Sipping 40s in Buenos Aires, Argentina

The taxi drive from Ezieza airport, to downtown Buenos Aires is very pleasant. The skies are blue, the city is every bit as attractive as I had imagined. We are beyond tiredness and giddy with excitement!! 

Irina, my travel companion for the next 4 weeks

We arrive at Azcuenaga, next to Recoleta where we are staying with the family of my friend, Pali (more introductions later). We have not met the family before, yet they welcome us into their home with hospitality and generosity. We scrub up, and eat some Milanesa (breaded meat fillet). 

First stroll in Buenos Aires

In the afternoon, Marta, the charming Lady of House, draws us a plan and suggested walk around the south of the city. I buy a sim card for my phone, and then we set off in search of Freddo (a famous Argentine ice-cream chain) for some dulce de leche ice-cream (which relieves all jet-lag symptoms temporarily!). 

Freddo!

Aside from Santa Fe, the other streets are relatively quiet - lots of people get out of the city at this time of year - there are many green areas, huge old trees, attractive architecture, pretty boulevards, coffee shops and designer clothes shops are plentiful (this is a posh part of town).  

Lots of green areas and attractive squares

Back at the apartment we chat to Marta & Carolina (Pali's younger sister), whilst drinking some fine Irish whiskey! When our eyes begin to droop mid-conversation, Marta promptly orders us to bed!!

A day in Recoleta

After a night's sleep (with a mosquito), we set off to explore the local neighbourhood of Recoleta in more detail. First, we wander through the streets and alleys of the Cemetery of the Recoleta - pausing at Evita Peron's family (Duarte) masoleum, which is very crowded with tour groups. 

The various styles of architecture and burial structures are imaginative and interesting to explore. It is a blissful 27 degrees in the city today, although the midday sun is a little too warm for us gringos so we enjoy a couple of hours of people-watching and drinking coffee on a nearby shaded terrace.

Cafe on the Terrace

We do not expect to find red telephone boxes!

Next, we go to the Centro Cultural Recoleta where there is a large and varied exhibition of paintings, scupltures and installations from Argentine artists.  The gallery is divided into 10 provinces, and each room displays artwork from that particular location, e.g. La Pampa, Tierra del Fuego.

The style, media, subject matter and quality vary from piece to piece.....There are many vibrant paintings, clad with primary colours and passion!

The building is light and airy, and the mood in the gallery is tranquil and easy-going. Not so is the Museo de los Bellas Artes. where we meander next. There are many rules - no water, no photos, stand behind the line and the security men regularly bark orders at us. However, the collection is impressive, and we spend some time in the current exhibition of modern Argentine art, "Latitudes: maestros latinoamericanos en la colección FEMSA".

Museo de los Bellas Artes

Nearby, in the Design Centre a cat finds a warm place to have a nap

A lone shoe

This evening we are feeling more energetic, so we go out to a (recommended) restaurant called Milion. The dishes consist of locally produced ingredients with a modern twist. 

An interesting butter mousse

Trout with quinoa caviar & crunchy vegtables

Dorado with cornbread 

On the way home, we stop by The Shamrock for a couple of beers during happy hour. Exhausted by midnight, we tumble into bed.

Next morning, our alarm fails to sound at the requested time of 5.30 am. Luckily Irina wakes up minutes before taxi arrives. This time we are headed to Aeroparque, the airport which serves domestic flights. 

Today is New Year's Eve and we are headed for Bariloche, Patagonia!

Dancing, climbing & praying in Sligo, build-up to Buenos Aires

December 23rd

After a day's hill-walking, I catch up with Olwyn and Roisin at The Clarence (club) where there is some interesting jungle music. 

Elaine, Rosin (the fairy) & Olwyn

Christmas Eve 

Begins with a memorial mass for my Grandparents and Uncle Tony. Shopping (browsing). Pub (hot port). More browsing. Shops are packed, apparently Tesco has run out of turkeys and streaky bacon. Pub (mulled wine). Party at Breda's apartment - I get told I look 'youthful for my age'! Midnight mass & Carol service. Tea and mince pies at home by the fire.

