might youth prolong

By knowing what is right and wrong,

How from my heart to bring supplies

Of lustre to my fading eyes.

Farewell parties: The Glasshouse, Sligo

We are all giddy and delighted when we come off stage, dancing around and cheering spontaneously! We get out of our costumes and head over to The Glasshouse where the party is in full swing. Most of the people who were in the audience are here and they tell us how great we are and that they were truly mesmerised by the performance! We have a few glasses of wine, play a few last drama games, such as 'I'm a bunny rabbit' and then it is time to say goodbye with reluctance.

Gloria, Brigid, Sam & Stella Mew (CEO of the school)

Camellia, (a Romanian student with her husband, along with Margaret Raftery (my secondary-school English teacher who encouraged me to attend the school) & her husband, Noel

Mum & friends - Anne, Sheila & Sandy

More cake....!!

Suzanne & Maria

Japanese expression of Irish music

Michael & Hilary

Maddie (choreographer), Joan (actress & director) & Maddie's husband

Playing 'Who's a bunny rabbit?'

Experimental theatre leads to many great things, including experimental dancing!

Closing thoughts

The two weeks have been a phenomenonal success for me personally and based on the feedback I have heard from fellow students, lecturers and organisers. I have learned a great deal about W.B.Yeats, the man, the poet and the dramatist - but also I have expanded by knowledge about the talented Yeats family, the Pollexfens and their connections to Sligo. It has been wonderful to make new friends and share the experience with people from all over the world. I would go so far as to say that the drama workshop has been life-changing, most certainly it has been a life-enriching experience. Who would have thought that twelve absolute strangers could develop such a close bond and produce such a fantastic performance? Certainly not without Sam and Joan McCready! I will always look back upon the Yeats Summer School 2009 as two weeks that were filled with learning, laughter, friendship and fun! I heard one lady in her forties on the phone telling her partner that 'this is the best thing I have ever done'.

For future years it would be great to see younger lecturers and more female lecturers - looking at the cast of lecturers, many of whom had grey beards, it did make me wonder who is going to carry on this tradition? Perhaps this year due to the 50th anniversary they called in the "heavy-weights" as I heard someone describe them! However, it was wonderful to see four young Sligo people attending the summer school and taking part in the drama workshop. The lectures were very formal and it would be nice to encourage more spontaneous discussions, opinions and feedback. There have been complaints that the two-week programme is too tiring and intensive, however, people can opt to attend for one-week if they chose. I would like to see the Yeats Summer School being marketed more effectively and represented in the National (and International) media. The fact that the only newspapers reporting the events were The Sligo Champion and a German broadsheet is disgraceful - why are the Irish Times or the Irish Independent not jumping on the story (they were invited by the Yeats Society)? This is one of the many great annual events in Ireland where we can raise awareness of Irish literary talent and take pride in Irish culture and achievement.

Some students are staying in Sligo for a few more days so myself & Lorraine bring them along to the Tobergal Lane Cafe for jazz

Eddie Lee (another Sligo talent) & his fellow jazz musicians

Leonard Cohen, Dublin

2009-07-25T08:48:00.000-07:00

We browse the shops and drink tea in Dublin's city centre before dropping off our overnight bags to the Clarion hotel. Later the concert is held just a stone's throw away, at The O2 arena (where The Point concert hall originally stood).

The Spire, O'Connell Street

O2 Arena, Dublin

Empty seats in front, one will soon filled by Bertie Ahern

There is a crack in everything

That is how the light gets in (Leonard Cohen)

Leonard Cohen begins the show on his knees, taking his hat off and bowing after every song.His voice sounds rich, deep and gravelly, the musicians & backing vocalists are outstanding. Leonard waltzes, twinkles and skips around the stage.

Mum and I share a love of his growling poetry and pleasing face, we agree his "second rate physique" is not too unpleasing. "We love you Leonard!", one lady shrieks.

The Famous Blue Raincoat

Click here for The Future video from July 23rd

He reads the poem, 'One thousand kisses deep' which is touching and powerful. He sings every song from the album, "The Essential Leonard Cohen". After three hours of entertainment at the highest standard, he bids us farewel - hoping we are surrounded by loved-ones and if not, wishing us peace in our solitude.

Leonard says goodnight

We return to the hotel bar for gin, tonic and post-concert analysis. Mum went to see Leonard perform at the Albert Hall in 1970, regarding it as the best concert she had ever attended - until tonight! She is delighted that he has exceeded her expectations once more. I agree, this has been a wonderful evening. Happy and satisfied we retire to bed.

Next morning, the sun is shining. We pass the Jeanie Johnson (replica of 19th century sailing ship) and the Famine memorial on the way into 'town'.

Jeanie Johnson

The National Famine Memorial

These statues commemorate the Great Famine of the mid 19th century when one million Irish people died as a result of starvation and disease, and one million people emigrated overseas.

Haunting & harrowing sculptures
Located in the Docklands, alongside the River Liffey

Samuel Beckett bridge (due for completion at the end of 2009)

For lunch we find nourishment at one of my favorites, The Winding Stair - a Michelin award winning restaurant based on Ormond Quay.

Traditional Irish recipes with a modern & organic twist

We board the bus, reading Leonard's poetry and humming 'Take this waltz' all the way home!

Happy Birthday, Mum!

2009-07-14T16:10:00.001-07:00

The end of my travels intentionally corresponds with my Mum's 60th birthday (I'm sure she won't mind me telling her age, she certainly doesn't look it!). Delighted to be home in Sligo, I bring her up breakfast-in-bed at the break of dawn so that she is fuelled for another day of her financial accounting course. Thank goodness she is occupied for the day, it gives me time to ensure that all is in order for her surprise birthday party. This is something I have been planning for a while, in fact, ideas were beginning to crystallise when I was in Argentina six months ago. I am so excited, it is really hard to keep it a secret, especially during the final hours!

Mum gets back from her course. I tell her that I am popping down to see my friend Róisín and wish her a nice evening. Of course, I've got my glad-rags in my handbag along with heels, confetti & party poppers. Mervian picks me up from around the corner, she is bursting with excitement like myself. She has been a fantastic support over the past few months (and always!), doing the run-around while I shout orders from another continent!

Breda is working her magic by inviting Mum out for dinner at 8 o' clock. Upon pick-up she informs Mother that first it is necessary to collect Rod (her partner) out in Strandhill after his game of golf. Hmm, all sounds plausible.

At the venue, I am thrilled to see familiar faces arriving. I have butterflies in my tummy, giddy at the thought that my Mum has no idea! Irina and I dash around filling glasses and sprinkling little drops of stardust on all the tables. Next we get the nod from Rod, 'she's close, less than 5 minutes'. 'AAargh!'We all shriek and giggle! Right Vinnie, you are on the lights. Kevin, are you ready with the music? Has everyone got their poppers ready? On the count of three...one..... two (there is a shadow under the door).... three..........SURPRISE!!!!!!!!!

And her face? Priceless!!

Oh my GOD!!!

