Happy Birthday, Mum!

The end of my travels intentionally corresponds with my Mum's 60th birthday (I'm sure she won't mind me telling her age, she certainly doesn't look it!). Delighted to be home in Sligo, I bring her up breakfast-in-bed at the break of dawn so that she is fuelled for another day of her financial accounting course. Thank goodness she is occupied for the day, it gives me time to ensure that all is in order for her surprise birthday party. This is something I have been planning for a while, in fact, ideas were beginning to crystallise when I was in Argentina six months ago. I am so excited, it is really hard to keep it a secret, especially during the final hours!

Mum gets back from her course. I tell her that I am popping down to see my friend Róisín and wish her a nice evening. Of course, I've got my glad-rags in my handbag along with heels, confetti & party poppers. Mervian picks me up from around the corner, she is bursting with excitement like myself. She has been a fantastic support over the past few months (and always!), doing the run-around while I shout orders from another continent!

Breda is working her magic by inviting Mum out for dinner at 8 o' clock. Upon pick-up she informs Mother that first it is necessary to collect Rod (her partner) out in Strandhill after his game of golf. Hmm, all sounds plausible.

At the venue, I am thrilled to see familiar faces arriving. I have butterflies in my tummy, giddy at the thought that my Mum has no idea! Irina and I dash around filling glasses and sprinkling little drops of stardust on all the tables. Next we get the nod from Rod, 'she's close, less than 5 minutes'. 'AAargh!'We all shriek and giggle! Right Vinnie, you are on the lights. Kevin, are you ready with the music? Has everyone got their poppers ready? On the count of three...one..... two (there is a shadow under the door).... three..........SURPRISE!!!!!!!!!

And her face? Priceless!!

Oh my GOD!!!

Mum then proceeds to go through a series of emotions. Shock, wonder, excitement, delight and gratitude. She really had no idea that there would be a party. She had no idea that she would see (almost all of) her nearest and dearest in one room. Modest as ever, she couldn't believe the 'fuss' that everyone had gone to! She was in such shock when she walked through those doors that she actually (subconsciously) pinched my auntie Olivia's arm, leaving a bruise! It is as if to say 'are you real? Is this really happening?'!!

The party is fabulously fun! We chat, dance, eat and drink, and then dance some more. It is exactly how parties should be - a joyous event where everyone is having fun and laughter fills the room. We dance until our faces glow red and the music stops.

Mum has been thanking me every day since, but really the party was my way of thanking her - for being the warm, consistent, loving, adventurous and inspirational Mum that she is.

I've been doing lots of yoga over the past few months and one of the poses (asanas) is called 'extended mountain pose'. It is not difficult, and basically involved standing legs hip-width apart, arms stretched high and wide above one's head, eyes wide-open looking up at the sky. One day in Central America a teacher asked us to visualise the following:

Imagine the soles of your feet connected to the soils of the earth, keeping you grounded and connected to Mother Nature. Imagine your feet growing roots, keeping you stable and strong. Standing tall and proud, you are a tree extending upwards, heart open, reaching up to the skies. You are open to all possibilities, you believe all your dreams will come true and that there are no limitations. Inside your heart, there is a centre of light, from here you can beam your light and love out to the world.

I thought of my Mum when I heard this visualisation, and now every time I do this pose I think of my her - strong and rooted in practicality but yet always believing in the endless possibilities of life and always lighting my way with her wisdom.

So, happy birthday Mum! I wish you health, happiness and peace. Thank YOU for everything.

Chelsea Physic Garden, London

During my two-week stopover in London, I visit the Chelsea Physic Garden. Situated in the heart of London, this 'Secret Garden' is described on the information booklet as 'a centre of education, beauty and relaxation'. Founded in 1673 by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries, it continues to research the properties, origins and conservation of over 5000 species. The garden has somewhat unusual opening hours which makes it more challenging to visit, especially if one is working.

