Thursday 26 February 2009

Pool and Poisoning, Salta

Salta is a place I imagine to ooze mystery and magic. My visions of colonial architecture, Inca history and a backdrop of the Lerma Valley have fuelled my flight of fancy. It is a city I am looking forward to spending time, and after 23 hours on a bus from Mendoza, I am more than thrilled to arrive.....

To be fair, the bus journey is very comfortable. The film Revolutionary Road (2008) is played late in the journey, after meals and bingo (really!). Predictably it tickles my emotional side; tears run down my face under the spotlight of the nightlamp and the deadpan bus-attendant unexpectedly pats my head as he passes by. 

Adam and I spend the first day in Salta looking at the major attractions. The most fascinating of which is the Museum of High Altitude Archaeology (MAAM) where we learn about (and view) the remains of the Llullaillaco Children who are sensitively housed inside the exhibition. There is an energetic and bustling feel around the city, the streets are much narrower than those in Mendoza. In the afternoon the city is deserted (siesta-time!), leaving a much better view of the beautiful buildings and diverse styles of doors. 

There are many interpretations of the meaning of the name, Salta; an Indian tribal name "Saltas"; or "salla ta" meaning "crag-place"; or "sagtay", in quechua "meeting of the outstanding", or, the preferred meaning, "sagta", "very beautiful" in the language aymara.

Neoclassical Cathedral, Salta
9th of July Plaza, centre of city
Mitre Street, main Plaza 
Cabildo, formerly Town Hall (now museum)
Courtyard of the Cabildo
View from the Cabildo
Museum of Contemporary Art
Signature piece from the gallery
Lerma Valley  surrounding Salta

Gondola trip above the city (to San Bernardo hill)

The city of Salta
Jesus looks after the city from above

Over the course of the evening and into the wee-small hours, we win the doubles pool championship at Corre Caminos hostel (if only we had played for pesos!). Great bunch of people, lots of laughing.
Team 'River-Eira' (i.e. Elaine & Adam) win the Pool Championships!!
Adam, Hayley (Canada), James (Canada), Scarlett (US) and Johnny (N.Irish)


Unfortunately, that is where the pleasantries end. Next, I am violently struck down with food poisoning. The doctor is called, medicines and injections administered, days pass and I remain in my bed seeing none of the magic I had so clearly imagined. 

At the time of writing, I am recovering slowly, able to consume nothing more than water mixed with rehydration salts.......

Saturday 21 February 2009

Harvest time in Mendoza, Argentina

We are staying at Hostel Independencia a restored mansion (built in 1910) in the centre of city of Mendoza. It is so hot here, one could really do with a pool. However, we like the hostel, staff and people staying so much that we continue to extend our stay. 
Hostel Independencia
Beers and films in the garden most evenings

Bikes and W(h)ines
Our first day in Mendoza, we organise transport to Maipù and rent the bicycles from Bikes and Wines. Armed with a basic map and a general sense of direction we head off in the 38 degree heat. A word of warning, inspect your bike well before leaving the rental station - 7/8 hours on a bike with a broken saddle, lose chain or without brakes is not ideal....as we discovered. 

Vineyards in Maipu
Not a cloud in the sky!

First stop, Bodega Viña el Cerno. A nice place to pause and sample a glass of Malbec. Although for us it feels more like sitting in a quiet, rustic bar than a wine-tasting. The gentleman seems a little disinterested with our presence so we ask fewer questions and learn less than we might have liked. 
Learning the basics about their three ranges of wine
Their cheaper line 'WAYNA' means 'young man'
Seems a little early and hot to be drinking this!

Second stop, Tempus Alba. This is our favourite vineyard where there is a beautiful terrace overlooking their vineyards. We try a range of red wines, all of which are extremely palatable. My favourite is the Tempus Pleno 2003, complex and delicious, just the way I like!

Beautiful terrace at Tempus Alba
Sampling a variety of reds on the terrace

Learning how the process works...

On this terrace we meet Frank and Kim, a friendly couple from the Netherlands. We sit for a couple of hours before moving on to Almacén del Sur, a beautiful garden and restaurant nearby. For $45 ARS (£9.00 GBP), we eat from the delicious set menu - chicken cooked to perfection, stuffed with vegtables and herbs. Followed by an interesting combination of turrón, vanilla custard and orange for dessert. Given the intense heat, price list and amount of wine already consumed we stick to water!

Frank, Kim, Adam and I share a lovely lunch in the garden
Pudding

After lunch we are feeling more ready for bed than another vineyard, however, we persist and visit the famous, La Rural. There is an impressive museum within the complex, we have missed the English-speaking tour guides but we wander through the various displays.