Mum then proceeds to go through a series of emotions. Shock, wonder, excitement, delight and gratitude. She really had no idea that there would be a party. She had no idea that she would see (almost all of) her nearest and dearest in one room. Modest as ever, she couldn't believe the 'fuss' that everyone had gone to! She was in such shock when she walked through those doors that she actually (subconsciously) pinched my auntie Olivia's arm, leaving a bruise! It is as if to say 'are you real? Is this really happening?'!!

The party is fabulously fun! We chat, dance, eat and drink, and then dance some more. It is exactly how parties should be - a joyous event where everyone is having fun and laughter fills the room. We dance until our faces glow red and the music stops.

Mum has been thanking me every day since, but really the party was my way of thanking her - for being the warm, consistent, loving, adventurous and inspirational Mum that she is.

I've been doing lots of yoga over the past few months and one of the poses (asanas) is called 'extended mountain pose'. It is not difficult, and basically involved standing legs hip-width apart, arms stretched high and wide above one's head, eyes wide-open looking up at the sky. One day in Central America a teacher asked us to visualise the following:

Imagine the soles of your feet connected to the soils of the earth, keeping you grounded and connected to Mother Nature. Imagine your feet growing roots, keeping you stable and strong. Standing tall and proud, you are a tree extending upwards, heart open, reaching up to the skies. You are open to all possibilities, you believe all your dreams will come true and that there are no limitations. Inside your heart, there is a centre of light, from here you can beam your light and love out to the world.

I thought of my Mum when I heard this visualisation, and now every time I do this pose I think of my her - strong and rooted in practicality but yet always believing in the endless possibilities of life and always lighting my way with her wisdom.

So, happy birthday Mum! I wish you health, happiness and peace. Thank YOU for everything.

Chelsea Physic Garden, London

2009-07-12T05:34:00.000-07:00

During my two-week stopover in London, I visit the Chelsea Physic Garden. Situated in the heart of London, this 'Secret Garden' is described on the information booklet as 'a centre of education, beauty and relaxation'. Founded in 1673 by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries, it continues to research the properties, origins and conservation of over 5000 species. The garden has somewhat unusual opening hours which makes it more challenging to visit, especially if one is working.

The Blue Plaque (one of over 700 in London identifying places where famous & distinguished folks have lived or worked - see Nick Rennison's The London Blue Plaque Guide)

An impression made in Victorian times of the 'demonstration' of medicinal plants in the Chelsea Physic Garden

The Chelsea Physic Garden was founded in 1673, as the Apothecaries' Garden, with the purpose of training apprentices in identifying plants. The location was chosen as the proximity to the river created a warmer microclimate allowing the survival of many non-native plants - such as the largest outdoor fruiting olive tree in Britain - and more importantly, to allow plants to survive harsh British winters. The river was also important as a transport route that linked the garden to other open spaces such as Putney Heath, facilitating easy movements of both plants and botanists.

I imagine one of these chopped up in my dinner..

In 1876 the Garden enlarged its educational aspirations by deciding to run a lecture course for young women who were training as botany teachers. At the end of the 19th century the trustees of the City Parochial Foundation agreed to take over the running of the Garden from the Society of Apothecaries. In 1983 The Garden became a registered charity and open to the general public for the first time.

Agapanthus

The Chelsea Physic Garden has developed a major role in public education focusing on the renewed interest in natural medicine. The Garden of World Medicine which is Britain's first garden of ethnobotany (or the study of the botany of different ethnic groups and indigenous peoples) is laid out together with a new Pharmaceutical Garden.

The Garden of World Medicine is an ethnobotanical display that demonstrates the uses of plants by a wide variety of peoples. Here you will find plants used medicinally by the North American Indians, the Maori from New Zealand, Australian Aboriginals, Chinese, in temperate parts of India (Ayurvedic medicine), by tribal peoples of Southern Africa as well as in our own folk traditions of Northern Europe and the Mediterranean. This is not a garden of proven medical remedies, rather one that looks at the uses of plants for medicinal purposes within each culture concerned and their own views about what constitutes healing. However, in each bed you will find a plant which has been taken up and proved effective by controlled medical trials. For me, this is the most fascinating section of the garden.

Currently undergoing research as a possible treatment for cancer & HIV

There is a beautiful cafe with wonderful-looking salads, fresh lemonade and other exciting delights. I am feeling a little naughty, deciding to sample the orange and polenta cake served with crème fraîche. Delicious! Looking around, I appear to be the youngest visitor by about fifty years!

Guilty pleasures

Afterwards, I sit on the lawn and read a book in the sunshine - all in all, a very pleasant afternoon!

My Glastonbury 2009

2009-06-29T13:11:00.000-07:00

Safely back in London, it is time for me to prepare for the next big event in my social calendar - the Glastonbury Festival of Contemporary Performing Arts, commonly abbreviated to Glastonbury or Glasto. It is the largest greenfield music and performing arts festival in the world - best known for its contemporary music, but also features dance, comedy, theatre, circus, cabaret and many other arts.

I bought the ticket towards the end of last year, not quite sure knowing what state of mind I might be in after 6 months of travelling in Latin America, but I figured it would be something fun to look forward to.

Sam is chief organiser and has cleverly rented a camper van. Parked up in the family camper van section is a breath of (almost) fresh air compared to the other tent-only campsites. The rest of the happy campers include Sam's father, Martyn, his four brothers; Hedgie (good Jonathan), Alex and Lewis, cousin Pippi and her boyfriend (bad) Jonathan, and Sam's school-friend, Will (Herrington-boy).

I travel to Worthy Farm in Somerset aboard a National Express non-air conditioned coach along with Pippi and (bad) Jonathan (who discover along the way that they are not travel-compatible!). The journey from London Victoria to the farm takes about four hours and given that the sun is blazing, we are a little warm. The Italian chap beside me keeps offering his shoulder as a headrest, telling me that he would be very grateful! I force myself out of sleepiness to avoid the awkwardness and instead quiz him on his Glasto knowledge, this year is his 20th anniversary of attendance. We pass the heritage site of Stonehenge on route.

Stonehenge

The first hurdle we cross at Glastonbury, is the 5-mile trek from Entrance A (coach drop-off point) to Exit C (location of fellow happy campers and camper van). Navigation with the pathetic map we've been given is nearly impossible!

Jonathan takes his hat off to the Glasto-organisers

Part of the grasslands has been cordoned off, preventing us from crossing to meet up with the others (bloomin' Maximo Park wrecking our plans!). I quickly realise that my phone will be about as much good dropped down a portaloo as it is in my handbag (no signal, and quite shortly afterwards, no battery). After a quick re-jig of plans, Sam and Will manage to rescue us and lead us up the 'hill of death'. What a view!

Walking down the hill of death!

Our very respectable camp, equipped with 5 tents & a camper van

My temporary home laden with all Glasto-essentials

The shocking thing about Glastonbury for me is the sheer size and volume of people and acts - sprawling across 900 acres, with 190,00 attendees, 50 stages and over 1000 acts..

One of the main campsites, near the Pyramid stage

There are many options for food & drinks - noodles, crepes, Indian, Chinese, tofu, goat curry, sushi, Caribbean, Mexican etc.