The Blue Plaque (one of over 700 in London identifying places where famous & distinguished folks have lived or worked - see Nick Rennison's The London Blue Plaque Guide)

An impression made in Victorian times of the 'demonstration' of medicinal plants in the Chelsea Physic Garden

The Chelsea Physic Garden was founded in 1673, as the Apothecaries' Garden, with the purpose of training apprentices in identifying plants. The location was chosen as the proximity to the river created a warmer microclimate allowing the survival of many non-native plants - such as the largest outdoor fruiting olive tree in Britain - and more importantly, to allow plants to survive harsh British winters. The river was also important as a transport route that linked the garden to other open spaces such as Putney Heath, facilitating easy movements of both plants and botanists.

I imagine one of these chopped up in my dinner..

In 1876 the Garden enlarged its educational aspirations by deciding to run a lecture course for young women who were training as botany teachers. At the end of the 19th century the trustees of the City Parochial Foundation agreed to take over the running of the Garden from the Society of Apothecaries. In 1983 The Garden became a registered charity and open to the general public for the first time.

Agapanthus

The Chelsea Physic Garden has developed a major role in public education focusing on the renewed interest in natural medicine. The Garden of World Medicine which is Britain's first garden of ethnobotany (or the study of the botany of different ethnic groups and indigenous peoples) is laid out together with a new Pharmaceutical Garden.

The Garden of World Medicine is an ethnobotanical display that demonstrates the uses of plants by a wide variety of peoples. Here you will find plants used medicinally by the North American Indians, the Maori from New Zealand, Australian Aboriginals, Chinese, in temperate parts of India (Ayurvedic medicine), by tribal peoples of Southern Africa as well as in our own folk traditions of Northern Europe and the Mediterranean. This is not a garden of proven medical remedies, rather one that looks at the uses of plants for medicinal purposes within each culture concerned and their own views about what constitutes healing. However, in each bed you will find a plant which has been taken up and proved effective by controlled medical trials. For me, this is the most fascinating section of the garden.

Currently undergoing research as a possible treatment for cancer & HIV

There is a beautiful cafe with wonderful-looking salads, fresh lemonade and other exciting delights. I am feeling a little naughty, deciding to sample the orange and polenta cake served with crème fraîche. Delicious! Looking around, I appear to be the youngest visitor by about fifty years!

Guilty pleasures

Afterwards, I sit on the lawn and read a book in the sunshine - all in all, a very pleasant afternoon!

My Glastonbury 2009

Safely back in London, it is time for me to prepare for the next big event in my social calendar - the Glastonbury Festival of Contemporary Performing Arts, commonly abbreviated to Glastonbury or Glasto. It is the largest greenfield music and performing arts festival in the world - best known for its contemporary music, but also features dance, comedy, theatre, circus, cabaret and many other arts.

I bought the ticket towards the end of last year, not quite sure knowing what state of mind I might be in after 6 months of travelling in Latin America, but I figured it would be something fun to look forward to.

Sam is chief organiser and has cleverly rented a camper van. Parked up in the family camper van section is a breath of (almost) fresh air compared to the other tent-only campsites. The rest of the happy campers include Sam's father, Martyn, his four brothers; Hedgie (good Jonathan), Alex and Lewis, cousin Pippi and her boyfriend (bad) Jonathan, and Sam's school-friend, Will (Herrington-boy).

I travel to Worthy Farm in Somerset aboard a National Express non-air conditioned coach along with Pippi and (bad) Jonathan (who discover along the way that they are not travel-compatible!). The journey from London Victoria to the farm takes about four hours and given that the sun is blazing, we are a little warm. The Italian chap beside me keeps offering his shoulder as a headrest, telling me that he would be very grateful! I force myself out of sleepiness to avoid the awkwardness and instead quiz him on his Glasto knowledge, this year is his 20th anniversary of attendance. We pass the heritage site of Stonehenge on route.

Stonehenge

The first hurdle we cross at Glastonbury, is the 5-mile trek from Entrance A (coach drop-off point) to Exit C (location of fellow happy campers and camper van). Navigation with the pathetic map we've been given is nearly impossible!

