Wednesday 31 December 2008

Sipping 40s in Buenos Aires, Argentina

The taxi drive from Ezieza airport, to downtown Buenos Aires is very pleasant. The skies are blue, the city is every bit as attractive as I had imagined. We are beyond tiredness and giddy with excitement!! 
Irina, my travel companion for the next 4 weeks

We arrive at Azcuenaga, next to Recoleta where we are staying with the family of my friend, Pali (more introductions later). We have not met the family before, yet they welcome us into their home with hospitality and generosityWe scrub up, and eat some Milanesa (breaded meat fillet). 

First stroll in Buenos Aires
In the afternoon, Marta, the charming Lady of House, draws us a plan and suggested walk around the south of the city. I buy a sim card for my phone, and then we set off in search of Freddo (a famous Argentine ice-cream chain) for some dulce de leche ice-cream (which relieves all jet-lag symptoms temporarily!). 

Freddo!
Aside from Santa Fe, the other streets are relatively quiet - lots of people get out of the city at this time of year - there are many green areas, huge old trees, attractive architecture, pretty boulevards, coffee shops and designer clothes shops are plentiful (this is a posh part of town).  

Lots of green areas and attractive squares

Back at the apartment we chat to Marta & Carolina (Pali's younger sister), whilst drinking some fine Irish whiskey! When our eyes begin to droop mid-conversation, Marta promptly orders us to bed!!

A day in Recoleta
After a night's sleep (with a mosquito), we set off to explore the local neighbourhood of Recoleta in more detail. First, we wander through the streets and alleys of the Cemetery of the Recoleta - pausing at Evita Peron's family (Duarte) masoleum, which is very crowded with tour groups
The various styles of architecture and burial structures are imaginative and interesting to explore. It is a blissful 27 degrees in the city today, although the midday sun is a little too warm for us gringos so we enjoy a couple of hours of people-watching and drinking coffee on a nearby shaded terrace.
Cafe on the Terrace
We do not expect to find red telephone boxes!

Next, we go to the Centro Cultural Recoleta where there is a large and varied exhibition of paintings, scupltures and installations from Argentine artists.  The gallery is divided into 10 provinces, and each room displays artwork from that particular location, e.g. La Pampa, Tierra del Fuego.
The style, media, subject matter and quality vary from piece to piece.....There are many vibrant paintings, clad with primary colours and passion!









The building is light and airy, and the mood in the gallery is tranquil and easy-going. Not so is the Museo de los Bellas Artes. where we meander next. There are many rules - no water, no photos, stand behind the line and the security men regularly bark orders at us. However, the collection is impressive, and we spend some time in the current exhibition of modern Argentine art, "Latitudes: maestros latinoamericanos en la colección FEMSA".


Museo de los Bellas Artes
Nearby, in the Design Centre a cat finds a warm place to have a nap
A lone shoe

This evening we are feeling more energetic, so we go out to a (recommended) restaurant called Milion. The dishes consist of locally produced ingredients with a modern twist. 
An interesting butter mousse
Trout with quinoa caviar & crunchy vegtables
Dorado with cornbread 

On the way home, we stop by The Shamrock for a couple of beers during happy hour. Exhausted by midnight, we tumble into bed.

Next morning, our alarm fails to sound at the requested time of 5.30 am. Luckily Irina wakes up minutes before taxi arrives. This time we are headed to Aeroparque, the airport which serves domestic flights. 

Today is New Year's Eve and we are headed for Bariloche, Patagonia!

Tuesday 30 December 2008

Dancing, climbing & praying in Sligo, build-up to Buenos Aires

December 23rd
After a day's hill-walking, I catch up with Olwyn and Roisin at The Clarence (club) where there is some interesting jungle music. 
Elaine, Rosin (the fairy) & Olwyn
Christmas Eve 
Begins with a memorial mass for my Grandparents and Uncle Tony. Shopping (browsing). Pub (hot port). More browsing. Shops are packed, apparently Tesco has run out of turkeys and streaky bacon. Pub (mulled wine). Party at Breda's apartment - I get told I look 'youthful for my age'! Midnight mass & Carol service. Tea and mince pies at home by the fire.