With more bands & artists than one can imagine....

This evening is about becoming oriented with the site and stages, especially relaxing around the Queen's Head listening to folk-type music such as Liz Green. It is becoming clear that with most phones not functioning that coordinating our group of nine (with different musical tastes) through crowds of people is quite a challenge.

Myself, Will, Pippi & Bad Jonathan

Black clouds loom, soon the rain pours down

This evening the rain begins, Pippi and I take shelter with hot chocolate in hand.

Looking out at the downpour

And with rain, the mud follows....

The highlight for me this evening is bopping along to East 17, my all-time favourite band during my late childhood years. I am amazed that I remember all the words, clearly a true fan!

East 17, in the blurry distance

The word around the site is that Michael Jackson is dead. It is quite common for wild rumours to spread through festivals so we are not quite sure whether to believe it. The late evening is spent in the Pussy Parlour where Billy Nasty throws out a dubstep set.

On Friday morning, we are woken by the baking sunshine. Hedgie (good ) Jonathan crawls out of his oven-like tent and collapses on the grass where it is mildly cooler!

Hedgie, fast asleep on the grass on Friday morning

This morning is spent wildly chasing the elusive goose that is the health centre. There is something in the air here that has really triggered off my asthma - with all my wheezing and gasping I manage to sleep very little. Eventually a medical centre is located, I see a doctor, get a prescription and I'm given directions to an on-site pharmacy situated on top of a hill on the other side of the site (Grrr). I arrive a wheezy mess and almost hug the lady who gives me a new inhaler. Deep breaths, then time to reunite with the rest of the troops at Regina Spektor.

The New Yorker, Regina Spektor, is an artist I had forgotten about since university and was pleasantly surprised by this re-discovery (especially the songs Us and Samson). Then, it is time for Icelandic singer, Emiliana Torrini in The Park. Her sweet voice is who I listened to at the most challenging times during my Master's degree. Sitting up on the hill in the sunshine is very pleasant.

Emiliana Torrini

Stone wall at the entrance to The Park

Sand sculptures in The Park

The Park

Chairs were a good idea afterall...

It all gets a bit too much for Will!

Emiliana Torrini plays on The Park stage

Before the rain!

Cannot rest too long, it's time for Lily Allen. Looking very purple and glittery, she wears a white glove in respect for Michael Jackson. She sings her 'F*£$ you', anti-establishment song, which sends most of the crowd crazy shoving two fingers in the air to the government. I find this very strange!

Lily on Pyramid - the audience making rude gestures

Then, over to Jazz World for The Streets, picking up a grilled Hallumi wrap on the way (yum!). The performance is quite mundane, but we have seats at the District 66 bar which keeps any complaints at bay!

Sunset over Jazz World

They play the classic, Dry your Eyes, which makes me a little more forgiving of their performance. We stop off in the comedy tent and a familiar comedian is on the stage. Last year Sam and I went to the Edinburgh Comedy Festival and went to see this guy's act, however, the fire alarm went off in the middle of a joke, we evacuated the building and the performance was abandoned. So, it is incredible that we walk into the comedy tent just in time to hear the punchline of the same joke and the rest of the act! Talk about perfect timing.

Half the act viewed in Edinburgh, the other at Glastonbury!

Then, we get our first taste of the wonders and strange occurences of Trash City. Hard to explain, but basically full of weird and wacky folk, fireballs, helicopters and pinball machines.

Sam watches the antics of Trash City

The grand opening of Trash City

Brief stop at the Ladybird Circus on the way back to camp

It is easy to get up on a Saturday morning when you know that Ralf Harris is singing songs in the sunshine. I feel a wave of emotion pass through me as he sings Two Little Boys.

Pretty Flags around Jazz World

Practical flags (Lewis is here)

Will religiously applies the Factor 50 & still manages to get burned!

Enough nostalgic childhood memories of Tie me kangaroo down sport and we are off to the Lancashire Hotpots. Witty and entertaining, well worth going to see. It is ridiculously hot outside, so we seek shade inside the Avalon Cafe where more acoustic stuff plays.

Avalon Cafe, a haven of calm & cool

Capturing the crowd

Sam resting his feet between gigs

WHERE ARE YOU? The most frequently asked question of the festival for those with functional phones (mainly T-mobile it seems!). Answers range include; I'm to the left of Pyramid. I'm under the England flag. I'm in the Pussy Parlour. Other common phrases or exclamations inlcude; Eeeew, that was soooo disgusting. Oh my God, it smells so badly here. How can people be so disgusting? These comments are generally but not exclusively related to portaloo discussions.

Pippi shows us the effects of dry shampoo!

This afternoon gets a bit more lively with the much-hyped, much-anticipated La Roux playing over in the Dance Village. I enjoy the set, and the song Fascination is certainly growing on me! Bulletproof is still my favourite..."this time baby...I'll be bulletproof", very catchy!

La Roux

In the crowd I get separated from the others while The Qemists play. I listen to some of Deadmau5, and then make my way over to Kasabian. At which point I realise that I no longer have my ticket (needed for entering and exiting our campsite). After a flash of panic I decide to retrace my footsteps through the still-mucky grounds and miraculously about fifteen minutes later I see a small folded white paper - my ticket!

I find my ticket right beside this posterboard (note rubbish levels on the ground!)

I wander back to the Pyramid stage for Kasabian, and then over to the Other stage for Pendulum - both bands give amazing performances and there is a great atmosphere in the audience.

These young lovers passionately kiss before the crowds pile in for Pendulum

Rocking out at Pendulum

The feeling of listening to wonderful music while watching the sunset is incredible

Making my way back to the Dance Village

No rain this evening over the festival

Back at the Dance Village I bump into Sam, Lewis and Will - just in time for Eric Prydz. Good fun, but not quite as much fun as 2 many DJs!! This is the best gig of the festival for me, I simply do not want the music to stop! With mixes of MGMT, Michael Jackson, Eurythmics, The Gossip.......it is just incredible.

The grand finale, 2 Many DJs

Sunday morning begins with 6 day riot, who I have never hear of but I enjoy a great deal. There is a rush to get over to Dance West for Goldfish, the South African duo whom Adam introduced me to a couple of years ago. I like the fact that they play instruments live during their DJ sets.

Goldfish

A little too early on a Sunday morning for more dance music, it is time to sit on the grass and listen to Emmy the Great and Amadou and Mariam. Later, Will and I head over to see the Cuban band, Orquesta Aragón. We eat some delicious Goan fish curry, drink some pear cider and giddily dash over to see the Yeah Yeah Yeahs (great costumes but not such an exciting show).

Then it's time for...Madness!! Baggy Trousers, House of Love and Wings of a Dove - what fun to sway and sing along to!

