Preparing for a 10-day trek....
Preparation for our adventures begin in El Calafate. We land ourselves in a little shop on the outskirts of town, called Calafate Fishing where a very helpful, jovial chap kits us with a fishing rod & accessories (spools, lines etc.). He then rolls out his stock of camping equipment. We make some calculations and by all appearances it will be cheaper to buy our tent & sleeping mats here, and then rent sleeping bags and cooking equipment in Puerto Natales for time needed. Another bearded gentleman enters the shop, overhears us talking about Torres del Paine and tells us that he has just returned from there and kindly draws us a map of the best fishing spot within the park - Rio Serrano. He shows us pictures of the 28kg salmon that he caught!!
All set!
The following day we leave for Puerto Natales, Chile. We pass bleak areas of steppe for most of the journey - although about 40km before the border we see small lagoons and salt flats with flamingos and guanacos. The border checks are rather tedious and we have to surrender our honey and quinoa (plant/animal products). The border is a good place to get food hand-outs - many tourists are running around offering bananas, oranges and other treats!
View from the bus
Arrival to Puerto Natales, Chile
We arrive at Puerto Natales. We do not get off to a good start. The hostel, Nico II cannot find our reservation, for what seems like ages. We wander around looking for a restaurant (we are starving) and we cannot find a restaurant to serve us (11pm on Sunday). To top it all off the guy at the hostel tells us that it has rained solidly for the past 2 weeks so it is not possible to walk the circuit at Torres del Paine national park as many of the paths are flooded and there is snow on the pass. We go to bed hungry and grumpy (me especially) :-(
Next morning, we learn the hostel is full booked so we need to make alternative arrangements. We move on to Lili's Patagonicos, a very chilled-out place where the reception area walls are decorated with a brightly-coloured climbing wall and in the garden there is a tight rope. There is a little dog called Luna who smiles from ear to ear every time we return :-) I am in an all-girls dorm with three Israelis who like to talk, a lot.
We stroll along the seafront which is very pretty. In Patagonia, the clouds are fascinating and dramatic. Land and and sky stretch eternally ahead, reducing my delusions of grandeur significantly.
How could one be bored with skies like this?
Along the coast, Puerto Natales
Nice and flat trekking terrain - the problem lies with the aggressive mosquitoes!
War wounds? Just one teeny little blister on my little toe
Spectacular sky
The sun sets as we bid our farewells to this beautiful nature reserve
Adam skimming stones
We organise a bus transfer to the park for the following morning, pick up last remaining food goodies, rent sleeping bags and cooking equipment (with gas). We buy enough food and gas to last us 10 days (just in case!), we are hoping that the park guards will tells us that we can proceed as planned, otherwise we will do the shortened version, the 'W'.
Here is a map of the park:
Map of Torres del Paine
There are a number of possible walks within the park. The most popular are the 'W' and 'Paine (grande) Circuit'. The guidelines are as follows:
The Circuit
This trail circles the Paine Massif, at the highest point climbing to 1,350 masl, passing by rivers, lakes and glaciers such as Grey, Dickson and Perros. Duration time: 7 to 10 days of hike, distance 100km (difficulty level: high-medium).
The 'W'
The 'W' is the shorter equivalent, where one should allow 4 days to complete (difficulty level: medium).
We want to do the Circuit, but will have to wait for weather and trekking information at the park administration centre.
Camping and trekking at Fitz Roy was really good preparation for us - we are fitter and more organised this time!
Food for the trip
Breakfast: porridge, raisins & honey
Lunch: Wholemeal and sesame (treat) crackers with salami or peanut butter (jarred energy)
Dinner: Pasta, ravioli, tomato sauce (treat) rice or soup - basically nothing that takes more that 10 minutes to cook (lessons learned: cooking in the cold = not fun)
Snacks: Cereal bars, biscuits, one cake (treat)
Drinks: Tea, cup-a-soup, whiskey
Supplies for the trek
Mate (mah-tay) is the hot drink of choice here in Chile, but also in Argentina and Uruguay. Basically an infusion containing stimulants such as caffeine (or mateine?). It's prepared by steeping dried leaves of yerba mate. I, like Bruce Chatwin, have a love-hate relationship with the stuff! It is very bitter, but yet strangely satisfying! It is supposed to make one feel more awake and act as an appetite suppresant, in addition to reducing blood pressure and easing digestion!
