Vientiane, Laos

Sabai di from Vientiane!

Today, the 7th November, our first experience flying with Lao Airlines from Bangkok to Wattay International Airport, Vientiane. We had been warned about the likelihood of departure schedules changing so we allow 2 hours and grab a Croque Monsieur and decent coffee inside the terminal. Lao Airlines has got a very dodgy safety record (I don't mention to Mother until afterwards)....but we survive and enjoy the coconut pastry and almond bread with some sort of cream cheese provided. We arrive in the capital of Laos (originally called Lao, mispelled by the French during colonial times, and written 'Lao' by locals) at 11am, and we are greeted with intense sunshine and blue sky.

Arrival in Vientiane

Day 1: Vientiane

Queue (for ages) for our visas, pick up rucksacks (last ones!) and make our way to taxi depot. We ask about accommodation in the city, and our taxi driver happily suggests that we try a brand new guest house which is very central (we find out later that he is paid commission to do so). We agree and head to the Souphaphone Guest House, Rue Francoise. We like the room, book in for 3 nights and accept the offer of $25 per night including an "American" breakfast. The room is clean with air-con, en-suite and contains a locked wardrobe and drawer (not quite fitting in with our original plan of 5* with swimming pool, but clean all the same!).

Guest house

It turns out the guesthouse is a family-run business which opened on the 21st October 2008 - hence why it is not mentioned in the guidebooks. One of the daughters, Vien, did an MBA in Australia and speaks good English - she provides us with a map, directions, estimated tuk-tuk prices and informs us that it is not safe to walk around this area after midnight. The building is her family home, and she points to the room where she was born. We take off our shoes before entering the guest house, as locals do (the streets are pretty filthy outside so it makes sense).

There is a cafe with free Wi-Fi next door -it even sells deep-fried ice-cream (I thought this was a Scottish tradition?), but I steer myself away and stick to Lao tea. We pick up a copy of the local English paper to see what's on (an Opera will be showing next week, but nothing this weekend).

We snooze a while due to insomnia the previous night. Later we realise that we are a stone's throw from the Mekong river - the street that follows the river is called Fa Ngum road. There are lots of open-air bars (nothing fancy but very pleasant) - selling food, fruit juices and most importantly, Beer Lao! We pick a place and order vegetable noodles and 2 cold beers. Delicious!

A cold beer is welcomed in the heat!

Delicious noodles with vegetables and egg

After dinner we relax and watch the sun go down.

Sunset over the Mekong

Food stalls along the river walkway

Fa Ngum

We have some tea at our local cafe, and get a massage upstairs. Mother thoroughly enjoyed her massage and could not believe the muscle-power of her tiny Lao lady! I, on the other hand, seem to have got a raw deal! - my lady's technique was a little haphazard to say the least. I felt quite good afterwards, but I drawa parallel with taking off an uncomfortable pair of shoes after a day's walking. It costs about a pound so can't complain...aside
from the bruises on my legs :-(

Back at the guesthouse we chat to a couple (Graham, an Australian man & Conni, a Mexican lady) who have just arrived back from Luang Prabang in the North of Laos (where we will head on Monday). They loved it and give us the details of the place they stayed (delux bungalows with a river-view). I also, quiz the lady about Mexico (where I will be spending time in May 2009).

Day 2: Vientiane
We awake after our first decent sleep since arriving in Asia and pop down for breakfast - consisting of bread, juice, frankfurters and fried egg (not exactly traditional
but tasty all-the-same!). With map and suncream, we set off to explore the city. My goodness it is so hot. We are melting at it's only 9am!

We do some sight-seeing:

Nam Phou Place, fountain and public square - a pleasant space with 2 French restaurants and Scandinavian bakery (there is quite a big expat community in Vientiane so plenty of different types of food).

Nam Phou Place

That Dam monument

Along Vientiane's (slightly seedy) Champs Elysees, Lane Xang Avenue there is the Patouxai (victory monument) built to commemorate war casualties on the side of the Royal Lao Government. We climb to the top to get a view over the city.

Revolutionary monument

Buddhist monks

People are friendly, curious, proud and perhaps even more reserved than the Thai. My experiences with Lao people suggest that they are a nation of people who are very proud of their country and culture, and are very keen to promote tourism for the good of their country, moreso than a single-minded agenda to become rich themselves. Everybody stares at us! There are quite a few backpackers around, and Vientiane is so small that we keep bumping into people over and over! The locals really appreciate if you make an effort to speak a little Lao, and return the favour with a beaming smile.

There are dogs and tiny kittens everywhere. On our first night one particularly belligerent mutt came charging out barking, snarling and snapping around Mother's legs. Luckily, a local man called it away & not a second too soon!! Vientiane is not a clean place by any standards - and health care is non-existent, so we are hoping not to get sick! We have not been sticking too rigidly to the rules = eating off the street stalls and eating raw vegetables and fruit, but we are avoiding ice. So far, so good. I have started taking my Doxi (anti-malarial tablets) and I am convinced they kill all bacteria...

After a morning of solid walking and sun-exposure we are in need of some refreshment. We come across a place packed with locals and decide to give it a go! We take a look at what others are eating and pick some dishes from the menu (luckily with pictures!).


We try Nam Neuang (pork, lettuce, chilli, sprouts, peanut sauce, noodles) and Lao spring rolls (cold, with raw vegetable inside).

yum!

The food is so tasty, and we feel instantly refreshed after a few gulps of Beer Lao! We are suffering from post-lunch dip so decide to siesta and shower, again! 

Later we head back to the river side for another splendid sunset and another Beer Lao! 