Madness

Lewis (with Hedgie in stripes) during Madness

Will + Pear Cider = Bad idea

Next, it is time for the Noisettes, London Electricity and Mr.Scruff. For me, the question of whether to see The Prodigy or Blur is curbed when somehow I end up passing out on my way to the toilet and land up on a stretcher bed in the Glasto emergency medical tent...the mystery remains as to what actually happened. After four hours of teeth grinding, seizures, hallucinations and paranoia under the supervision of the medical team and drinking pints of water, I begin to come around. About 2am I make my way back to camp, wrapped in a survival blanket, and try to explain to the others what happened. There is talk of drink spiking. Having looked into the symtoms, it appears that it was some kind of amphetamine. Those four hours were, without doubt, the most scary few hours of my life. I remember crying and crying, beggin the medics to make it go away. Without a phone, there is no way to contact anyone. The rain is torrential tonight, leaving the grounds looking like a mud-bath once more.

On Monday, we are all up by 6am. I am still feeling quite weak and wobbly after the terrible occurences of the night before. The boys and the van speed off to join the 15-mile tailback of vehicles leaving the festival. I later learn that on route to Exeter the rear window literally pops out of the van, smashing into smithereens. How on earth did that happen? Myself, Pippi and Jonathan are hoping that we can hop onto one of the earlier coaches back to London (we currently have tickets for the midday). No such luck, we have no choice but to laze about in the sunshine, reading our Glastonbury 'Review' and wallowing in our festival odours. Considering the constant reminders of 'Love the farm, leave no trace' I cannot believe the rubbish. There are fields filled with abandoned tents, wellys, cans, cups, food, cigarette butts, clothes, shoes and torches. It is unimaginable how this farm will return to luscious pastures anytime soon.

Glastonbury abandoned once more

After a slight detour on the coach to avoid traffic, we eventually return to Victoria. Back to London and the heatwave of 2009 (last one 2003 apparently!).

So, in review here is my list of yays and boos of my first Glastonbury.

The Yays.

Sunshine. Seeing Sam & co. Drinking hot chocolate with cream and flake under a shelter while the rains pours down. 2 Many DJs. Crepe with butter, sugar and lemon. The choice of amazing music. Standing at the top of the Hill of Death. Sitting on top of the camper van with an even better view. Nice people. Goan fish curry. Emiliana Torrini. Mr. Scruff. Babywipes. Pear cider. Free stuff. Welly boots (as comfy as slippers!). East 17's Alright. Dry shampoo. Pretty flags (all colours of the rainbow) and practical flags (e.g. Lewis is here). Fancy dress - makes it much easier to spot friends in the crowds. Tiger (the adorable 18-month baby next door) waving at us, giggling and singing 'ee-eye ee-eye oh'!

The Boos.

Ending up with Glasto medics, twice. Rain. Mud. Poo and portaloos. Phones without signal or battery. Climbing the Hill of Death at least twice a day. Clashes between great bands. The smell of other people's pear cider vomit. Walking miles to see bands. Sore feet. Not meeting up with friends due to lack of phone. Catching a glimpse of onself in one of the rare portaloos with a mirror. 02 phone network (system flooded).

It was fun though! Back next year? ....ah sure, who knows where I'll be?

The Yellow House

2009-06-21T15:08:00.000-07:00

La Antigua Guatemala (Old Guatemala) is the place where I spend the last few days of this trip to Latin America. It is a city in the central highlands of Guatemala famous for its well-preserved Spanish Mudéjar-influenced Baroque architecture as well as a number of ruins of colonial churches. It has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

La Merced, featuring Maya lotus flower designs

Central Park, Antigua

The city is full of cafe courtyards

Antigua, Volcan de Agua in the background

Guatemalan Metropolitan Cathedral

Coincidentally Adam arrives on the same day, so Irina and I meet him for a last supper before he heads on to Semuc Champay.

Just like old times in Argentina

We have a tasty meal and walk over to a great bohemian bar, Cafe No Se. On route, I am deeply engaged in conversation with one of our new friends, admiring the colonial buildings across the road when I smack my forehead off one of the protruding stone windowsills. The lump grows and blood pours. Yes, Adam confirms, the windowsill is hard. I ask for an ice-pack inside the bar, I am certainly not the first it seems! I stay for one drink, the rest of the evening is fuzzy.

Days later I revisit the windowsill

Pacaya is one of the world's most active volcanoes. The exciting feature for tourists is the visibility of flowing lava (which some bright sparks have decided to sell marshmallows for toasting upon).

Pacaya Volcano

We are dropped off into the midst of chaos. Boys with horses, children selling sticks and fellow tourists have been offloaded into a small parking lot. Guides run around calling out names, and rounding up groups. We begin the 1.5 hr hike upwards. We pass a white bull and numerous guys offering us a 'taxi' on top of their horse.

The starting point..

Initial blue skies and view of countryside

The ghostly bull

The view for most the hike

Booo to crowds

The texture & shapes of this volcanic rock is incredible

Flowing lava

Giant hot coals!

Marshmallow toasters

We are halfway up when a thick mist drops, creating an eerie feel. Along the way, we realise that we have made a rather silly decision to climb the volcano on Saturday, given the crowds. Later I learn that 400 people climb the volcano this afternoon. There is a mixture of locals and foreigners who are enjoying a weekend free from working or voluntering in Guatemala. For me personally, the crowds really cloud the experience, fighting for a spot near the lava is not what I had imagined. At the top, we wave to Adam across the crowds. Seeing the lava makes it worthwhile, it is pretty cool (can't think of a better word). We return down, the temperature has really dropped, along with the sun. The rain pours, and we slip and slide in the mud all the way back to the bus.

On Sunday, Irina accurately notes that "to chicken bus" is now officially a verb - as in "we chicken bused it to Chichicastenango market today". I like chicken buses - the bright colours, the personalised interior, the party atmosphere created by the pumping Bachata music. However, our journey to Chichi shakes my confidence a tad. On the positive, the speeds clocked ensure that we arrive at the market before most of the other tourists..

No two chicken buses are ever the same...

Chichi market occurs every Sunday and filled with all kinds of wonderful tapestries, weaving, fruit and lots of tat. The market is well-laid out and friendly - it is easy to spend hours wandering around.

Shopping for Jesus, Mary & Joseph
Beautiful jewlery
Chichi market

Best food in town from a street stall

Happy me

For the next couple of days, I fill my hours doing yoga, reading, drinking fresh lemonade and wandering around the occassional church.

Lemonade with fresh mint

The Yellow House provides a wonderful breakfast every morning, best enjoyed on the rooftop terrace in the sunshine overlooking the city.

Breakfast at The Yellow House

On my final morning, I am feeling relaxed and well-rested, ready to begin the slow journey back to Europe.

Tikal: Featuring the ventures of Lord Chocolate

2009-06-16T10:09:00.000-07:00

The first wonderful part of visiting the ruins of Tikal is that they are situated deep inside the Guatemalan jungle. The towering structures, peering out from above the canopy are incredible - the tallest of which is over 80 metres (not to be climbed by those with vertigo...unless you are as determined/stubborn as my friend Irina!). The Maya settled here around 700 BC; most likely because of the situation on top of a low hill above swamp ground and an abundance of flint for tools and weapons. Within 200 years, the Maya of Tikal had begun to build stone ceremonial structures, and by 200 BC a complex of buildings stood on the site of the North Acropolis.