Christmas Day

I sleep until midday (unheard of!). Long walk at Rosses Point, watch the charity swim and decide that a dip in the Atlantic on the 25th December may induce terrible pre-travel illness, so stay dry ashore. Visit the delightful Doreen and Betty Crown, my Grandmother's cousins, in Strandhill. Back home we indulge in a couple of Bloody Mary's, eat a wonderful traditional dinner, our first Christmas day with just the two of us. We don't really have a routine - each year our Christmas has been quite different. Snooze and rest for the remainder of the day. Santa (Clause) was very practical this year - thermals, hiking socks & dollars!

Rosses Point beach, Sligo

'Jumping Jacks' to keep warm!

Rosses Point promenade

St.Stephen's (Boxing) Day

Another amazing sleep (it is so peaceful here). Feeling refreshed, we climb Knocknarea, mince pies and a flask of mulled wine in tow. Visit Mim. More turkey. Then we hit the town. A very fun night - many reunions!

The path to visit Queen Maeve

Mother is happy on her bi-annual pilgrimage

Silliness on top of the mountain

Hot port & mince pies :-)

Traditional Irish stone wall

Happy Cows

December 27th

An Irish fry-up for breakfast. Tremendous rush to leave the house by 9am. Icy roads, slow drive. Chaos at Knock airport, Ryanair ladies have been replaced with middle-aged men in wooley-jumpers. Flight delayed. Arrive in Luton, no trains to West Hampstead (WH). Train to King's Cross, eventually onward train to WH. Rooms a mess, need to pack. All packed, superfluous goods donated, remainder binned. Room clean. Run to station, aaargh no Jubilee or Metropolitan line! Rail replacement bus to Baker Street, get wrong tube, miss train from Victoria, aaargh. Wait for an hour in Victoria, icicles appear on my eyelashes. 19.03pm train to Faversham, meet Sam. Drinks with friends. Almost miss the train to Whitstable, run like the wind, train at platform. Make it with seconds to spare. Arrive at Whitstable, nice walk home. Lovely evening chatting and laughing. Broken sleep, but my lovely hotwater bottle keeps me warm :-)

December 28th

Wake early, eyes do not function, breakfast. Rail engineering works, drive to Sittingbourne. Watery goodbyes, followed by a teary journey back to London. Pull myself together! Last minute organising. Spill glass of Berocca (orange vitamin drink) on white fleece 5 mins before scheduled departure time! Vanish! Taxi to Heathrow. Meet Irina, my worldly possessions have been whittled down to 14.5kg (plus hand luggage!). Hassle at check-in with immigration, names, seats, and then I am chosen for a 'random security check' before boarding the plane -step-by-step security take out every item from my hand luggage (a tightly packed 25 litres)! Plane delayed,  but we are headed for JFK New York, then Buenos Aires!! I am quite grumpy and the (lovely) New Yorker beside me is chatty and wants to make friends. I just want to sleep....wrap up in blanket, eye mask, flight socks, ear plugs......at last, peace!!

The first chapter of my South American adventures is about to begin! An exciting conversation over a glass of wine on a Tuesday evening with Adam (my friend & soon-to-be travel companion) has materialised! Despite all the wonderful things in my life in London, there is all-consuming fire in my belly to travel! This is something I need to do for me, and I have inclining that I will grow as person having done so.

Right, no more talking, must sleep....currently suspended 10365 metres above the Atlantic Ocean, with 2.52 hours remining until we reach JFK.....

Rough Itinerary for South and Central America Trip

December 28th - Buenos Aires, Argentina (Elaine & Irina)

December 31st -Bariloche 

January 4th - La Pampa (Horse ranch - meet Pali)

January 9th - Buenos Aires (meet Adam)

January 12th - El Calafate, Fitz Roy, El Chalten, Glaciers National Park

January 20th - Torres del Paine, Chile (Irina to London)

February 1st - Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego

February - Mendoza, Santiago, Uruguay, Iguazu Falls, Brazil

March - Brazil (Sao Paulo, Rio, Salvador), Bolivia (Adam to Peru, Elaine to meet Sarah, La Paz)

April - Ecuador, Columbia, boat trip to Panama

May - Costa Rica, Guatemala, Mexico

June - Mexico, Las Vegas, Los Angeles

June 19th - Fly to London (Elaine)

Places that I would love to visit (but not sure if all will be possible on this trip)......