Jonathan takes his hat off to the Glasto-organisers

Part of the grasslands has been cordoned off, preventing us from crossing to meet up with the others (bloomin' Maximo Park wrecking our plans!). I quickly realise that my phone will be about as much good dropped down a portaloo as it is in my handbag (no signal, and quite shortly afterwards, no battery). After a quick re-jig of plans, Sam and Will manage to rescue us and lead us up the 'hill of death'. What a view!

Walking down the hill of death!

Our very respectable camp, equipped with 5 tents & a camper van

My temporary home laden with all Glasto-essentials

The shocking thing about Glastonbury for me is the sheer size and volume of people and acts - sprawling across 900 acres, with 190,00 attendees, 50 stages and over 1000 acts..

One of the main campsites, near the Pyramid stage

There are many options for food & drinks - noodles, crepes, Indian, Chinese, tofu, goat curry, sushi, Caribbean, Mexican etc.

With more bands & artists than one can imagine....

This evening is about becoming oriented with the site and stages, especially relaxing around the Queen's Head listening to folk-type music such as Liz Green. It is becoming clear that with most phones not functioning that coordinating our group of nine (with different musical tastes) through crowds of people is quite a challenge.

Myself, Will, Pippi & Bad Jonathan

Black clouds loom, soon the rain pours down

This evening the rain begins, Pippi and I take shelter with hot chocolate in hand.

Looking out at the downpour

And with rain, the mud follows....

The highlight for me this evening is bopping along to East 17, my all-time favourite band during my late childhood years. I am amazed that I remember all the words, clearly a true fan!

East 17, in the blurry distance

The word around the site is that Michael Jackson is dead. It is quite common for wild rumours to spread through festivals so we are not quite sure whether to believe it. The late evening is spent in the Pussy Parlour where Billy Nasty throws out a dubstep set.

On Friday morning, we are woken by the baking sunshine. Hedgie (good ) Jonathan crawls out of his oven-like tent and collapses on the grass where it is mildly cooler!

Hedgie, fast asleep on the grass on Friday morning

This morning is spent wildly chasing the elusive goose that is the health centre. There is something in the air here that has really triggered off my asthma - with all my wheezing and gasping I manage to sleep very little. Eventually a medical centre is located, I see a doctor, get a prescription and I'm given directions to an on-site pharmacy situated on top of a hill on the other side of the site (Grrr). I arrive a wheezy mess and almost hug the lady who gives me a new inhaler. Deep breaths, then time to reunite with the rest of the troops at Regina Spektor.

The New Yorker, Regina Spektor, is an artist I had forgotten about since university and was pleasantly surprised by this re-discovery (especially the songs Us and Samson). Then, it is time for Icelandic singer, Emiliana Torrini in The Park. Her sweet voice is who I listened to at the most challenging times during my Master's degree. Sitting up on the hill in the sunshine is very pleasant.

Emiliana Torrini

Stone wall at the entrance to The Park

Sand sculptures in The Park

The Park

Chairs were a good idea afterall...

It all gets a bit too much for Will!

Emiliana Torrini plays on The Park stage

Before the rain!

Cannot rest too long, it's time for Lily Allen. Looking very purple and glittery, she wears a white glove in respect for Michael Jackson. She sings her 'F*£$ you', anti-establishment song, which sends most of the crowd crazy shoving two fingers in the air to the government. I find this very strange!

Lily on Pyramid - the audience making rude gestures

Then, over to Jazz World for The Streets, picking up a grilled Hallumi wrap on the way (yum!). The performance is quite mundane, but we have seats at the District 66 bar which keeps any complaints at bay!

Sunset over Jazz World

They play the classic, Dry your Eyes, which makes me a little more forgiving of their performance. We stop off in the comedy tent and a familiar comedian is on the stage. Last year Sam and I went to the Edinburgh Comedy Festival and went to see this guy's act, however, the fire alarm went off in the middle of a joke, we evacuated the building and the performance was abandoned. So, it is incredible that we walk into the comedy tent just in time to hear the punchline of the same joke and the rest of the act! Talk about perfect timing.