La Ceiba

This time we spend more time choosing a guide who is knowledgeable and whom we can understand. It is well worth the effort. I learn many snippets of interesting facts about this ancient civilisation from Chino, our guide: The Maya people celebrate with human and animal sacrifice upon altars. They often held ball games, where the losers would be killed. The importance of numbers to the Maya people is evident throughout their structures and sculptures. Zero was an important number, representing the beginning, the end and the cyclical nature of our lives. They were strong believers in astronomy, using both moon and sun calenders. The moon calender represents nine months, the length of a pregnancy cycle; often there are nine stellae and 9 altars on the site. All the sites are connected by underground catacombs, which they may have used for processions and carnivals. Compared with Copan, Tikal shows very little sculptural work.

My favourite story is of Lord Chocolate (Ah Cacau) who was responsible for initiating a Maya renaissance - restoring the city's military strength and its primacy in the Maya world as the most resplendent city. It was he who is responsible for most of surviving temples around the Great Plaza.

Despite Lord Choc's best efforts Tikal's greatness waned in 900AD, part of the mysterious collapse of lowland Maya civilisation. It wasn't until 1848 that it was rediscovered by a Guatemala expedition.

One of the 'twin' pyramids - with 9 stellae & 9 altars used for ceremonial sacrifice

Bird's eye view of Tikal & the jungle

The tallest temple - a very, very steep climb

Main Plaza - thanks to Lord Chocolate

The Panama hat lives on

The view from these temples are pretty impressive

Chultones, these were essentially holes in the ground used for storing maize, beans and other food. There are 9 of these large 'fridges' around the site.

Chino, our guide showing us one of the Chultones

Tricky steps

There are many different styles - depending on the century when built

Posing under the vast shadow of this monster!

Stucco - a form of white cement used for building

I was surprised to learn that of Guatemala's 13+ million population today, over 60% are indigenous - nearly all of whom are Maya, with a splattering of European and Caribbean influences in the remainder of the population. The Maya are spread throughout the country, but most densely populated around the Highlands.

So far, only 20% of Tikal has been excavated and is open to the public, all of which has been funded by international donations.

The jungle around Tikal is alive with creatures great and small. During our five-hour walk, we see woodpeckers, macaw, a toucan, pizote, shiny green bugs, red and black howler monkeys and a tarantula. We do not see any pumas, jaguars or rattlesnakes unfortunately.

Irina & her eight-legged friendTarantulaPizote

Our time spent around Tikal, is not quite so majestic. Taca Airlines steal all my toiletries, without prior warning and with a rudeness that taunts my temper. The 38 degree heat, and 60% humidity is unbearable - especially when trying to sleep in 6-bed dorm room and only one measly fan. Irina gets attacked my mosquitos, I get annihilated by bed bugs (to such an extent that I visit the local medic to ask if I have chicken pox). Los Amigos, where the infestation has taken place, has a wonderful communal area and great vegetarian food - so we are upset that we are forced to change to another hostel.

We do make one worthy discover however; Hibiscus iced tea! Basically one makes hibiscus tea in the usual way, lets it cool & then blends with ice. It is delicious during these extreme temperatures, and the longer-term benefits include cleansing the kidneys and purifying blood.
We feel the liquid flushing out all those toxins injected into to us from all those disgusting bugs....

Copán Ruinas

2009-06-11T18:24:00.000-07:00

'Something must have gone wrong for you to be stuck in La Entrada' says the Lonely Planet. Naturally, Irina and I end up in this grim town in Western Honduras. One of the centres of narco-trafficking in the country apparently. We blame a tourism officer in León for giving us bad information, based on his estimates we had no chance of making it to Copán Ruinas by nightfall. As we board our (last resort) bus to La Entrada, a man tells me that the bus is packed with military men. 'Is that a good thing?' I ask cautiously. Yes, yes he assures me - they will protect us in case anything goes wrong..

Bus drivers and conductors in Central America are exceptionally and consistently helpful, but when they are hungry they stop & eat...no matter the time, the place or the hurry! We passengers look on longingly as a lady magically produces a fine-looking meal at a bus shelter on the side of the road.

Note flowery tablecloth upon which the bus drivers dine!

We "treat" ourselves by staying at El San Carlos - a miserable, overpriced motel. There is one blessing, the restaurant serves noodles (food which I have not eaten for months and which I was craving earlier this afternoon). There's only one thing on our mind over dinner - what time does the first bus leave in the morning?

My first & lasting impression of Honduras? All men wear hats!

We arrive to the beautiful, tranquil town of Copán Ruinas and dance with delight! Cobblestones, white-washed buildings, ample restaurants, artesanal shops, friendly people. At the hostel (En la Manzana Verde) we have been placed in the 'world-famous' dormitory - Irina's got Madonna and I've got Al Bundy!

Copán Ruinas

We ride horses for the afternoon (only $15 for three hours), along the river, over the hills and towards San Lucas' farm. This is good riding country and I am relieved to see that the horses in the area appear to be well-fed. Our guide, Carolina, is great fun (she is self-reportedly mad!) and never fails to stop laughing! She is thrilled that we speak Spanish and are of similar age.

Carolina, our guide around the local countryside

Irina & I letting the horses cool down in the Copan river

Pretty scenery all around

The three of us chat for three hours solidly!

The Ceiba tree, the national tree of Guatemala

Giant Lemons

Pineapples grow on low bushes...in case you were wondering?!

From up here, we can look down upon the ruins of Copan

We have a great afternoon, and stop off at the Jardin de Mujeres Tejiendo, Maya Chortia workshop - a small-business run entirely by women working to improve the quality of their lives and the lives of their children. We take a look at the looms used for weaving and buy one of the beautiful scarves (the money is used to buy school supplies for the children).

Loom used for weaving

Lots of feminine scarves handmade in the workshop - a celebration of women's creativity

Hondureña weaver & her daughter

Back at the hostel we make friends with a sweet Canadian, Jay, who also got stuck at La Entrada last night - phew, maybe we are not so ridiculous after all!

Next morning, it is time to visit the Copán archaeological site, situated one kilometre out of town. Many people overlook visiting Copán ruins, believing that the Tikal ruins are more spectacular - in actual fact, Copán are intriguing in a very different way and were one of the most important of all sites where Maya civilizations lived, prospered and mysteriously crumbled. During the Classic period (AD250-900) this city culturally dominated the region for centuries, now often labelled the 'Paris of the Maya world'. Tikal is celebrated for its very tall temple-pyramids. Palenque is renowned for it's limestone relied panels. But, Copán is unique in the Maya realm for its emphasis on sculpture.

