Wednesday 31 December 2008

Sipping 40s in Buenos Aires, Argentina

The taxi drive from Ezieza airport, to downtown Buenos Aires is very pleasant. The skies are blue, the city is every bit as attractive as I had imagined. We are beyond tiredness and giddy with excitement!! 
Irina, my travel companion for the next 4 weeks

We arrive at Azcuenaga, next to Recoleta where we are staying with the family of my friend, Pali (more introductions later). We have not met the family before, yet they welcome us into their home with hospitality and generosityWe scrub up, and eat some Milanesa (breaded meat fillet). 

First stroll in Buenos Aires
In the afternoon, Marta, the charming Lady of House, draws us a plan and suggested walk around the south of the city. I buy a sim card for my phone, and then we set off in search of Freddo (a famous Argentine ice-cream chain) for some dulce de leche ice-cream (which relieves all jet-lag symptoms temporarily!). 

Freddo!
Aside from Santa Fe, the other streets are relatively quiet - lots of people get out of the city at this time of year - there are many green areas, huge old trees, attractive architecture, pretty boulevards, coffee shops and designer clothes shops are plentiful (this is a posh part of town).  

Lots of green areas and attractive squares

Back at the apartment we chat to Marta & Carolina (Pali's younger sister), whilst drinking some fine Irish whiskey! When our eyes begin to droop mid-conversation, Marta promptly orders us to bed!!

A day in Recoleta
After a night's sleep (with a mosquito), we set off to explore the local neighbourhood of Recoleta in more detail. First, we wander through the streets and alleys of the Cemetery of the Recoleta - pausing at Evita Peron's family (Duarte) masoleum, which is very crowded with tour groups
The various styles of architecture and burial structures are imaginative and interesting to explore. It is a blissful 27 degrees in the city today, although the midday sun is a little too warm for us gringos so we enjoy a couple of hours of people-watching and drinking coffee on a nearby shaded terrace.
Cafe on the Terrace
We do not expect to find red telephone boxes!

Next, we go to the Centro Cultural Recoleta where there is a large and varied exhibition of paintings, scupltures and installations from Argentine artists.  The gallery is divided into 10 provinces, and each room displays artwork from that particular location, e.g. La Pampa, Tierra del Fuego.
The style, media, subject matter and quality vary from piece to piece.....There are many vibrant paintings, clad with primary colours and passion!









The building is light and airy, and the mood in the gallery is tranquil and easy-going. Not so is the Museo de los Bellas Artes. where we meander next. There are many rules - no water, no photos, stand behind the line and the security men regularly bark orders at us. However, the collection is impressive, and we spend some time in the current exhibition of modern Argentine art, "Latitudes: maestros latinoamericanos en la colección FEMSA".


Museo de los Bellas Artes
Nearby, in the Design Centre a cat finds a warm place to have a nap
A lone shoe

This evening we are feeling more energetic, so we go out to a (recommended) restaurant called Milion. The dishes consist of locally produced ingredients with a modern twist. 
An interesting butter mousse
Trout with quinoa caviar & crunchy vegtables
Dorado with cornbread 

On the way home, we stop by The Shamrock for a couple of beers during happy hour. Exhausted by midnight, we tumble into bed.

Next morning, our alarm fails to sound at the requested time of 5.30 am. Luckily Irina wakes up minutes before taxi arrives. This time we are headed to Aeroparque, the airport which serves domestic flights. 

Today is New Year's Eve and we are headed for Bariloche, Patagonia!

1 comment:

  1. Very jealous! Just got back to London and it's sooo cold I nearly died cycling from Victoria home! Happy New Year!! xxx

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