Sunday 21 June 2009

The Yellow House

La Antigua Guatemala (Old Guatemala) is the place where I spend the last few days of this trip to Latin America. It is a city in the central highlands of Guatemala famous for its well-preserved Spanish Mudéjar-influenced Baroque architecture as well as a number of ruins of colonial churches. It has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
La Merced, featuring Maya lotus flower designs

Central Park, Antigua
The city is full of cafe courtyards
Antigua, Volcan de Agua in the background
Guatemalan Metropolitan Cathedral

Coincidentally Adam arrives on the same day, so Irina and I meet him for a last supper before he heads on to Semuc Champay.
Just like old times in Argentina

We have a tasty meal and walk over to a great bohemian bar, Cafe No Se. On route, I am deeply engaged in conversation with one of our new friends, admiring the colonial buildings across the road when I smack my forehead off one of the protruding stone windowsills. The lump grows and blood pours. Yes, Adam confirms, the windowsill is hard. I ask for an ice-pack inside the bar, I am certainly not the first it seems! I stay for one drink, the rest of the evening is fuzzy.
Days later I revisit the windowsill

Pacaya is one of the world's most active volcanoes. The exciting feature for tourists is the visibility of flowing lava (which some bright sparks have decided to sell marshmallows for toasting upon).
Pacaya Volcano

We are dropped off into the midst of chaos. Boys with horses, children selling sticks and fellow tourists have been offloaded into a small parking lot. Guides run around calling out names, and rounding up groups. We begin the 1.5 hr hike upwards. We pass a white bull and numerous guys offering us a 'taxi' on top of their horse.
The starting point..
Initial blue skies and view of countryside
The ghostly bull
The view for most the hike
Booo to crowds
The texture & shapes of this volcanic rock is incredible
Flowing lava
Giant hot coals!
Marshmallow toasters

We are halfway up when a thick mist drops, creating an eerie feel. Along the way, we realise that we have made a rather silly decision to climb the volcano on Saturday, given the crowds. Later I learn that 400 people climb the volcano this afternoon. There is a mixture of locals and foreigners who are enjoying a weekend free from working or voluntering in Guatemala. For me personally, the crowds really cloud the experience, fighting for a spot near the lava is not what I had imagined. At the top, we wave to Adam across the crowds. Seeing the lava makes it worthwhile, it is pretty cool (can't think of a better word). We return down, the temperature has really dropped, along with the sun. The rain pours, and we slip and slide in the mud all the way back to the bus.

On Sunday, Irina accurately notes that "to chicken bus" is now officially a verb - as in "we chicken bused it to Chichicastenango market today". I like chicken buses - the bright colours, the personalised interior, the party atmosphere created by the pumping Bachata music. However, our journey to Chichi shakes my confidence a tad. On the positive, the speeds clocked ensure that we arrive at the market before most of the other tourists..


No two chicken buses are ever the same...


Chichi market occurs every Sunday and filled with all kinds of wonderful tapestries, weaving, fruit and lots of tat. The market is well-laid out and friendly - it is easy to spend hours wandering around.



Shopping for Jesus, Mary & Joseph
Beautiful jewlery
Chichi market

Best food in town from a street stall

Happy me


For the next couple of days, I fill my hours doing yoga, reading, drinking fresh lemonade and wandering around the occassional church.
Lemonade with fresh mint

The Yellow House provides a wonderful breakfast every morning, best enjoyed on the rooftop terrace in the sunshine overlooking the city.

Breakfast at The Yellow House

On my final morning, I am feeling relaxed and well-rested, ready to begin the slow journey back to Europe.

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