The unique features of Copán;

1. The most numerously carved commemorative stelae and altars.

2. Many complex stone sculptures decorating the buildings.

3. Elaborate stucco facades (for example, the four decorated sides of the Rosalia)

4. The monumental Hieroglyphic Stairway that has the longest inscribed text at any Maya site.

5. All of the above are sculpted in a flamboyant style, and frequently in deep, nearly full-round relief.

Beautiful grounds around the ruins

Macaw (noisy creatures)

We hire a guide from the main office at the ruins for $25. She turns out to be terrible with very poor English and minimal historical information. In hindsight we wondered why we didn't ask her to speak in her native tongue, perhaps she would have been more informative? Nevertheless, the site is beautiful - filled with well-maintained lawns (this is very exciting for me, I have not see proper grass since Ireland!), huge Ceiba trees and brighly-coloured macaws. I was quite surprised to learn that a fair amount of the site has been reconstructed, many of the originals are kept inside the museum.

The ball court - the loser of the game was sacrificed on one of the ornate altars

Lovely lawn - the sweet smell of freshly cut grass

To help us imagine what the ball game may have looked like

To give a sense of perspective

Symbolising "The underworld"

Jay & Irina try to listen enthusiastically to our "guide"

Eventually we ditch the guide. Our desire to learn more about the Maya people not yet satisfied, we visit the on-site museum which displays a large selection of original sculptures from the central ruins, as well as from outlying household areas.

Inside the museum of Copán

Conservation of the stone sculpture and stucco decoration is a primar concern for Copán, a World Heritage site since 1980. Inside the museum the themes include: underworld symbolism, scuptural art masterpieces, warfare and ritual, fertility and cosmology, scribes and sculptors, community and council, nobles and residences. The quality and preservation of the original scuptures is incredible.

Later, we walk another 2km to La Sepulturas to see the ruins of the residential housing of the middle class. With the surrounding scenery, this must have been a wonderful place to live.

Tuk-tuk back to town (the heat is unbearable!)

I wish I could stay longer here in Copán, it is such a charming place. I would love to stay at the El Cisne farm in the highlands, do more horse-riding and sample all of the various restaurants in town. I would like to get to know more Hondureños, who by all appearances are friendly and jolly folk. The alarm clocks sounds early the following morning, we must catch a bus and cross the border into Guatemala.

León

2009-06-09T19:17:00.000-07:00

This 'new' time pressure is a strange concept. My backpacking days are numbered, with only two weeks until I fly to London from Guatemala City. I have one foot firmly rooted to the Central American earth, while the other foot dips into thoughts of Ireland, career, accommodation & friends. I feel restricted with a schedule, my wings clipped.

Leon is another colonial city, pretty to stroll through, but our main reasons for visiting are to use it as a base, firstly, for visiting Las Peñitas, a coastal town about an hour's drive from the city, and secondly, to climb the volcano, Cerro Negro.

Cathedral, Leon

Iglesia de la Recolección

Irina the Ballerina

Leon is the second largest city in Nicaragua, and has the feel of a university town. It is less touristy, calmer and (dare I say?) more civilised. We spend a few hours meandering the city and observing city-life. Irina is out of contact lens fluid, and whilst interacting with a local optician she muddles her words slightly asking for 'fluid to clear her lentils'....almost as bad as me asking for my fish in Colombia to be 'sin caballo' (without horse - rather than 'sin cabeza', without head!). Oh dear, the locals must have a good chuckle at us!

Other than buildings and cathedrals, Leon is famous for being the birthplace of Ruben Dario, perhaps the most famous Spanish-writing poet.

Rubén Darío (1867 –1916) was a Nicaraguan poet who initiated Spanish-American literary movement known as Modernismo (modernism), flourishing at the end of the 19th century. Dario has had the greatest and most lasting influence into twentieth century Spanish literature, and journalism. He has been praised as The Prince of Castilian Letters, and undisputed father of the modernismo literary movement. Dario is revered as Nicaragua's greatest diplomat and a leading voice of Central and South America (Wikipedia, 2009).

Fundacion Ortiz

Electricity is a huge problem in Nicaragua, and as we stroll through this pleasant art gallery the security guard switches on and off the lights at the appropriate moments.

Las Peñitas

Our original hope was to surf here. Once glimpse at the waves is enough to convince us that this is no longer a possibility - the sea is wild. A freak wave washes over us whilst sunbathing and another sweeps away our belongings, and again later while eating lunch in a restaurant. It has the feeling of a once popular place, now deserted and a bit miserable. A number of places in Central America have that feel, most likely because it is low season. We burn the calories from our tasty lunch racing the white monsters.

Las Peñitas

Soggy restaurant

Mé féin

Irina risks getting her toes wet

We catch another chicken bus (old American school bus) back to Leon, we are the last people left on the bus and the rain is lashing down upon us, the city flooded. The bus driver is a lovely fellow who drops us all the way into town. We walk through the floods back to the Lazybones hostel, laden with sand, dust and muddy water...to discover that there is no water for a shower (despite all the rain!)....

León, flooded

Dodging hidden holes in the road

Cerro Negro

A very new volcano, the youngest in Central America, having first appeared in April 1850. It consists of a gravelly basaltic cinder cone, which contrasts greatly with the surrounding verdant hillsides, and gives rise to its name, which means Black Hill. It has erupted frequently (and apparently is due any day now..last eruption was in 1999). One unusual aspect of several eruptions has been the emission of ash from the top of the cone, while lava erupts from fractures at the base. We are very keen to climb it!

Saturday morning at 4am, we meet at the Quetzal Trekkers office. It is strange walking through the city at this time, quite eerie, and on almost every street there is a security guard with weapon. Quetzal Trekkers is a non-profit volunteering organisation, offering tourists adventurous hikes in Nicaragua and Guatemala to raise money to help an organisation called Las Tias (The Aunts) who work with street children and children at risk. 100% of the profits goes to Las Tias who have been in existence for over 15 years.

We meet our fellow trekkers from France, Cecile and Matthieu, our guides, Justin and Mike. Also, joining us are two boys who attend the school, Alex and Santiago, originally street kids, but now well fed and receiving a decent education. Later, as I begin chatting to the boys I am shocked to hear the boys ages, 13 and 14 - judging by their appearance, maturity and topics of conversation I would have guessed about 9/10 years. I enjoy having them around, they are full of beans and mischief! After breakfast, we walk a few blocks to catch one of the local school buses to bring us closer to base for beginning the five-hour trek.

We begin with country lanes, local traffic jams and small paths on the edge of a forest.

The group

The Jam

After an hour, we come a cross an incredible black landscape - a dark desert of sand, stretching for miles head of us with rolling hills - a deep contrast with the vibrant green trees nearby. It could perhaps be described as the antithesis of the white salt flats in Bolivia!

After another hour we reach the park-rangers station, nibble a few biccies and take a look at their collection of iguanas and snakes. They are breeding these creatures here, two-thirds of which will be released ino the local wilderness and the remainder will be sold to the international markets.

The snake (& lady) charmer at the Parkranger's office

Little green iguana

Full-grown Iguanas

Alex holding his first snake

We continue walking up the side of the Cerro Negro. We are so lucky that the clouds are blanketing the sun today, keeping us slightly cooler! Reaching the summit, we wander around the craters and watch the smoke rising from the cracks in the surface.

It seems so strange that trees can grow here

Santiago & Alex

Wherever I am in the world, the ladybirds follow....