Museum inside La Rural
Truck carrying grapes ready for harvesting

Afterwards, we peddle back to the rental station whinging about the intense heat and our aches and pains (due to extremely uncomfortable, broken saddles!). Then suddenly, Adam takes a tumble over the handbrakes and stubs his toe - whether due to excessive wine-consumption or heat-exhaustion is to be debated!! [Note to all worried Mothers: Adam is alive and well!!]

Mendoza
Mendoza is a lovely city with a number of attractive squares, wide avenues and parks, surrounded by vineyards. Peatonal Sarmiento, filled with coffee shops and often lively with music and dance, is a pleasant place to sit and ponder. 
Plaza España, a beautiful square
One of the many leafy squares around the city
Coffeeshop culture, Sarmiento
Folklore dancing on Sunday morning

Following Sarmiento on the west side of Plaza Independencia, there is a lovely walk along Avenue Emilio Civit, lined with beautiful colonial villas and mansions, leading the way to Parque San Martin. On Sunday afternoon, I wander through the attractive park which is not particularly busy (most people have a siesta in the afternoon) but there are some couples canoodling and others having a romantic meal for two (complete with table, chairs and chequered tablecloth!). 
Plaza Independencia, the main square
Av Emilio Civit, on the way towards San Martin park - dotted with pretty restaurants & bars
Lovely colonial building line this impressive neighbourhood
One of the many villa-style properties
Entrance to Parque San Martin
Parque San Martin (Av Libertador)
Lovely aside from rubbish :-(
Another banger in Argentina!

On the way back, I stop at Ferruccio Soppelsa, an ice-cream shop and sample their 'Vanilla al Malbec' and 'Melocotón Syrah' flavours. Rather strange to be eating wine-flavoured ice-cream it has to be said, but certainly worth a try!
I spot Vanilla al Malbec & Melcoton Syrah!
And decide to give it a go!! (verdict: interesting, not refreshing)


Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (The Grape Harvest Festival)

This festival takes place every year and is world-famous for celebrating wine and the wine-making industry. Parts of the festival have already begun during our stay, but the main festival does not begin for another 2 weeks. It is a great pity we cannot hang around as we have heard it is a spectacular sight.

Music Festival
In one of the local parks every evening there is music and comedy. One evening we go along with a group from the hostel, sitting on the grass and listening to the various types of Argentine folk music. The guitar players are really impressive, however the some of their skills are somewhat muffled in the dodgy sound-system. Traditional dancing and stand-up comedians follow. There are hundreds of people, some open-air parillas and stalls selling local artesanal products and food. Next week Manu Chao will play (with tickets at the bargain rate of $50 ARS!!).
Note the bottle of Malbec in the back pocket as we approach the festival

Afterwards we head to a club, Iskra, where there is a live band followed by DJ. Good fun and full of locals (including some girls who are in the running to be Harvest Queen!).
Potential Harvest Queens at Iskra
Live band playing current Argentine hits (the crowd love it!)
Seats are promptly whisked away after the band finishes - time to dance!

I end up sick in bed for almost two+ days with some kind of stomach bug during our stay in this city (reason unknown), but once I recover in I'm in desperate need of sustenance! 

Eating in Mendoza (to assist recovery)
Anna, a bistro with a beautiful garden and scrumptious food. I think the descriptions must be quite pretentious as I understood almost nothing of the waitress' description of the specials! However, we just about manage to decipher ceviche, carpaccio, lamb, steak and a bottle of red from the menu! 

A fine plate of carpacccio and ceviche for starters
Tender lamb and ratatouille for my main plate
Good old Bife de Ojo for Adam!

1884 Francis Mallman, rated the 7th best restaurant in the world in 2003! According to various reports it is the best restaurant in town. We discover that it is set within the beautiful Bodega Escorihuela just outside the city centre - the setting and decor is magnificent. I savour 'baby goat' for the first time (feel guilty afterwards). It is a beautiful location with delicious food, but to be honest I preferred the relaxed atmosphere of Anna.

Francis Mallman's 1884

Despite my sickness for part of our stay here, Mendoza has been a charming place to relax and savour the coffeeshops, sunshine and local wine. It is a place where travellers often linger, making a nice change from the usual 24-hour encounters. I am going to wander around the hostel now and take some mugshots of some of our new friends.......

Roanne (SA) and Sarah (Eire)
Josh (Canada) and Alex (Sweden)
Enjoying the balmy evenings at Hostel Independencia

Unfortunately the infamous Tino (staff member) was unavailable for the shoot..most likely too busy being 'rude' to people ;-)

In the morning, we are getting an 20-hour bus to Salta as we begin to move north towards the Bolivian border.