Half the act viewed in Edinburgh, the other at Glastonbury!

Then, we get our first taste of the wonders and strange occurences of Trash City. Hard to explain, but basically full of weird and wacky folk, fireballs, helicopters and pinball machines.

Sam watches the antics of Trash City

The grand opening of Trash City

Brief stop at the Ladybird Circus on the way back to camp

It is easy to get up on a Saturday morning when you know that Ralf Harris is singing songs in the sunshine. I feel a wave of emotion pass through me as he sings Two Little Boys.

Pretty Flags around Jazz World

Practical flags (Lewis is here)

Will religiously applies the Factor 50 & still manages to get burned!

Enough nostalgic childhood memories of Tie me kangaroo down sport and we are off to the Lancashire Hotpots. Witty and entertaining, well worth going to see. It is ridiculously hot outside, so we seek shade inside the Avalon Cafe where more acoustic stuff plays.

Avalon Cafe, a haven of calm & cool

Capturing the crowd

Sam resting his feet between gigs

WHERE ARE YOU? The most frequently asked question of the festival for those with functional phones (mainly T-mobile it seems!). Answers range include; I'm to the left of Pyramid. I'm under the England flag. I'm in the Pussy Parlour. Other common phrases or exclamations inlcude; Eeeew, that was soooo disgusting. Oh my God, it smells so badly here. How can people be so disgusting? These comments are generally but not exclusively related to portaloo discussions.

Pippi shows us the effects of dry shampoo!

This afternoon gets a bit more lively with the much-hyped, much-anticipated La Roux playing over in the Dance Village. I enjoy the set, and the song Fascination is certainly growing on me! Bulletproof is still my favourite..."this time baby...I'll be bulletproof", very catchy!

La Roux

In the crowd I get separated from the others while The Qemists play. I listen to some of Deadmau5, and then make my way over to Kasabian. At which point I realise that I no longer have my ticket (needed for entering and exiting our campsite). After a flash of panic I decide to retrace my footsteps through the still-mucky grounds and miraculously about fifteen minutes later I see a small folded white paper - my ticket!

I find my ticket right beside this posterboard (note rubbish levels on the ground!)

I wander back to the Pyramid stage for Kasabian, and then over to the Other stage for Pendulum - both bands give amazing performances and there is a great atmosphere in the audience.

These young lovers passionately kiss before the crowds pile in for Pendulum

Rocking out at Pendulum

The feeling of listening to wonderful music while watching the sunset is incredible

Making my way back to the Dance Village

No rain this evening over the festival

Back at the Dance Village I bump into Sam, Lewis and Will - just in time for Eric Prydz. Good fun, but not quite as much fun as 2 many DJs!! This is the best gig of the festival for me, I simply do not want the music to stop! With mixes of MGMT, Michael Jackson, Eurythmics, The Gossip.......it is just incredible.

The grand finale, 2 Many DJs

Sunday morning begins with 6 day riot, who I have never hear of but I enjoy a great deal. There is a rush to get over to Dance West for Goldfish, the South African duo whom Adam introduced me to a couple of years ago. I like the fact that they play instruments live during their DJ sets.

Goldfish

A little too early on a Sunday morning for more dance music, it is time to sit on the grass and listen to Emmy the Great and Amadou and Mariam. Later, Will and I head over to see the Cuban band, Orquesta Aragón. We eat some delicious Goan fish curry, drink some pear cider and giddily dash over to see the Yeah Yeah Yeahs (great costumes but not such an exciting show).

Then it's time for...Madness!! Baggy Trousers, House of Love and Wings of a Dove - what fun to sway and sing along to!