Christmas Day
I sleep until midday (unheard of!). Long walk at Rosses Point, watch the charity swim and decide that a dip in the Atlantic on the 25th December may induce terrible pre-travel illness, so stay dry ashore. Visit the delightful Doreen and Betty Crown, my Grandmother's cousins, in Strandhill. Back home we indulge in a couple of Bloody Mary's, eat a wonderful traditional dinner, our first Christmas day with just the two of us. We don't really have a routine - each year our Christmas has been quite different. Snooze and rest for the remainder of the day. Santa (Clause) was very practical this year - thermals, hiking socks & dollars!
Rosses Point beach, Sligo
'Jumping Jacks' to keep warm!

Rosses Point promenade
St.Stephen's (Boxing) Day
Another amazing sleep (it is so peaceful here). Feeling refreshed, we climb Knocknarea, mince pies and a flask of mulled wine in tow. Visit Mim. More turkey. Then we hit the town. A very fun night - many reunions!

Mother is happy on her bi-annual pilgrimage
Silliness on top of the mountain
Hot port & mince pies :-)
Traditional Irish stone wall
Happy Cows
December 27th
An Irish fry-up for breakfast. Tremendous rush to leave the house by 9am. Icy roads, slow drive. Chaos at Knock airport, Ryanair ladies have been replaced with middle-aged men in wooley-jumpers. Flight delayed. Arrive in Luton, no trains to West Hampstead (WH). Train to King's Cross, eventually onward train to WH. Rooms a mess, need to pack. All packed, superfluous goods donated, remainder binned. Room clean. Run to station, aaargh no Jubilee or Metropolitan line! Rail replacement bus to Baker Street, get wrong tube, miss train from Victoria, aaargh. Wait for an hour in Victoria, icicles appear on my eyelashes. 19.03pm train to Faversham, meet Sam. Drinks with friends. Almost miss the train to Whitstable, run like the wind, train at platform. Make it with seconds to spare. Arrive at Whitstable, nice walk home. Lovely evening chatting and laughing. Broken sleep, but my lovely hotwater bottle keeps me warm :-)

December 28th
Wake early, eyes do not function, breakfast. Rail engineering works, drive to Sittingbourne. Watery goodbyes, followed by a teary journey back to London. Pull myself together! Last minute organising. Spill glass of Berocca (orange vitamin drink) on white fleece 5 mins before scheduled departure time! Vanish! Taxi to Heathrow. Meet Irina, my worldly possessions have been whittled down to 14.5kg (plus hand luggage!). Hassle at check-in with immigration, names, seats, and then I am chosen for a 'random security check' before boarding the plane -step-by-step security take out every item from my hand luggage (a tightly packed 25 litres)! Plane delayed,  but we are headed for JFK New York, then Buenos Aires!! I am quite grumpy and the (lovely) New Yorker beside me is chatty and wants to make friends. I just want to sleep....wrap up in blanket, eye mask, flight socks, ear plugs......at last, peace!!

The first chapter of my South American adventures is about to begin! An exciting conversation over a glass of wine on a Tuesday evening with Adam (my friend & soon-to-be travel companion) has materialised! Despite all the wonderful things in my life in London, there is all-consuming fire in my belly to travel! This is something I need to do for me, and I have inclining that I will grow as person having done so.

Right, no more talking, must sleep....currently suspended 10365 metres above the Atlantic Ocean, with 2.52 hours remining until we reach JFK.....