Antartica

Easter Island

Galapagos Islands

Cuba

To-Bring List for South America

(Although general rule is bring less stuff & more money!)

Essentials

65 Litre Rucksack 

Day pack, small shoulder bag

Silk sleeping bag liner & pillow

Wallet & body pouch

Money, visa & bank cards– US dollars, some local currency

PADI license for diving, driver's license for car hire

Passport, tickets, printed (rough) itinerary for immigration, travel insurance details, passport photos, injections certificate (NB* Yellow Fever)

Addresses/emergency contact details saved to laptop 

First-aid kit (syringes, antacids, re-hydration sachets, anti-diarrhoea pills, antihistamines, plasters, multi-vitamins, antibiotics, citronella, tea-tree and Propolis tablets

Deet (50%) – insect repellent

Anti-bacterial hand gel

Water purification & iodine tablets

Suncream

Ear plugs

Giant travel towel

Clothes line & clothes wash

Universal sink plug

Travel adaptor 

Toothbrush with anti-bacterial cap, (a couple) of toiletries!

Ziplock bags, Swiss army knife, torch, duct tape

Wet-wipes & tissues

Mooncup

Little Extras

Contact cards & photos to show people along the way

Playing cards 

Pocket map of Ireland & Great Britain

Electrical

Laptop, cable, protective case, external hard-drive for back-up & blank DVDs

Phone & charger

Camera, charger, case & spare battery pack(s)

iPod & cable

Footwear

Flip-flops

Merrell strap-on sandals

Gortex hiking boots

Clothes

Microfleece

Gortex lightweight jacket

Hooded North Face jacket for cold weather

Thermal base layer (long sleeve top & leggings)

2 Rohan short sleeve t-shirts, 1 long-sleeve top (breathable, light-weight & quick-drying)

2 pairs of Rohan trousers (1 hiking, 1 straight-leg)

Jeans

3 summer dresses/tops

Bikini

4 pairs of hiking socks

Rain poncho

Sunglasses

Sports bra & underwear (synthetic)

Lough Gill, Co. Sligo & Co. Leitrim

Before setting off to Argentina on the 28th of December, I am spending a few days at home in Sligo, north-western Ireland. 

Making the most of the dry weather and scenic countryside, we set out towards Lough Gill and Parke's Castle, and on to to Fivemilebourne. This is the area where I spent the happiest days of my childhood - wandering the hills with my loyal companion, Henry (an Irish Red Setter). For me, this landscape represents freedom - from all constraints throughout my life. A place of retreat.

We set out along the R286

Parke's Castle

My Mother, and fellow wanderer

Looking out across Lough Gill

The house where my Grandfather was born, where my Mum and her siblings were reared, and where I spent a great deal of time as a child. The veneer of the house has changed significantly since the new owners took over. I can honestly say this is the only building in the world that I feel somewhat attached to...

The new residents

Lough Doon, near our family home
  We loop back down to Lough Gill and admire the everchanging view...

Lough Gill - inspiration for W.B.Yeats and the location of  the Lake Isle of Innisfree

Cloths of Heaven

Had I the heavens' embroidered cloths,
Enwrought with golden and silver light,
The blue and the dim and the dark cloths
Of night and light and the half-light,
I would spread the cloths under your feet:
But I, being poor, have only my dreams;
I have spread my dreams under your feet;
Tread softly because you tread on my dreams.

-W.B.Yeats

Wishing everyone a happy, healthy and peaceful Christmas and New Year!

One last Sling in Singapore!

