Still bearing the scars from St.Patrick's Day (dodgy 'face' paint) when I arrive at Emma's
Living where they do, doing what they do
A Bolivian man and an English girl fell madly in love, produced two healthy, beautiful children and now live on the edge of a cliff in a mountainous valley on the outskirts of La Paz, devoting their professional lives to making Bolivia a fairer, more equitable society. They do not live behind high security walls, preferring to integrate with the local (mainly indigenous) community. Rolando is Head of Social Services for the country and Emma, leads Christian Aid in Bolivia. They are two of the most passionate and inspirational people I have ever met. They are living their dreams, remain in love and believe in power of positive action in the face of poverty and corruption. This is a challenging environment to live and raise children, but the children are obviously thriving. There is never a dull moment for this couple between early morning meetings with the President, Evo Morales, the Mayor's birthday party on Saturday and Sunday lunch with the Ambassador. At home, the family are supported with some home-help and a large friend-network. Viviana, does a fantastic job of keeping everything ticking along nicely and ensuring that everyday we all eat a nutritious, freshly cooked meal. The kids are adorable, but to protect their privacy I won't put pictures on here.
Looking back over La Paz on the drive to Emma's
The residence
Gifts from the Fairy Godmother are handed out
The Fairy Godmother herself
When I arrive I am informed that there are already 2 Elaine's in the house!
Fooobie Rooney
Chilling with Mom
Waking up is easy with a view like this (don't even have to get out of bed to enjoy!)
Breakfast on the balcony, my favourite part of the day
The view of the valley below
Viviana keeping everyone clean, fed & watered
Rafiki, who I fall in love with
and last but not least, this little barrel of laughs - Pooch (Vivi's pup)
Poochy-cuddles every morning
Sarah & I at El Pueblo Viejo, Zona Sur
Meanwhile, Ireland have won the Grand Slam for the first time in 61 years in a sensational climax to this year's 6 Nation's Cup!! Wohooo, at last some good news on the evening news!
Gorgeous Brian O'Driscoll with the convention prize for the winning team (see sheep story below!)
Situated a short drive from the Zona Sur, this landscape is how I imagine a lunar landscape might look like, and presumably those who named the valley imagined likewise. We go early morning to avoid some of the overbearing rays of the sun. It is incredible to imagine the formation of these jagged volcanic rocks over many thousands of years. Afterwards a charming elderly man plays haunting melodies on his charanga (small guitar) and then flute.
A good place for hide-and-go-seek!
The Devil's Molar
There is a predominent peak in the south of La Paz that dominates the skyline, known as 'The Devil's Molar'. On Sunday, which also happens to be Mother's Day at home, we climb to get a better look.
The Devil's Molar
Rafiki and I relaxing, post-picnic
Rafiki!
A close-up
This walk reminds me of walking the green mountains of home
Looking back onto the valley where Emma lives (not so green!)
Mallasa
After our walk in the morning, we have a delicious Sunday lunch at the Oberland Hotel (Swiss-owned, environmentally conscientious) in Mallasa, a small town 15 km south of the city. We are introduced to some of the family's friends, including some other Europeans who live here permanently. Given the occassion, we do a Round-Robin of the table each stating our Mother's names and raising a glass in her honour. Lots of love to my Mum in Sligo, Ireland xxx
Sampling the local brew, Saya (Gill from Ram Jam nextdoor)
After lunch it is time to go to the local football tournament in Mallasa where Rolando and Emma have been asked to donate a medium-sized sheep to the winning team. Sarah and I find this highly amusing! Certainly a more practical prize that a trophy....
Dolly
Valley of the Moon Children's Centre, Mallasa
Valley of the Moon Children´s Centre in Mallasa was originally set up by Emma 5 years ago with the money from an anonymous Mancunian donation. It is now a flourishing children's centre completely run and managed by local women caring for 87 children, aged 6 months to 6 years, from poor and vulnerable families from mainly indigenous families on the outskirts of La Paz.
The Centre is an incredibly special place, and has become a model for community based pre- school education in La Paz, providing services that respect and promote the rights and culture of children. It also provides integral services to support the children's families in the community by providing training to the mums who are looking for work, many of them who are single and particularly vulnerable and poor.