Thursday 25 December 2008

Rough Itinerary for South and Central America Trip

December 28th - Buenos Aires, Argentina (Elaine & Irina)
December 31st -Bariloche 
January 4th - La Pampa (Horse ranch - meet Pali)
January 9th - Buenos Aires (meet Adam)
January 12th - El Calafate, Fitz Roy, El Chalten, Glaciers National Park
January 20th - Torres del Paine, Chile (Irina to London)
February 1st - Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego
February - Mendoza, Santiago, Uruguay, Iguazu Falls, Brazil
March - Brazil (Sao Paulo, Rio, Salvador), Bolivia (Adam to Peru, Elaine to meet Sarah, La Paz)
April - Ecuador, Columbia, boat trip to Panama
May - Costa Rica, Guatemala, Mexico
June - Mexico, Las Vegas, Los Angeles
June 19th - Fly to London (Elaine)

Places that I would love to visit (but not sure if all will be possible on this trip)......
Antartica
Easter Island
Galapagos Islands
Cuba

To-Bring List for South America

(Although general rule is bring less stuff & more money!)

Essentials
65 Litre Rucksack 
Day pack, small shoulder bag
Silk sleeping bag liner & pillow
Wallet & body pouch
Money, visa & bank cards– US dollars, some local currency
PADI license for diving, driver's license for car hire
Passport, tickets, printed (rough) itinerary for immigration, travel insurance details, passport photos, injections certificate (NB* Yellow Fever)
Addresses/emergency contact details saved to laptop 
First-aid kit (syringes, antacids, re-hydration sachets, anti-diarrhoea pills, antihistamines, plasters, multi-vitamins, antibiotics, citronella, tea-tree and Propolis tablets
Deet (50%) – insect repellent
Anti-bacterial hand gel
Water purification & iodine tablets
Suncream
Ear plugs
Giant travel towel
Clothes line & clothes wash
Universal sink plug
Travel adaptor 
Toothbrush with anti-bacterial cap, (a couple) of toiletries!
Ziplock bags, Swiss army knife, torch, duct tape
Wet-wipes & tissues

Little Extras
Contact cards & photos to show people along the way
Playing cards 
Pocket map of Ireland & Great Britain

Electrical
Laptop, cable, protective case, external hard-drive for back-up & blank DVDs
Phone & charger
Camera, charger, case & spare battery pack(s)
iPod & cable

Footwear
Flip-flops
Merrell strap-on sandals
Gortex hiking boots

Clothes
Microfleece
Gortex lightweight jacket
Hooded North Face jacket for cold weather
Thermal base layer (long sleeve top & leggings)
2 Rohan short sleeve t-shirts, 1 long-sleeve top (breathable, light-weight & quick-drying)
2 pairs of Rohan trousers (1 hiking, 1 straight-leg)
Jeans
3 summer dresses/tops
Bikini
4 pairs of hiking socks
Rain poncho
Sunglasses
Sports bra & underwear (synthetic)

Wednesday 24 December 2008

Lough Gill, Co. Sligo & Co. Leitrim


Before setting off to Argentina on the 28th of December, I am spending a few days at home in Sligo, north-western Ireland. 

Making the most of the dry weather and scenic countryside, we set out towards Lough Gill and Parke's Castle, and on to to Fivemilebourne. This is the area where I spent the happiest days of my childhood - wandering the hills with my loyal companion, Henry (an Irish Red Setter). For me, this landscape represents freedom - from all constraints throughout my life. A place of retreat.

We set out along the R286

Parke's Castle
My Mother, and fellow wanderer





The house where my Grandfather was born, where my Mum and her siblings were reared, and where I spent a great deal of time as a child. The veneer of the house has changed significantly since the new owners took over. I can honestly say this is the only building in the world that I feel somewhat attached to...

The new residents
Lough Doon, near our family home
  We loop back down to Lough Gill and admire the everchanging view...


Lough Gill - inspiration for W.B.Yeats and the location of  the Lake Isle of Innisfree


Cloths of Heaven
Had I the heavens' embroidered cloths,
Enwrought with golden and silver light,
The blue and the dim and the dark cloths
Of night and light and the half-light,
I would spread the cloths under your feet:
But I, being poor, have only my dreams;
I have spread my dreams under your feet;
Tread softly because you tread on my dreams.

-W.B.Yeats

Wishing everyone a happy, healthy and peaceful Christmas and New Year!