Madness

Lewis (with Hedgie in stripes) during Madness

Will + Pear Cider = Bad idea

Next, it is time for the Noisettes, London Electricity and Mr.Scruff. For me, the question of whether to see The Prodigy or Blur is curbed when somehow I end up passing out on my way to the toilet and land up on a stretcher bed in the Glasto emergency medical tent...the mystery remains as to what actually happened. After four hours of teeth grinding, seizures, hallucinations and paranoia under the supervision of the medical team and drinking pints of water, I begin to come around. About 2am I make my way back to camp, wrapped in a survival blanket, and try to explain to the others what happened. There is talk of drink spiking. Having looked into the symtoms, it appears that it was some kind of amphetamine. Those four hours were, without doubt, the most scary few hours of my life. I remember crying and crying, beggin the medics to make it go away. Without a phone, there is no way to contact anyone. The rain is torrential tonight, leaving the grounds looking like a mud-bath once more.

On Monday, we are all up by 6am. I am still feeling quite weak and wobbly after the terrible occurences of the night before. The boys and the van speed off to join the 15-mile tailback of vehicles leaving the festival. I later learn that on route to Exeter the rear window literally pops out of the van, smashing into smithereens. How on earth did that happen? Myself, Pippi and Jonathan are hoping that we can hop onto one of the earlier coaches back to London (we currently have tickets for the midday). No such luck, we have no choice but to laze about in the sunshine, reading our Glastonbury 'Review' and wallowing in our festival odours. Considering the constant reminders of 'Love the farm, leave no trace' I cannot believe the rubbish. There are fields filled with abandoned tents, wellys, cans, cups, food, cigarette butts, clothes, shoes and torches. It is unimaginable how this farm will return to luscious pastures anytime soon.

Glastonbury abandoned once more

After a slight detour on the coach to avoid traffic, we eventually return to Victoria. Back to London and the heatwave of 2009 (last one 2003 apparently!).

So, in review here is my list of yays and boos of my first Glastonbury.

The Yays.

Sunshine. Seeing Sam & co. Drinking hot chocolate with cream and flake under a shelter while the rains pours down. 2 Many DJs. Crepe with butter, sugar and lemon. The choice of amazing music. Standing at the top of the Hill of Death. Sitting on top of the camper van with an even better view. Nice people. Goan fish curry. Emiliana Torrini. Mr. Scruff. Babywipes. Pear cider. Free stuff. Welly boots (as comfy as slippers!). East 17's Alright. Dry shampoo. Pretty flags (all colours of the rainbow) and practical flags (e.g. Lewis is here). Fancy dress - makes it much easier to spot friends in the crowds. Tiger (the adorable 18-month baby next door) waving at us, giggling and singing 'ee-eye ee-eye oh'!

The Boos.

Ending up with Glasto medics, twice. Rain. Mud. Poo and portaloos. Phones without signal or battery. Climbing the Hill of Death at least twice a day. Clashes between great bands. The smell of other people's pear cider vomit. Walking miles to see bands. Sore feet. Not meeting up with friends due to lack of phone. Catching a glimpse of onself in one of the rare portaloos with a mirror. 02 phone network (system flooded).

It was fun though! Back next year? ....ah sure, who knows where I'll be?

The Yellow House

La Antigua Guatemala (Old Guatemala) is the place where I spend the last few days of this trip to Latin America. It is a city in the central highlands of Guatemala famous for its well-preserved Spanish Mudéjar-influenced Baroque architecture as well as a number of ruins of colonial churches. It has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

La Merced, featuring Maya lotus flower designs

Central Park, Antigua

The city is full of cafe courtyards

Antigua, Volcan de Agua in the background

Guatemalan Metropolitan Cathedral

Coincidentally Adam arrives on the same day, so Irina and I meet him for a last supper before he heads on to Semuc Champay.

Just like old times in Argentina

We have a tasty meal and walk over to a great bohemian bar, Cafe No Se. On route, I am deeply engaged in conversation with one of our new friends, admiring the colonial buildings across the road when I smack my forehead off one of the protruding stone windowsills. The lump grows and blood pours. Yes, Adam confirms, the windowsill is hard. I ask for an ice-pack inside the bar, I am certainly not the first it seems! I stay for one drink, the rest of the evening is fuzzy.