Food stall along the Fa Ngum

The sun has killed our appetite, so we opt for an hour foot massage instead at the 'Riverine hotel'. The massage was truly amazing! Highly recommended (1 hour costs $5 - expensive in Laos terms but well worth every cent). In terms of currency here - the national currency is kip, however (Thai) baht and US dollars are widely accepted. I saw three cash points in the city and they are not easy to find, so it is best to bring dollars to change if nothing else.

On the way back we take a different road home - and end up being surrounded by (beautiful) female prostitutes and a toothless beggar woman who starts shouting at us. We swiftly move on, feeling a distinctly different feel in the air. It is Saturday night and the pubs are quite busy.

I am still not hungry so opt for a bowl of fruit and some green tea at the local cafe, check emails and Mother reads about Luang Prabang - a seemingly spiritual
place that she is really keen to spend time.

Back at the guest house we are greeted by a GIANT cockroach, I stand on a chair and let Mother jump about like a kangaroo, chasing after it. It is currently hiding behind the wardrobe, no doubt ready to pounce one the light goes out....

Day 3: Vientiane

Today is our last day in Vientiane. I have to say I really like the place - it is so laid-back and quaint. Not like any other capital city I have been to.
The food is great, and there are so many restaurants to chose from!

There are many contrasts in the city - from shelled buildings, shacks, filth, abject poverty to 5* hotels, SUVs, leafy beer gardens and expensive restaurants. Tourism is growing in Laos,
and I would imagine in a few years time it will be a very different place. The Vientiane Times outlines recent initiatives to promote Laos as tourism destination for UK travellers in it's own right. There has been a drop in Thai tourism over the past couple of months (speculated reasons are due to the negative press about riots and protesting), and so Laos tourism has suffered as a result. Laos is riddled with sanitation problems and corruption - two major deterrents. There are plans of tackling the sanitation problem at the moment - but given the worldwide economic downturn, this is likely to be put on the long finger.

Typical street in Vientiane

One of the many shelled buildings

Sword-fighters!

Today, some more sight-seeing in the morning...

Wat Sisaket - the oldest Wat in Vientiane (1818). I really like this Wat - it's really peaceful and the cloisters provide some welcome shade!

Wat Sisaket

The Altar

Buddhas line the cloisters

A Hang Hod - carved in the shape of a Naga, used for pouring perfumed water through during religious ceremonies.

Hang Hod

The Presidential Palace (French Beaux-Arts style which is now used for Government ceremonies).

Presidential Palace

Haw Pha Kaew - which was once the King's personal temple and now is the Museum of Art and Antiques. Inside, there are many bronze buddhas and statues.

Ha Pha Kaew

Buddha in the "Beckoning Rain" pose

Buddha symbolising peace

Then, we head to the Morning Market (open 8am-5pm)

Straining honey

Mother getting fitted for a Lao skirt

Lunch time....

Luang Prabang sausage

Sticky rice with chicken

We wander around a little more in the afternoon and read in the sun. On our way out to see the sunset, we meet Vien from the guesthouse who chats a while
and invites us to a wedding later that evening - an opportunity to see some traditional Lao dancing. We are thrilled!

Last sunset in Vientiane.....

Pork 'noodles'

Then we head back to the Guesthouse to meet Vien and her friend, Mo and drive to the wedding venue.

Vien and Mo in traditional Lao dress

Mushroom soup, crispy pork & vegetables

The wedding is really fun - we get introduced to lots of Lao people and members of the wedding family (the groom is Vietnamese and the bride is Chinese). People are warm, friendly and fascinated! Aside from the bride's dress (modern style), the wedding is a traditional Lao wedding. The Lao dancing is somewhat unusual and involves lots of hand-swirling. The ladies dress immaculately - I really like the traditional Lao skirt and top, there are so many beautiful colours and patterns.

The greatest laugh of the night was when two of Vien's friends were asked to dance by a pair of somewhat older, and em, unattractive Lao gentlemen. Everyone got very excited, giggling and taking photos! According to Vien, it is highly impolite to refuse to dance - but Vien and her friends often make excuses... e.g. 'my leg hurts', or 'I haven't finished eating yet!'...especially if the man is not handsome (or rich!). It seems some excuses in life are universal! Vien and her friends have made a decision to not marry for as long as possible, as some of their friends who have got married now have to ask permission from their husbands in order to socialise (this does not appeal to these highly educated ladies!).

On the drive home, it transpires that Vien is having real hassle every night at the guesthouse with men trying to bring prostitutes into their rooms. Vien is the only person in the family who speaks English so she tends to have to deal with queries and problems (in addition to working full-time at a hydro-electric company in the city). There is a strict rule that no guests are allowed beyond the lobby at any time, and it is necessary to ring a bell to enter the guesthouse after midnight every night. However, many male guests (especially backpackers travelling alone) cause havoc in the early hours of the morning, and over the past couple of weeks (since the opening) Vien has had to call the police (which costs money, time, and results in arrest). Poor Vien is so worried about it that she cannot sleep. I suggest that she requests guests to sign a written agreement upon payment (basically saying that they are aware of the rules and the consequences of bringing outsiders into the guesthouse). She agrees, and together we draw out a 'letter of agreement' which will now be translated into various languages. We find out that it is illegal for Lao people to sleep with foreigners, and that all the prostitutes come in from the North of Thailand (speaking Lao).

It's been a busy day, so we get some rest. Tomorrow is another early start as we are flying to Luang Prabang where we will stay for four nights. I would like to go to Vang Viang to do some caving and tubing on route however, Mother is not too keen on a 10-hour bus journey from here to Luang Prabang (or on tubing for that matter!). I might see if I can do a day-trip if I have time.