Valley of the Moon Children´s Centre in Mallasa was originally set up by Emma 5 years ago with the money from an anonymous Mancunian donation. It is now a flourishing children's centre completely run and managed by local women caring for 87 children, aged 6 months to 6 years, from poor and vulnerable families from mainly indigenous families on the outskirts of La Paz.
The Centre is an incredibly special place, and has become a model for community based pre- school education in La Paz, providing services that respect and promote the rights and culture of children. It also provides integral services to support the children's families in the community by providing training to the mums who are looking for work, many of them who are single and particularly vulnerable and poor.
I am amazed by how friendly and happy the children are - they call Sarah and I 'Tia' which means 'Auntie'. The organisation and cleanliness of the centre is outstanding - you could eat your dinner off the floor! Emma's vision, and the local women's ability to put the vision into practice is inspirational and gives me hope that things can get better. These poorer families have the same right to high-standards of education and care as anyone else.
Unfortunately, the centre is somewhat a victim of its own success, in the sense that investors overlook the centre for funding because it appears to being doing so well. In fact, the centre is struggling for money - forcing the local women to think of creative ways to stretch each Bolivano. Many of the toys and muscial instruments are made from recycled materials (even llama toe-nails are used to make a shaker!).
Click here on link to go to the Centre's webpage http://boliviavalleymoonchildren.or and please support if you can. All money goes directly to the Centre - unlike most charities there are no administration costs. The money will go right to where it is needed and you will see the progress and get reports about how the centre is growing via this web page.
Click here on link to go to the Centre's webpage http://boliviavalleymoonchildren.or and please support if you can. All money goes directly to the Centre - unlike most charities there are no administration costs. The money will go right to where it is needed and you will see the progress and get reports about how the centre is growing via this web page.
The playground (spot the Devil's Molar in the background?)
The education centre - all of which was designed and purpose-built by the local Mothers
These little cuties sing their favourite song for us
Moi, looking rather Mother Theresa-esque!
Emma takes a couple of days off work, so we take the opportunity to go on a shopping trip in the centre of La Paz. I have been here before, but what a difference it makes to have a local guide! Emma knows where to get the best quality goods for fair prices, introducing us to fair-trade galleries and antique shops laden with exquisite fair (the contents of colonial homes presumambly). The highlight of the day is when a group of school boys shout 'Spice Girls' at us!
Ginger Spice, Baby Spice......
and here's Posh!
Emma bargains for a new rug
Afterwards we meet friends & neighbours for lunch at Star of IndiaMamani Mamani is a colourful indigenous artist in Bolivia. He is the first successful indigenous artist to have acclaimed such success - his art has been exhibited around the world, including shows in Washington, D.C., Tokyo, Munich, and London. His paintings draw upon his Aymaran heritage, and include colorfully stylized images of indigenous mothers, condors, suns, and moons, among other themes. The use of strong vibrant colors is similar to the colors featured in the traditional hand-made blankets that are widely used by the indigenous people of the Bolivian Altiplano. His use of indigenous symbols is especially significant in the South American context where indigenous cultures have been viewed as inferior to European culture. First, we visit the permanent collection and shop at San Miguel, later we visit his most recent work at the National Museum of Art. His work will not suit every living room, but I enjoy much of his work - especially the earlier pieces where mothers and babies are a reccurring theme. Paintings are not cheap, with the smallest selling for $500 USD.
Permananent gallery & shop, San Miguel
This little monster points out her favourite pieces!
Films a-plenty!
One thing I have missed whilst travelling has been watching movies and going to cinema on a regular basis. So I make up for lost ground, watching the following: Slumdog Millionaire, The Secret Life of Bees, The Reader, Love in the Time of Cholera, Marley and me, Amores Perros, Vicky Christina Barcelona, and August Rush.....enjoying every single one! And whoa the joy of being able to sit on a comfy sofa and watch the evening news with kitten/pup curled-up on my lap!
Observations around the city
La Paz is undeniably a crazy city. I am forever in a state of awe here! The alititude (3,660 m), the backdrop of the snow-capped Illimani mountain (guardian of La Paz) and the seemingly treachorous way that houses are built into the side of the valley. A walk around La Paz certainly leaves me breathless, every street is a hill and on every hill there is a thick black smog trailing after the last 'Micro' bus that has chugged by.