Days later I revisit the windowsill

Pacaya is one of the world's most active volcanoes. The exciting feature for tourists is the visibility of flowing lava (which some bright sparks have decided to sell marshmallows for toasting upon).

Pacaya Volcano

We are dropped off into the midst of chaos. Boys with horses, children selling sticks and fellow tourists have been offloaded into a small parking lot. Guides run around calling out names, and rounding up groups. We begin the 1.5 hr hike upwards. We pass a white bull and numerous guys offering us a 'taxi' on top of their horse.

The starting point..

Initial blue skies and view of countryside

The ghostly bull

The view for most the hike

Booo to crowds

The texture & shapes of this volcanic rock is incredible

Flowing lava

Giant hot coals!

Marshmallow toasters

We are halfway up when a thick mist drops, creating an eerie feel. Along the way, we realise that we have made a rather silly decision to climb the volcano on Saturday, given the crowds. Later I learn that 400 people climb the volcano this afternoon. There is a mixture of locals and foreigners who are enjoying a weekend free from working or voluntering in Guatemala. For me personally, the crowds really cloud the experience, fighting for a spot near the lava is not what I had imagined. At the top, we wave to Adam across the crowds. Seeing the lava makes it worthwhile, it is pretty cool (can't think of a better word). We return down, the temperature has really dropped, along with the sun. The rain pours, and we slip and slide in the mud all the way back to the bus.

On Sunday, Irina accurately notes that "to chicken bus" is now officially a verb - as in "we chicken bused it to Chichicastenango market today". I like chicken buses - the bright colours, the personalised interior, the party atmosphere created by the pumping Bachata music. However, our journey to Chichi shakes my confidence a tad. On the positive, the speeds clocked ensure that we arrive at the market before most of the other tourists..

No two chicken buses are ever the same...

Chichi market occurs every Sunday and filled with all kinds of wonderful tapestries, weaving, fruit and lots of tat. The market is well-laid out and friendly - it is easy to spend hours wandering around.

Shopping for Jesus, Mary & Joseph

Beautiful jewlery

Chichi market

Best food in town from a street stall

Happy me

For the next couple of days, I fill my hours doing yoga, reading, drinking fresh lemonade and wandering around the occassional church.

Lemonade with fresh mint

The Yellow House provides a wonderful breakfast every morning, best enjoyed on the rooftop terrace in the sunshine overlooking the city.

Breakfast at The Yellow House

On my final morning, I am feeling relaxed and well-rested, ready to begin the slow journey back to Europe.

Tikal: Featuring the ventures of Lord Chocolate

The first wonderful part of visiting the ruins of Tikal is that they are situated deep inside the Guatemalan jungle. The towering structures, peering out from above the canopy are incredible - the tallest of which is over 80 metres (not to be climbed by those with vertigo...unless you are as determined/stubborn as my friend Irina!). The Maya settled here around 700 BC; most likely because of the situation on top of a low hill above swamp ground and an abundance of flint for tools and weapons. Within 200 years, the Maya of Tikal had begun to build stone ceremonial structures, and by 200 BC a complex of buildings stood on the site of the North Acropolis.

La Ceiba

This time we spend more time choosing a guide who is knowledgeable and whom we can understand. It is well worth the effort. I learn many snippets of interesting facts about this ancient civilisation from Chino, our guide: The Maya people celebrate with human and animal sacrifice upon altars. They often held ball games, where the losers would be killed. The importance of numbers to the Maya people is evident throughout their structures and sculptures. Zero was an important number, representing the beginning, the end and the cyclical nature of our lives. They were strong believers in astronomy, using both moon and sun calenders. The moon calender represents nine months, the length of a pregnancy cycle; often there are nine stellae and 9 altars on the site. All the sites are connected by underground catacombs, which they may have used for processions and carnivals. Compared with Copan, Tikal shows very little sculptural work.

My favourite story is of Lord Chocolate (Ah Cacau) who was responsible for initiating a Maya renaissance - restoring the city's military strength and its primacy in the Maya world as the most resplendent city. It was he who is responsible for most of surviving temples around the Great Plaza.