A grumpy, middle-aged taxi man with pillar-box red streaks in his hair drives us from Changi airport (Changi is a type of tree) to our New Changi hotel. A miserable soul, who routinely coifs his locks in the rear mirror and overcharges us. We drop bags and head straight to Singapore Zoo for the night safari (opens at 7.30pm).

A good festive atmosphere around the zoo

River fish available for 'feet exfoliation'. yuck.

The backdrop to the scene is a thunder and lightning storm (monsoon season), which results in the Creatures of the Night Show being cancelled to our dismay. Despite the stormy weather the park is jam-packed, and we take the tram tour.  Unsurprisingly, it doesn't compare to the wonders of real safari but nevertheless it is a nice way to spend an hour. There are many unusual creatures to be seen (but no flash photography allowed, so no pictures for you). 

Can just about make out the flamingos...

Never mind the sleepy lions and leopards, the highlight for us is the red giant flying squirrel! So cool!!

Afterwards, we go straight back to the hotel, hot tired and without appetite.

Leaking Lao-Lao does not make it past Singapore.

Next morning, we lay until 9am (very late for us!), pack up our belongings (last time!) and leave the dismal hotel. We dander down the Changi Road and jump on a bus (number 7 seems like a good choice). I have left the map back at the hotel so we decide to hedge our bets and get off at a stop where lots of other people get off! Ugh it's so humid and sticky.

A soya frappe latte something or other for breakfast

The City Hall

We stumble upon the central area - visiting St. Andrews cathedral on the way. 

Then, we do the ultimate tourist thing and go to Raffles Hotel for a Singapore Sling. 

Quite a smart place, but yet folks must through their monkey-nut shells on the floor. Nut shells crunch underfoot and speeded-up versions of Frosty The Snowman and other Christmas pop classics reverberate around the bar. Strange. The best bit? Most definitely the fans on the ceiling. 

We savour every mouthful of this $1-a-sip drink!

Elegant fans on the ceiling

Not so elegant monkey nut shells on the floor

Just like Patong!

Pretty flowers

It is raining heavily outside, but I've got my poncho! We wander down a very clean street and see a GIANT rat, eeeew! The only rat we have seen on our travels. 

We visit the Asian Civilisations Museum to wander through the permanent collection of art, jewelry and sculpture and then to the special photography exhibition,"Neither East nor West".  

We are just in time for an English-speaking guide. This museum is fantastic and the guide is knowledgeable and interesting. The two hours we spend here make our flying visit to Singapore all the more worthwhile! 

The best bit is this picture and the story behind it!......

The story of Cowherd and Weaver Girl...

.....In late summer, the stars Altair and Vega are high in the night sky, and the Chinese tell the following love story. A young cowherd named Niulang (Chinese: 牛郎; pinyin: niú láng; literally "the cowherd", the star Altair) happens across seven fairy sisters bathing in a lake. Encouraged by his mischievous companion the ox, he steals their clothes and waits to see what will happen. The fairy sisters elect the youngest and most beautiful sister Zhinü (simplified Chinese: 织女; traditional Chinese: 織女; pinyin: zhī nǚ; literally "the weaver girl", the star Vega) to retrieve their clothing. She does so, but since Niulang has seen her naked, she must agree to his request for marriage. She proves to be a wonderful wife, and Niulang a good husband. They lived happily and had two children. But the Goddess of Heaven (in some versions Zhinü's mother) finds out that a mere mortal has married one of the fairy girls and is furious and orders her return to Heaven. (In another version, the Goddess forced the weaver fairy back to her former duty of weaving colorful clouds in the sky because she could not do her job while married to the mortal.) Down on Earth, Niulang is very upset learning that his wife is gone. Suddenly, his cow begins to talk telling him that if he kills him and puts on his hide, he will be able to go up to Heaven to find his wife. With tears flowing, he killed the cow, put on the skin and carrying his two children with him and off he went to Heaven to find Zhinü. The Goddess found out he had come and was very angry. Taking out her hairpin, the Goddess scratches a wide river in the sky to separate the two lovers forever (thus forming the Milky Way, which separates Altair and Vega). Zhinü must sit forever on one side of the river, sadly weaving on her loom, while Niulang watches her from afar and takes care of their two children (his flanking stars β and γ Aquilae or by their Chinese names Hè Gu 1 and Hè Gu 3). But once a year (Valentine's day) all the magpies in the world take pity on them and fly up into heaven to form a bridge (鵲橋, "the bridge of magpies", Que Qiao) over the star Deneb in the Cygnus constellation so the lovers may be together for a single night, the seventh night of the seventh moon. It is said that if it rains on the night of Qi Xi, they are the tears of Niulang and Zhinü crying at the misery of their life.