Observations around the city
La Paz is undeniably a crazy city. I am forever in a state of awe here! The alititude (3,660 m), the backdrop of the snow-capped Illimani mountain (guardian of La Paz) and the seemingly treachorous way that houses are built into the side of the valley. A walk around La Paz certainly leaves me breathless, every street is a hill and on every hill there is a thick black smog trailing after the last 'Micro' bus that has chugged by.
A quiet street in La Paz
There are street-kids dressed up as zebras to help people to cross the road. There are men wearning balaclavas and hoods sitting on every corner, polishing the shoes of suited-businessmen. They hide their faces because the work is seen as the lowest of the low. Progress is being made and now all the guys belong to a network, publish their own newspaper and go to school in the afternoon. Often around the city the statues and monuments will have a balaclava covering the hero, the calling card of the shoe-shiners network!
Shoe-shiner clad with scary balaclava
Emmersed in fruit and vegtables
Chulita Lady dressed in traditional dress
Emma tells us that children are beginning to be christened some rather unusual names such as Microsoft and Madeinusa (i.e. Made in USA) here. Swearing in Bolivia is not adhered to, and there is no such thing as 'toilet-humour'! On the whole, Bolivians on the whole are reserved and gentle. However, there has been an increase in crime over the past 5 years, and many of Emma's friends have been mugged.
South of the chaos and colour of the centre is the Zona Sur and San Miguel, where there is a 2x2 mile suburb where the wealth of La Paz is concentrated. Hollywood mansions are the norm, surrounded by high rise walls for protection and private security guards standing outside each gate. Glamorous 'yummy-mummies' zoom around in their slick new SUVs or Ferraris. Coffee-shop culture prevails and there are boutiques selling imported clothes everywhere. We are told that the middle class and 'beautiful' tend to go to certain clubs, rarely in the city centre where the backpackers hangout. In fact, the general view of backpackers and the so-called 'high-budget, adventure travellers" tends to be negative, despite the money they bring to the city. Many locals are oblivious to the fact the tourists visit San Pedro prison. There are lots of pampered dogs with fitted jackets, and as one drives out of the Zona Sur, the streets are named after drinks e.g. Calle Capari.
Here is the place of passionate Latin love affairs, where the drama is equivalent of an episode of Desperate Housewives. Sarah and I pick the children up from their American school where there are yet more glamorous, designer 'Moms' and teachers who could easily be mistaken for students.
For a trial-period, Sarah and I become the 'ladies-who-lunch', drinking expresso by day and sipping on Chuflay (Singani & ginger ale) by night.
Ladies who lunch - eating llama carpaccio!
The vast extremes of wealth and poverty make me feel guilty. My fingers are crossed that Evo Morales and people like Rolando and Emma continue to lead positive change. Bolivia is, afterall, a weathy country with vast oil reserves and natural resources - at the moment that wealth is benefitting very few.
Staying with Emma and spending time with Sarah has been one of the highlights (yes, I know there have been many!) of my trip so far.
Lady Sarah G of England, as she became known!
Lady Irish
I think the timing has been perfect, I had not realised how exhausted I was! Sharing rooms every night in often noisy hostels does not assist with peaceful sleeping. Meeting new people everyday and queueing for the bathroom is exhausting. Not checking for bedbugs, having a hairdryer/mirror and being confident in the fact that I will not wake up to some weirdo who is trying to take a photograph of me while I sleep... are all things I used to take for granted! I'm laughing, I'm not complaining - I have been having a wonderful time travelling - all I'm saying is I know how to appreciate a few home comforts and giant bear hugs when offered from chocolate-covered paws or tiny fingers!
The weather has been gloriously sunny every day, and we have made good-use of the balcony over looking the mountains. I feel entirely relaxed, full of the vitamins and minerals of a well-balanced diet and well-rested. On the day of my departure, Bolivia beat Argentina 6:1 in a football game! Yay!
Cheering for Bolivia, whilst assisting with the homework!
Looks like you had a gret time RD!! you looking seriously skinny in your pics too
ReplyDeletesee you in Bogota soon! x