Then we run back down the other side, which is an almost-vertical slope! A very strange experience. The gravel makes it possible to bound and leap, making us feel we are floating and gliding! I think I scream the entire way down, kicking up black gravel in my midst, boots choked with ash and grit.

It is pretty steep!

Alex & Santiago manage to catch a little green lizzard shooting across the desert - very amusing scene!

At the base we enjoy lunch, and set off through a forest towards another local-bus pick-up point. We stop briefly for a fresca, and then journey on back to the city. I would unequivocally recommend hiking with this company, everything was extremely well organised, fun and socially responsible.

Time to prepare lunch (circa 10am)

Lunch time - I cannot even remember how many various ingredients went into this pot of deliciousness

After lunch, we notice this amazing ring around the sun

Hooray!

Fresca (simply coke & ice in a bag with a straw)

Hot & sweaty, we trekkers look on in jealousy at this wallowing piggy!

Nicaragua has been full of highs and lows, always provoking a strong reaction and certainly never a dull moment. The following morning we catch the 6am bus, quite pleased to be leaving in many ways, I am looking forward to Honduras.

Velago, Nicaragua

2009-06-06T19:04:00.000-07:00

It is Monday, the first day of June 2009, a perfect day to begin our beginner's sailing course in Nicaragua. At 7am, we meet Ferdinand at Velago Nicaragua - Irina and I are feeling very excited! Before getting in the boat we must learn some theory. We learn about wind directions, points of sail and sail positions. All seems to make sense, on paper at least. Then, it is time to learn the correct names of all the parts of a boat, many are familiar to me but poor Irina has to learn all these words for the first time in English, her second language! Theory over, we learn how to rig our training boat, Helga (another Gruben jolly boat); attaching the rudder, hoisting the sail, hooking up all the various lines/sheets and lowering/raising the centreboard. The next task is learning how to put the theory and rigging in motion!

Helga

Trying to figure out what attaches to what!

Hoisting the sail

The course is intensive - we are cramming a 20-hour course into three days. We borrow bicycles and cycle to and from the sailing school. Our daily routine consists of breakfast at 6am, cycle fifteen minutes to the sailing centre, three hours of sailing, cycle 15 minutes back to town for lunch, cycle back to sailing school, three more hours of sailing, then finally cycle back to town in time for either yoga or salsa depending on the evening. We sleep soundly every night, dreaming about planing over waves.

Ferdinand & I cycling back to town after a morning's sailing lesson

Views of Mombacho volcano behind

Sailing is physically and mentally challenging - it works every muscle, demands concentration and requires quick-thinking and good coordination. I liked being on Dad's boat as a child, but now that I am at the helm and understanding how to control the boats movements, I absolutely love it! It is one of the most exhilarating sports I have tried - anyone who disagrees should certainly give it a try. I realise that I am a speed-demon, enjoying finding the fastest point of sail and "hiking out" to reduce the heeling effects of the wind. There is no doubt I am hooked, as is Irina. We both discuss how we can incorporate sailing into our already long list of hobbies...

Helga in the foreground, with a pretty catamaran behind

Irina looking comfortable at the helm

Ready to go about....?

Dodging rocks & fishing boats ahead

On day two, we spend another 6 hours on the water - learning the art of sailing with the main sail and the Genoa (tricky business!). The winds are much stronger today (although the sun is still shining), and at one point I physically cannot pull in the main sheet - this is a game of tug o' war I cannot win. We tack back to shore and take a crash-course in knots - learning eight of the most useful knots for sailing. The locals watch us sailing across the lake, criss-crossing regularly and surely must think we are mad! There are no other sailboats here, small engine boats are used either to transport people or for fishing. Boating for pleasure is unheard of. With 90% of the local residents of Granada unable to swim, Ferdinand relies mainly on tourists or expats for business.

Ferdinand teaches us some basic knots

Time to practice

Doing some self-study back at the Oasis hostel

On our final day, the winds have picked up even further and Ferdinand recommends that we postpone the course until tomorrow. We are now on a fairly tight schedule to get to Guatemala City to take a flight to Tikal (location of Mayan ruins, northern Guatemala) so after some discussion we decide to rig the boat and give it a go today (postponing only if absolutely necessary). Sailing is good for the first hour and we manage to get some practice tacking and jibing. When we consider practicing man-over-board rescue the wind takes over (we later find out that the winds rank at Force 6 on the Beaufort scale and the waves are close to 2 metres) - these are advanced sailing conditions! Naturally there were no photographs taken during these exciting times (main goal: not to capsize). We persist another while, until completely exhausted we return to shore for a much needed rest. We have learned a lot over the past few days and feel that we have a good understanding of the basics of sailing. We celebrate our completion of the course with a quesillo (tortilla with cheese and sour cream) and a smoothie.

Certified to sail - note my capability dealing with 'heavy' wind conditions! ;-)

Unfortunately this course is not accredited by the Royal Yachting Association (RYA) in the UK, although much of the content runs parallel with the RYA's Competent Crew course (which as far as I know, is necessary in order to gain crewing opportunities in the UK or Ireland). Needless to say, we enjoyed this course immensely, learned a lot and feel we made the right decision to stay in Granada for a few extra days. Both Irina and myself feel sure that will be back in a boat quite soon upon our return to Europe.

Sunset over Lago Nicaragua

Sybaritism

2009-05-31T13:17:00.000-07:00

Sybaritism is a love of luxury and delight. This is the word that best sums up my first week in Granada. The week can be divided into sections by pleasures, infiltrated with snapshots of daily life in the city.

Exploring the City

There is a rich colonial heritage, seen in the architecture and layout. Granada is commonly nicknamed the "Gran Sultana del Gran Lago" - the Great Sultan of the Great Lake.

Guadalupe, the most desired place to be wedd in Granada

Calle Calzado, the hub of touristy Granada

Main Cathedral

Oasis Hostel, my home during stay in Granada (blue building)

Irina gets to know the city centre

Favourite building near our hostal

Calle Atravesada, where all the Disney takes place

Central Market with Mombacho volcano behind

The streets of Granada are a chaotic hive of activity. People rise at 4/5am (sensible given the heat from 8am onwards). There are skinny, overworked and sickly horses everywhere, and an equal number of people and dogs in a similar state. There are children and elderly sleeping rough. The dogs are uneducated and many snap or snarl. The men are equally uneducated and many appear to have no respect for women, especially not us of the paler, taller variety. Their comments and actions put me into a state of rage most days - I find these Nica men to be the most intolerable I have come across in the continent of Latin America. From children to wrinkled specimens (minus some more polite exceptions), they shout, grab, leer and sleaze all over us. When Irina and I later come into possession of bikes, they throw eggs and bottles at us in an attempt to get us off our bikes (God only knows what their purpose would be - a girl in our dorm room is attacked one morning at 8am while jogging along the lakefront). It is the men of Granada and the cruelty to humans and animals alike that make me want to leave this city as soon as possible...and if it was not for this sailing course I would have left already! People are extremely poor (the average wage being less that 4 dollars per day), and I entirely sympathise with their misfortunes and will support any cause that aims to pull these people our of poverty. However, cruelty and bad manners are things that I cannot tolerate. On our bikes, dogs snap at our heels and we learn that the only way to prevent getting bitten (and the last thing one wants is to get bitten by one of these diseased dogs) is to pick up a large rock and pretend to throw it at the dog in "the only language they understand".