Reminds me of a certain Grump that I know... 

and I discover I am breaking all the rules of how to be a good daughter...

Afterwards, we have just enough time to walk along the Singapore river, passing by the empty bars and restaurants of the Boat Pier. As expected the city, it is all very clean and orderly, and there are lots of skyscrapers and Ferrari's. 

They are very tall!

We are really tight for time, and it takes 40 minutes for us to find a taxi willing to pick-up (turns out there is a congestion charge for pick-ups in the centre). Grab our bags at the hotel, and we dash to the airport. Still no appetite, so no food at all for us in Singapore (a pity as I've heard it is delicious).

Big queues for our busy flight

Our journey home takes a merry while, via Abu Dhabi again. I manage to sleep quite a bit, but poor Mother is less successful.

We touch-down in London Heathrow airport at 6am (according to the Telegraph, the coldest day of the year!). It is a wonderful crisp, frosty morning and we are just in time for sunrise. 

Home sweet home!

We arrive back at the flat and conveniently the Council has erected a Christmas tree outside my kitchen window (well that saves me having to put one up!). 

Tea, newspaper, radio, followed by brunch at The Providores, Marylebone. Ah it's so good to be back.....

Exit strategy from Singapore

Happy Birthday to Thailand's King Bhumibol Adulyadej. I hope he is feeling better soon....

Political unrest remains in Thailand, but Suvarnabhumi airport in Bangkok is now open. 

Unfortunately, we have missed our original flight so Etihad Airways has recommended that we fly to Singapore (and then on to London via Abu Dhabi). Back to London on Sunday - really looking forward to it!! Wish we could click our fingers and skip all this travel malarky though. 

It's all gone a bit Patong!

We remain in Patong, Phuket.......until further notice from Etihad Airways. The weather is lovely and sunny today - so aside from the uncertainty we cannot really complain!

Diving at Phi Phi Islands

On Saturday, I organise a diving trip with Dive Asia.

Mum is suffering very badly with heat rash so is going to stay indoors for a couple of days, which is a pity as there really is nothing to do but read or watch Oprah and The Nanny. 

It's the morning of the trip, I wait and wait but alas no pick-up truck appears. After a number of confused phonecalls, it turns out they have forgotten about me :-( So after quite a lot of comotion, it is decided that a taxi should bring me to the pier in Chalong Bay. Arrive at the pier, hand over the 400 baht decided prior to getting in the cab but realise I am locked in the car and the driver is demanding that I pay him 600 baht! I am not in the mood for this nonsense! 10 minutes of assertive Elaine demanding to be let out of the car, and I am free (paying the original price of 400 baht). Arrive at the pier and there is no-one there but a few locals who inform me I am "toooo late, tooooo late". Arrrgh I'm so annoyed, and ring the dive centre again.....and then, B, one of the dive instructors appears from somewhere....... wohooo, I'm aboard & ready to dive!!

There are two islands, Phi Phi Ley (the smaller, less developed one where the super-hot Leo DiCaprio walked upon the shores of Maya Bay during the filming of The Beach in 2000) and Phi Phi Don (the larger, more developed island). Both islands were badly destroyed during the tsunami (2004). 

There is a great bunch of people on board.

The team: Horsz, moi, Benedict, Ton & Roman (my buddy)

Our first dive of the day is at Koh Dok Mai. Sorry no pictures from these dives so you will have to use your imagination. We see butterfly fish, giant trevally, yellow boxfish, sponge, amazing coral and much, much more that I cannot remember!

