We arrive to the tiny town of El Chalten, which is situated inside the Parque de los Glaciares. The bus brings us directly to the park information centre where we are briefed with park rules and provided with a (semi-dodgy) map. We learn that there is great excitement in the town, their first ATM has arrived and has been in full functioning order for the past two weeks!
Reccommended by the previous hostel, we are staying at Albergue Patagonia - probably our favourite hostel so far on the trip.
Albergue Patagonia
Tidy as ever! ;-) no comments please....
We spend the day getting our camping rental equipment and food for trekking sorted (pasta, pasta, pasta!). Once organised we pop into the microbrewery for a pint of homemade Pilsner (free popcorn and nuts!). It is cold and windy here, we make a quick dash inside for shelter!
Despite bad weather warnings (rain and cold temperatures) we set off the next morning with a plan to trek for three days....
A map of the local area
Day 1: Piedra del Fraile (a mere 6km, 2 hours trekking in gale winds & rain)
We get the bus to the road of Lago Desierto (and resentfully pay $50 pesos for the pleasure) and set off in the torrential rain. Irina has only got a few days left until she returns to London, so we want to see as much as possible, rather silly logic really as the torrential rain and heavy mist prevent us seeing much more than a few feet in front of ourselves!
Somewhere underneath that poncho is me, setting off on our first trek
However, there is some sense to our plan, after 2 hours of hikking we will pitch our tent at the (private) campsite of Piedra del Fraile where there is a refugio, where we can get some shelter if needed, and then continue trekking to Lago Electrico. The weather continues to deteriorate, and by the time we reach the refugio the rain is unbearable and the campsite is flooded.
Shelter!!!!!
Flooded campsite
We dash inside the wood cabin, and spend the next few hours defrosting by the little stove, drinking tea. We continue to observe the weather, debating whether to continue trekking. We venture outside in the gale force winds and cook up some pasta on our stove behind one of the shelters, pitch our tent with freezing fingers and then run back inside to dry off again....
Fingers turn blue as the snow begins to fall
A shot of whiskey does the trick! ;-)
Oh dear.....all table manners have been washed away with the rain!
We decide it is not sensible to continue, and read our books inside until dinner time.
During the evening, suddenly the sun appears, the rain stops and all is calm for about 15 minutes - everybody runs outside, shrieking with delight and admiring the surrounding view that we had not yet seen! Short-lived fun, and the rain begins again. Typical Patagonia where the weather can change in seconds. We retire to our tent at 9pm, and face an unpleasant and sleepless night where temperatures drop severely and snow falls on our leaking tent.
Day 2: Poincenot, Fitz Roy & the steep slope to Laguna de los Tres (est 16km, 7 hours trekking)
A little groggy, we set of the next morning with brilliant sunshine and snow falling - we look to the sky to see a rainbow, which we decide is better named a snowbow. The landscape is spectacular. Adam has heard that there is a short-cut to Poincenot, however we miss the turn (how predictable!) and end up trekking across country for a couple of hours, unsure of whether we have rejoined the path or whether we are simply following the trails of the rangers.
Trekking cross-country in search of a path...
More navigation problems...."I'm sure it's this way!"
Grrr, these little pests keep sticking to our socks and trousers!
Blue sky appears.....temporarily
We begin crossing some boulder terrain, certain we must be on the wrong path... Then, magically we bump into Mike and Harriet, an American couple from the campsite, we are headed the right way!
We take advantage of the situation - group photo!!
We come across another glacier....and the sky changes yet again
With every mile the terrain changes, from boulders, glaciers, mountains, grasslands and finally to woodlands.
Hiding from Adam
Crossing the bridge to Poincenot
We pitch our tent, and Adam cooks up a storm. It is so cold!!
Adam, the grumpy chef
Happy Campers! Hot drinks all around
We warm ourselves around our mini-gas stove and set off (without heavy backpacks wohooo!) up the steep and rocky path to Laguna de los Tres, the tough climb is worth every step for the spectacular views over the Fitz Roy masif. During summer, the famous Fitz Roy mountain, originaly names El Chalten (literally meaning smoking mountain) is rarely without a band of cloud. We are extrememly lucky, we sit and wait and the cloud lifts to unveil the jagged edge of this majestic mountain - so steep that snow cannot stick to the peak.
Spectacular views on the way up to Laguna de los Tres
The weather is perfect!
Fitz Roy, the smoking mountain (originally called El Chalten)
The three muskateers..
Hugs to keep warm
We contemplate hanging around for sunset but it is freezing up here, and the thought of stumbling back down the dangerous descent was enough to prevent us from lingering. Back at the campsite, more pasta, extra thermals, a drop of whisky and we sleep soundly.
Day 3: Laguna Torre and Cerra Torre (est 28km, 8 hours trekking)
We set off early, and our bleary eyes lead us in the wrong direction - damn, we are an hour behind schedule! Back on track we pass Lagunas Madre e Hija, through woods, grassy terrain and rocky corridors and we arrive at the cross-roads for Camping de Agostini/El Chalten.
Fed up with carrying our heavy bags we hide them in the bushes, and set off on the 2 hour roundtrip to Laguna Torre, with lovely views over Cerro Torre and the glacier. There are many more clouds today, and a haze is beginning to descend hiding a clearer view. I exclaim that 'it is chilly', when Irina promptly corrects me 'no, no it's Argentina!'...ha-ha! After some well-deserved cake overlooking the lake, we turn back, pick up our bags and begin the last 2 hour trek of our circuit.
Last 2 hours!
The sun pounds down upon our weary backs, but the lure of steak and wine quicken our pace. We literally skip down the hill that leads into El Chalten - wohooo, shower and food!
The welcome sight of El Chalten!
Skipping our way closer to a juicy steak!
It has been a wonderful few days of trekking, and we are feeling good! Tonight, we catch up with some people whom we met in El Calafate, make a BBQ in the cold winds, and party until the early hours at the local watering hole, Aires - fun, fun, fun!
BBQ!!!!!!!! No pasta in sight
Delcious!!!
Party at Aires....with lots of dreadlocks
Next day is a bit of a wipe-out! A day of recovery is needed, and we just about manage to check emails and cook more steak in the evening! Today is Irina's last full day, and I will be very sorry to see her leave - my wonderful travel companion who has been suppportive, good company and open to every suggestion - even when she was so tired that she fell asleep, mid-conversation sitting on a bar stool, determined not to miss any of the excitement!! ;-)
Irina the Ballerina
Together, we have explored the chic streets of Buenos Aires, celebrated New Year in the Lake District, rode horses through the sunflower fields of La Pampa, danced until 7am, eaten more than 20 steaks, trekked over glaciers, sampled local ice-cream and climbed many mountains while singing 'The hills are alive....with the Sound of Music'. It has been wonderful.
For me, a new chapter is beginning. Adam and myself are on our way back to El Calafate, and then on to Puerto Natales, Chile tomorrow....and we will be doing the 10 day trek at Torres del Paine national park.....more pasta, more sore feet - we must be mad!!
For once I wasn' too envious. That poncho will be able to make its own way round the world soon! Ana
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