Despite Lord Choc's best efforts Tikal's greatness waned in 900AD, part of the mysterious collapse of lowland Maya civilisation. It wasn't until 1848 that it was rediscovered by a Guatemala expedition.

One of the 'twin' pyramids - with 9 stellae & 9 altars used for ceremonial sacrifice

Bird's eye view of Tikal & the jungle

The tallest temple - a very, very steep climb

Main Plaza - thanks to Lord Chocolate

The Panama hat lives on

The view from these temples are pretty impressive

Chultones, these were essentially holes in the ground used for storing maize, beans and other food. There are 9 of these large 'fridges' around the site.

Chino, our guide showing us one of the Chultones

Tricky steps

There are many different styles - depending on the century when built

Posing under the vast shadow of this monster!

Stucco - a form of white cement used for building

I was surprised to learn that of Guatemala's 13+ million population today, over 60% are indigenous - nearly all of whom are Maya, with a splattering of European and Caribbean influences in the remainder of the population. The Maya are spread throughout the country, but most densely populated around the Highlands.

So far, only 20% of Tikal has been excavated and is open to the public, all of which has been funded by international donations.

The jungle around Tikal is alive with creatures great and small. During our five-hour walk, we see woodpeckers, macaw, a toucan, pizote, shiny green bugs, red and black howler monkeys and a tarantula. We do not see any pumas, jaguars or rattlesnakes unfortunately.

Irina & her eight-legged friendTarantulaPizote

Our time spent around Tikal, is not quite so majestic. Taca Airlines steal all my toiletries, without prior warning and with a rudeness that taunts my temper. The 38 degree heat, and 60% humidity is unbearable - especially when trying to sleep in 6-bed dorm room and only one measly fan. Irina gets attacked my mosquitos, I get annihilated by bed bugs (to such an extent that I visit the local medic to ask if I have chicken pox). Los Amigos, where the infestation has taken place, has a wonderful communal area and great vegetarian food - so we are upset that we are forced to change to another hostel.

We do make one worthy discover however; Hibiscus iced tea! Basically one makes hibiscus tea in the usual way, lets it cool & then blends with ice. It is delicious during these extreme temperatures, and the longer-term benefits include cleansing the kidneys and purifying blood.
We feel the liquid flushing out all those toxins injected into to us from all those disgusting bugs....

Copán Ruinas

'Something must have gone wrong for you to be stuck in La Entrada' says the Lonely Planet. Naturally, Irina and I end up in this grim town in Western Honduras. One of the centres of narco-trafficking in the country apparently. We blame a tourism officer in León for giving us bad information, based on his estimates we had no chance of making it to Copán Ruinas by nightfall. As we board our (last resort) bus to La Entrada, a man tells me that the bus is packed with military men. 'Is that a good thing?' I ask cautiously. Yes, yes he assures me - they will protect us in case anything goes wrong..

Bus drivers and conductors in Central America are exceptionally and consistently helpful, but when they are hungry they stop & eat...no matter the time, the place or the hurry! We passengers look on longingly as a lady magically produces a fine-looking meal at a bus shelter on the side of the road.

Note flowery tablecloth upon which the bus drivers dine!

We "treat" ourselves by staying at El San Carlos - a miserable, overpriced motel. There is one blessing, the restaurant serves noodles (food which I have not eaten for months and which I was craving earlier this afternoon). There's only one thing on our mind over dinner - what time does the first bus leave in the morning?

My first & lasting impression of Honduras? All men wear hats!

We arrive to the beautiful, tranquil town of Copán Ruinas and dance with delight! Cobblestones, white-washed buildings, ample restaurants, artesanal shops, friendly people. At the hostel (En la Manzana Verde) we have been placed in the 'world-famous' dormitory - Irina's got Madonna and I've got Al Bundy!