Second dive, at Bida Nok, where we see stingray, leopard shark, sea snakes, trumpet fish, and giant moray eels.

Third dive, at Maya Beach. Another lovely dive, visibility is not great but we find an ornate ghostpipe fish, anenmone crab, a great baracuda (hunting) and my all-time favourite a TURTLE!! We see lots of clown fish (Nemo!) and I get excited every time.

The approach to Maya Beach

Ton (our lovely instructor) & Horsz (Italian team member)

Wet patches posing for a cheesy shot

Good students completing logbooks

We all get on so well that we decide to meet in Patong later that night (I cannot persuade Mother to join us as she is not feeling too well). We have lots of fun & visit many of the various bars & shows on offer....beginning in Scruffy Murphy's.....

Elaine, Dusanka, Ralf, Pete & Benedict (clockwise)

Benedict, Turlough, Jeff, Elaine, Ralf, Dusanka & Pete

Bars around Bangla Road

Day trip to Phi Phi Islands with Mum (December 1st!)

Next morning bright and early (6am wake-up call), Mother and I are going to Phi Phi Islands - this time via speedboat.

The departure pier at Roong Aroon (not so glam as Chalong Bay!)

The itinerary is shared by Eddie (our Leo look-a-like tour guide)

Phi Phi Ley & Maya Beach

I've been on a few speedboats in my time, but nothing so bumpy as this one! Seriously, our backsides were lifted a couple of feet in the air and we got very, very wet! The water is choppy and the skies are grey - still a beautiful place.

Around Maya Bay

First steps on Maya Beach

Despite the clouds, the water is heavenly

After a couple of hours sleep and too many beers, floating in the ocean for an hour is absolute paradise on earth (obviously the beautiful beach and scenery enhance experience immensely). I think these may have been the most relaxing moments of my life!

Next, we are snorkeling around Maya Bay. After a few minutes, Mother is in her element! Lots of little fishies!

How the hell does this thing work?!

Clear, clear water

Viking cave - where security protect the Bird's nests

Glowing from a dip in the salty water

Monkey Beach

Next we go to Monkey beach, where there are lots of.....monkeys and tourists. They are grumpy and just hang out at the beach in order to grab watermelon from the boat-loads of tourists.

Monkeys 

Phi Phi Don

We stop at the larger Phi Phi island for lunch - it's also very pretty.

Then on to Khai Island, where we spend two hours snorkeling and milling around the beaches.

Then back to Patong, it was a really nice day out! Mother is feeling much better today. 

Our local shopping centre, Junyceylon, has an interesting sign for their disabled toilets.

Back home in time for happy hour, Singapore Sling.....we've had enough Mai Tai! 

After days of not knowing when we will be able to leave Thailand and numerous phonecalls to Trailfinders (who have been fantastic - especially Paul in Cardiff!) and Etihad Airways....the breaking news is that the protest has been called off. Now, we shall wait to hear from the airline when we will be able to fly. We have looked into flights from Singapore and Malaysia but all flights to London are booked until Sunday. 

Meanwhile, I guess we will just have to lie in the sun and wait.......!

Christmas Lights.

This evening we go to the Christmas lights being switched on at the Millenium Resort, in aid of the Sussex House (charity set up to support children who have been left orphaned from tsunami). 

Speeches....

Lights....

Food.....

We buy gingerbread cookies (inside the gingerbread house) and I am eating on at the moment (tastes delicious)!

I get a haircut today and the hairdresser asks 'originaaaal?', yes, yes I reply. 'OOOOooh' he exclaims excitedly....'originaaal oraaaange!!'.  Yup, 100% originally orange.

Then its party-time with the dive crew.

It all started off very civilised...with some Tiger beers at Scruffy's.

Mama-san, Elaine, Benedict and Nico (the Belgians)

Ralf & Dusanka (the Germans)

Mike singing with passion!

The very lovely, B (dive instructor)

The traditional-pop fusion band is great!! 

Mike and Turlough hatching a plan of mischief

The sun is rising........and still we are not ready to go home!