Tips for drinking mate
1. Mate is for sharing with friends and family
2. Understand the role of the server (the server fills up the gourd, drinks the first cup himself, refills and passes on the next cup clockwise).
3. Do not say thanks (unless you do not want any more!)
4. Don't touch the straw (some servers take offense to having their bombilla touched as it indicates that they have not served the mate in the best way)
5. Add sugar or mint to taste
The evening before we leave for the park, we go to 'El Maritimo' restaurant who apparently serve the best seafood in town.
New location
Given that our diet for the next week is likely to consist mainly of dried food, the strategy is to feast on protein! Despite the recent relocation to downtown Puerto Natales (rather than seafront), the table cloths are still chequered green and white.
For appetiser, we share squid and a mixed Ceviche.
Adam & squid
Mixed ceviche (raw fish marinated with lemon or lime)
For main, we sample the seabass and salmon patillion which is served in tin-foil with garlic, peppers, onions and cheese. Very tasty!
Torres del Paine, National Park
The National Park is located 100km directly north of Puerto Natales, and covers 181,000 hectares. The park is famous for the craggy mountains of Torres del Paine, and is said to offer some of the best trekking in the world. So we are hear to see for ourselves! There are 3 entry gates, one administrative center and seven guard posts in various sectors of the Park
The origins of the parks name is in doubt - however, the word on the streets suggests that the word paine (pronounced pie-nee) means 'pale blue' in Telhuelche, perhaps referencing the colour of the glacial lakes? Good news, the rangers tell us the weather forecast is good for the next 4 days and that the Circuit is safe to complete - although the guy warns us about some river crossings and collapsed bridges....hmmm, this will certainly be an adventure!!
Fishing at Lago del Torro
Adam is a keen fisherman, and I am excited to learn. On the bus we meet an American couple who have just completed the Circuit who are also headed to Rio Serrano to fish. We spend some time chatting, and listening to stories of their recent adventures. The wind is strong, but the sun is shining and there are clear skies all around. From the river we have a wonderful view of the Torres (towers) and the Cerros (peaks). We fish for a couple of hours (no luck unfortunately!) and then walk 6km to the beautiful Serrano campsite but alas they turn us away, there is no room for us........
Idyllic fishing
We are so dissapointed, this is an amazing spot to camp and spend time. We rest for an hour in the sun (it is sheltered here), and then retrace our steps back to our starting point - very frustrating. Along the river, we meet some guys who have just caught a 10 kg salmon!
We catch the 6pm bus over to Camping los Torres, our plan B campsite, where we are carted across flooded fields in a variety of transportation. We pitch our new tent, and sleep soundly.
Cattle-truck across the floods
Water, water everywhere
OK, let the Grand Circuit commence!!!!!......
Day 1: Begin the Circuit: Camping los Torres to Camp Serron
Despite the best of intentions of setting off at dawn, we just about manage to cook porridge (with raisins & honey), pack up the tent and hit the road by 10:45am! It is a beautiful day - sunny, warm and mainly blue skies - much more pleasant that the weather we experienced around Fitz Roy.
Nice and flat trekking terrain - the problem lies with the aggressive mosquitoes!
Heavy, heavy bag!
The trekking is fairly easy today, but our bags are HEAVY (est. 17-20 kg). In terms of clothing we have one set of day clothes (what we are wearing now) and one set of night clothes (thermal long-johns & long sleeve thermal top). Along the trek we walk through what looks to be an idyllic valley covered in daisies. Rather deceiving - this valley is the hunting ground for the most belligerent mosquitoes either of us have ever experienced! Seriously these creatures attack in hoards and will not give up!! We are covered in deet, wearing long sleeves and marching quickly but that does not stop these creatures from trying to get a bite of our flesh.
