Harvest time in Mendoza, Argentina

We are staying at Hostel Independencia a restored mansion (built in 1910) in the centre of city of Mendoza. It is so hot here, one could really do with a pool. However, we like the hostel, staff and people staying so much that we continue to extend our stay.

Hostel Independencia

Beers and films in the garden most evenings

Bikes and W(h)ines

Our first day in Mendoza, we organise transport to Maipù and rent the bicycles from Bikes and Wines. Armed with a basic map and a general sense of direction we head off in the 38 degree heat. A word of warning, inspect your bike well before leaving the rental station - 7/8 hours on a bike with a broken saddle, lose chain or without brakes is not ideal....as we discovered.

Vineyards in Maipu

Not a cloud in the sky!

First stop, Bodega Viña el Cerno. A nice place to pause and sample a glass of Malbec. Although for us it feels more like sitting in a quiet, rustic bar than a wine-tasting. The gentleman seems a little disinterested with our presence so we ask fewer questions and learn less than we might have liked.

Learning the basics about their three ranges of wine

Their cheaper line 'WAYNA' means 'young man'

Seems a little early and hot to be drinking this!

Second stop, Tempus Alba. This is our favourite vineyard where there is a beautiful terrace overlooking their vineyards. We try a range of red wines, all of which are extremely palatable. My favourite is the Tempus Pleno 2003, complex and delicious, just the way I like!

Beautiful terrace at Tempus Alba

Sampling a variety of reds on the terrace

Learning how the process works...

On this terrace we meet Frank and Kim, a friendly couple from the Netherlands. We sit for a couple of hours before moving on to Almacén del Sur, a beautiful garden and restaurant nearby. For $45 ARS (£9.00 GBP), we eat from the delicious set menu - chicken cooked to perfection, stuffed with vegtables and herbs. Followed by an interesting combination of turrón, vanilla custard and orange for dessert. Given the intense heat, price list and amount of wine already consumed we stick to water!

Frank, Kim, Adam and I share a lovely lunch in the garden

Pudding

After lunch we are feeling more ready for bed than another vineyard, however, we persist and visit the famous, La Rural. There is an impressive museum within the complex, we have missed the English-speaking tour guides but we wander through the various displays.

Museum inside La Rural

Truck carrying grapes ready for harvesting

Afterwards, we peddle back to the rental station whinging about the intense heat and our aches and pains (due to extremely uncomfortable, broken saddles!). Then suddenly, Adam takes a tumble over the handbrakes and stubs his toe - whether due to excessive wine-consumption or heat-exhaustion is to be debated!! [Note to all worried Mothers: Adam is alive and well!!]

Mendoza

Mendoza is a lovely city with a number of attractive squares, wide avenues and parks, surrounded by vineyards. Peatonal Sarmiento, filled with coffee shops and often lively with music and dance, is a pleasant place to sit and ponder.

Plaza España, a beautiful square

One of the many leafy squares around the city

Coffeeshop culture, Sarmiento

Folklore dancing on Sunday morning

Following Sarmiento on the west side of Plaza Independencia, there is a lovely walk along Avenue Emilio Civit, lined with beautiful colonial villas and mansions, leading the way to Parque San Martin. On Sunday afternoon, I wander through the attractive park which is not particularly busy (most people have a siesta in the afternoon) but there are some couples canoodling and others having a romantic meal for two (complete with table, chairs and chequered tablecloth!).

Plaza Independencia, the main square

Av Emilio Civit, on the way towards San Martin park - dotted with pretty restaurants & bars

Lovely colonial building line this impressive neighbourhood

One of the many villa-style properties

Entrance to Parque San Martin

Parque San Martin (Av Libertador)

Lovely aside from rubbish :-(

Another banger in Argentina!

On the way back, I stop at Ferruccio Soppelsa, an ice-cream shop and sample their 'Vanilla al Malbec' and 'Melocotón Syrah' flavours. Rather strange to be eating wine-flavoured ice-cream it has to be said, but certainly worth a try!

I spot Vanilla al Malbec & Melcoton Syrah!

And decide to give it a go!! (verdict: interesting, not refreshing)

Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (The Grape Harvest Festival)

This festival takes place every year and is world-famous for celebrating wine and the wine-making industry. Parts of the festival have already begun during our stay, but the main festival does not begin for another 2 weeks. It is a great pity we cannot hang around as we have heard it is a spectacular sight.

Music Festival

In one of the local parks every evening there is music and comedy. One evening we go along with a group from the hostel, sitting on the grass and listening to the various types of Argentine folk music. The guitar players are really impressive, however the some of their skills are somewhat muffled in the dodgy sound-system. Traditional dancing and stand-up comedians follow. There are hundreds of people, some open-air parillas and stalls selling local artesanal products and food. Next week Manu Chao will play (with tickets at the bargain rate of $50 ARS!!).

Note the bottle of Malbec in the back pocket as we approach the festival

Afterwards we head to a club, Iskra, where there is a live band followed by DJ. Good fun and full of locals (including some girls who are in the running to be Harvest Queen!).

Potential Harvest Queens at Iskra

Live band playing current Argentine hits (the crowd love it!)

Seats are promptly whisked away after the band finishes - time to dance!

I end up sick in bed for almost two+ days with some kind of stomach bug during our stay in this city (reason unknown), but once I recover in I'm in desperate need of sustenance!

Eating in Mendoza (to assist recovery)

Anna, a bistro with a beautiful garden and scrumptious food. I think the descriptions must be quite pretentious as I understood almost nothing of the waitress' description of the specials! However, we just about manage to decipher ceviche, carpaccio, lamb, steak and a bottle of red from the menu!

A fine plate of carpacccio and ceviche for starters

Tender lamb and ratatouille for my main plate

Good old Bife de Ojo for Adam!

1884 Francis Mallman, rated the 7th best restaurant in the world in 2003! According to various reports it is the best restaurant in town. We discover that it is set within the beautiful Bodega Escorihuela just outside the city centre - the setting and decor is magnificent. I savour 'baby goat' for the first time (feel guilty afterwards). It is a beautiful location with delicious food, but to be honest I preferred the relaxed atmosphere of Anna.

Francis Mallman's 1884

Despite my sickness for part of our stay here, Mendoza has been a charming place to relax and savour the coffeeshops, sunshine and local wine. It is a place where travellers often linger, making a nice change from the usual 24-hour encounters. I am going to wander around the hostel now and take some mugshots of some of our new friends.......