Health

We find Pure, a natural health and fitness centre who offer a variety of classes including yoga and pilates. Getting good value for money, we attend a minimum of one class per day! The staff are lovely and our yoga teacher is fantastic. I particularly like the morning that she asked us to move our body as if we were a spoon scooping out the dregs of the peanut butter jar. I'll let you use your imagination!

Pure Health Centre

There is an African Desert Tortoise living at the centre, named Snoopy (he knows his name!). In the morning at dawn, the ducks in the garden shout good-morning to us while we practice our Downward Dog! At the end of the week I indulge in two hours of absolute indulgence consisting of reflexology, acupuncture and a full body massage. At about a quarter of the price I might pay at home I cannot resist. I feel I am walking on air for the remainder of the day.

Dancing Salsa

On a tiled terrace overlooking the central plaza and cathedral, we have a private salsa in the evenings. We are slowly getting better and now know the basics! Adam has managed to injure Irina by stamping on her toes, kicking her shin and yanking her arm out of socket. Given that Irina is accident-prone and Adam is accident-provoking, the result is not too unexpected. In Cafe Nuit there is a live band every night, here we practice our new steps along side locals and gringos alike. I bump into a boy from Sligo, the only other Irish backpacker I have met in Central America. He gives me a big friendly Irish hug!

Irina & our fantastic teacher show us the moves

Practising El Tercer Paso!

What a location to learn salsa!

My dance partner for the evening & myself cannot stop laughing (mainly about how long my arms are compared to his!)

Irina + Adam = Accident

Aah that´s how it goes....

Happy ladies after a night of dancing at Cafe Nuit
Irina taking part in salsa lesson at the beautiful Hotel Con Corazon
Elaine needs to find a taller dance partner.....(no chance in Nicaragua)
Our fan club, Hotel Con Corazon

Watersports

Laguna de Apoyo is 48-square kilometer laguna set in the crater of the Apoyo volcano (situated between Granada and Masaya) and boasts the cleanest water in Nicaragua. The water is incredibly clean and turquoise in colour. We set off on a daytrip to a resort called the Crater's Edge where there are hammocks & chairs dotted around a terrace looking over the beautiful laguna. We have a peaceful day of swimming, reading and kayaking. Something happens each time Irina and I get into a canoe or a kayak, we just cannot stop giggling!

Kayaking on Laguna de Apoyo

Snoozing beside the Laguna

After the others leave, Irina and I decide spend Sunday morning sailing around Las Isletas at the Velago Nicaragua. Ferdinand Hoffer is our host and the owner of the sailing school. We meet in the morning at eight am and set out on Elizabeth, a Gruben jolly boat (17 ft). Ferdinand, an Austrian chap who has been wandering back and forth to Nicaragua for the past 10 years. following his dream of creating the first sailing school in Central America.

Las Isletas is an archipelago of 365 volcanic islands situated 3 kilometers from the centre of Granada on the Cocibolga lake (Lago Nicaragua). We are amazed by how many of the islands are inhabited (most of which are owned by rich Nicaraguans or foreigners who visit a few days per year). We have a lovely morning, learning a little about tacking, jibing and putting up the head sail. Ferdinand is good company, and is full of information about the local history and culture. After some lunch in town, we return to the centre and head off on a three-hour kayaking trip around the islands with Oscar (who was born and reared on one of the islands). We kayak through the narrow canals that divide islands and admire a fortification of XIX century, which is on San Pablo Island, and briefly stop at an island hosting a monkey-colony. At one point we consider turning back when the wind picks up and the torrential rain begins, but we push onwards and the bad weather passes quickly. We both decide that this has been one of our favourite days in Granada (and having read the above paragraphs you can see the level of enjoyment has been high). At the end of the day we chat further and discuss the possibility of extending our stay to do some more sailing and perhaps take part in a course....?

Elizabeth

The walkway

Ferdinand

Looking back over Granada

San Pablo island

Oscar, so sweet and shy!

Defense fort on San Pablo

Black clouds begin to appear, the winds pick up & the rain appears

Monkey on Monkey Island

Sit-on-top canoe

Guard-dog on one of the islands

Surely not.....

Oscar sports a t-shirt that says "Mr.Miniblind"

Does this gap in the clouds lead to heaven?

Sunset

Shopping

Irina and I take a local bus to the neighbouring city of Masaya. We arrive a peak time for the local market. The stench of rotting and shit is wretch-provoking. It certainly is an experience to walk through. Rubbish and mud stick to our flip-flops. People with warts all over their body walk by. Men with huge wooden carts laden with goods strain to pass. Everywhere there are filthy, maimed or skinless dogs and boney children. We continue on to the the Old Market which is calmer, cleaner and geared towards tourists. I buy a hammock for the garden I imagine having in the future. On the return to Granada, we pass a horse with a broken leg limping across the main highway. I feel sick at the sight.

It is sooooo hot!

Local "school buses"

Note how much taller I am than the average Nica!

Guess how many hammocks we purchased?!

Eating

The Garden Cafe is my favourite place to have lunch. On the menu there is a love story about an American and a Nicaraguan who fell in love and dreamt about opening a coffee shop inside a restored Colonial building, with a beautiful garden and terrace. This cafe is their reality and the garden inspires me to dream about having my own beautiful garden one day.

The Garden Cafe

El Tercer Ojo (the third eye) is a wonderful place to have dinner. They serve a white fish called dorado with a beautiful garlic and white wine sauce.

El Tercer Ojo (well my blog would not be my blog without eating pictures!)

"El Tercer Ojo" - The third eye

The typical breakfast in Costa Rica and Guatemala is Gallo Pinto; rice, beans, eggs and plantain. It is enormous and will fill you up until dinner time!

Gallo Pinto or "Plato Tipico"

There are fantastic smoothies all over the city for little more than a dollar. We visit a place called Nectar and order a goat´s cheese salad what we are given is a plate of cucumber and green peppers with one teeny-weeny (penny-sized) lump of cheese. Naturally we complain and the waitress shrugs her shoulders, that is how we serve it. Adam finds a hair in his curry. After much discussion with the manager, we manage to get a discount. I have had a number of instances with Nicas where I have not been happy with a service provided (mainly food related, but also when shopping and at the beauty salon). However, I have found complaining or sharing constructive crticism a fruitless exercise here resulting in verbal aggression, accusations or other kinds of emotional outbursts. So now I don´t bother, and my fingers are crossed for quality every time I pay for something.

Eskimo is the Nica brand of ice-cream and it is rather delicious. I cannot decide whether coffee-flavour is my favourite so I buy another the following day, just to be sure..

Caught in the act with an Eskimo ice-cream

It has been a very busy week, but hungry to learn how to sail, Irina and I decide to stay in Granada for three more days.