Copán Ruinas

We ride horses for the afternoon (only $15 for three hours), along the river, over the hills and towards San Lucas' farm. This is good riding country and I am relieved to see that the horses in the area appear to be well-fed. Our guide, Carolina, is great fun (she is self-reportedly mad!) and never fails to stop laughing! She is thrilled that we speak Spanish and are of similar age.

Carolina, our guide around the local countryside

Irina & I letting the horses cool down in the Copan river

Pretty scenery all around

The three of us chat for three hours solidly!

The Ceiba tree, the national tree of Guatemala

Giant Lemons

Pineapples grow on low bushes...in case you were wondering?!

From up here, we can look down upon the ruins of Copan

We have a great afternoon, and stop off at the Jardin de Mujeres Tejiendo, Maya Chortia workshop - a small-business run entirely by women working to improve the quality of their lives and the lives of their children. We take a look at the looms used for weaving and buy one of the beautiful scarves (the money is used to buy school supplies for the children).

Loom used for weaving

Lots of feminine scarves handmade in the workshop - a celebration of women's creativity

Hondureña weaver & her daughter

Back at the hostel we make friends with a sweet Canadian, Jay, who also got stuck at La Entrada last night - phew, maybe we are not so ridiculous after all!

Next morning, it is time to visit the Copán archaeological site, situated one kilometre out of town. Many people overlook visiting Copán ruins, believing that the Tikal ruins are more spectacular - in actual fact, Copán are intriguing in a very different way and were one of the most important of all sites where Maya civilizations lived, prospered and mysteriously crumbled. During the Classic period (AD250-900) this city culturally dominated the region for centuries, now often labelled the 'Paris of the Maya world'. Tikal is celebrated for its very tall temple-pyramids. Palenque is renowned for it's limestone relied panels. But, Copán is unique in the Maya realm for its emphasis on sculpture.

The unique features of Copán;

1. The most numerously carved commemorative stelae and altars.

2. Many complex stone sculptures decorating the buildings.

3. Elaborate stucco facades (for example, the four decorated sides of the Rosalia)

4. The monumental Hieroglyphic Stairway that has the longest inscribed text at any Maya site.

5. All of the above are sculpted in a flamboyant style, and frequently in deep, nearly full-round relief.

Beautiful grounds around the ruins

Macaw (noisy creatures)

We hire a guide from the main office at the ruins for $25. She turns out to be terrible with very poor English and minimal historical information. In hindsight we wondered why we didn't ask her to speak in her native tongue, perhaps she would have been more informative? Nevertheless, the site is beautiful - filled with well-maintained lawns (this is very exciting for me, I have not see proper grass since Ireland!), huge Ceiba trees and brighly-coloured macaws. I was quite surprised to learn that a fair amount of the site has been reconstructed, many of the originals are kept inside the museum.

The ball court - the loser of the game was sacrificed on one of the ornate altars

Lovely lawn - the sweet smell of freshly cut grass

To help us imagine what the ball game may have looked like

To give a sense of perspective

Symbolising "The underworld"

Jay & Irina try to listen enthusiastically to our "guide"

Eventually we ditch the guide. Our desire to learn more about the Maya people not yet satisfied, we visit the on-site museum which displays a large selection of original sculptures from the central ruins, as well as from outlying household areas.

Inside the museum of Copán

Conservation of the stone sculpture and stucco decoration is a primar concern for Copán, a World Heritage site since 1980. Inside the museum the themes include: underworld symbolism, scuptural art masterpieces, warfare and ritual, fertility and cosmology, scribes and sculptors, community and council, nobles and residences. The quality and preservation of the original scuptures is incredible.

Later, we walk another 2km to La Sepulturas to see the ruins of the residential housing of the middle class. With the surrounding scenery, this must have been a wonderful place to live.

Tuk-tuk back to town (the heat is unbearable!)

I wish I could stay longer here in Copán, it is such a charming place. I would love to stay at the El Cisne farm in the highlands, do more horse-riding and sample all of the various restaurants in town. I would like to get to know more Hondureños, who by all appearances are friendly and jolly folk. The alarm clocks sounds early the following morning, we must catch a bus and cross the border into Guatemala.