Cara cara (scavengers that eat everything!)
Along the way we find Bob and Marley, our new walking sticks. Marley makes it until the end...however, Bob dies a sudden and dramatic death and is thus replaced by Bob II, a more sturdy and reliable prop. We sing quite a lot en route (not recommended if you want to see any pumas, guanaco etc.). Next time you are spending time with Adam, please do ask him for his best rendition of any Oasis track - highly entertaining!
We arrive at Camp Serron in time for lunch, we make friends with Heiko (great craic, quirky sense of humour, from Nothern Germany, currently PhD-ing in Glasgow, wears jeans permanently). We three have a lovely afternoon, chatting and cooking up a meal which tastes like heaven. The most exciting news of day: we can buy eggs!!
Serron campsite
Treat!!
Doesn't look quite so appealing now (but amazing at the time)
Adam and Heiko enjoying the evening glow
Daisy keeps the lawn mowed
Day 2: Campamento Serron to Refugio Dickson
What a breakfast treat we have today! Porridge with raisins and honey followed by scrambled eggs!! We are fueled for the next leg of the trek. Today is a longer trek, overall it is not to tough - aside from one section where there is a steep (short) pass. Many of the paths are flooded so we have to trek across country which adds on a little time.
Another angle of the Torres
The weather is fantastic.
Snacking on berries along the way (apparently all are edible in Patagonia)
Dickson (which I keep calling Dickenson, much to the confusion of others), the next campsite is set in a beautiful location - with views on to Dickson glacier and the surrounding mountains. It is at this campsite that we first encounter 'zee Germans', a couple who appear to be tracking our every move. "so you guys left at 9am today, ya?" "what time are you leaving tomorrow?" "Is that a microlite blah blah hi-tec jacket?" "Oh yeah we a super-duper blow-torch stove that cooks pasta in like 10 seconds"......etc.
Bored with the competition, we cook up dinner, followed by some tinned pineapple (treat!) which we buy at the refugio and then, retire to our tents early to escape the mosquitoes and hungry Germans.
Day 3: Refugio Dickson to Campamento Paso
After a good night's sleep we are feeling energetic - alas, the Germans have left already (was looking forward to some early morning giggles!). A pleasant morning stroll follows.
We arrive at Campamento Los Peros campsite to find the Germans waiting for us! "Ya, we have been here for like 2 hours already".... :-)
We have already decided that given our energy levels and the fair weather that we shall continue trekking today, and cross the infamous and much-feared 'John Gardner pass'!! Of course, the Germans are doing likewise "ya, we are definitely doing it now, we are not tired at all, we trek all the time you know?". So off they set clunking their poles and wrapped up in their super-duper hi-tec micro-lite gortex, wicking gear! Competitive, moi???!! ;-)
Quickly we cook up some corn soup, down a Berocca and stuff our pockets with cereal bars. Right we are ready for """"The Pass""""!! We are about 20 minutes from Los Perros when the wind picks up and the temperature drops.
The approach to the pass
For the next 2 hours we make our way to the top of the pass, which incidentally is not really so horrendous - well, aside from the headwind and gusts which were ridiculous! My rain cover becomes detached from my backpack (aside from one hook at the top), filling up with air and acting like a parchute! Aaargh I get knocked over onto my knees, there is no time for self-pity - I pick myself up, wonder how many holes in my trousers there are, tie back on the raincover as best as I can and get moving. At one point, there are a series of gusts so powerful that I have to crouch down to ground level, clinging to the rock surface - using all my energy to remain still! This is wind and sporadic gusts like I have never seen it. Adam calls out 'this way!', I yell back 'I have no control over the direction my body moves right now!!" - of course he can't hear a thing, so we just give each other a thumbs up.
Through snow we trek....
We arrive at the top of the pass - wohooo!! - words cannot express the magnificence of the scene that lies before us.
The top of the John Gardner pass
Wohoooo, we have made it to the highest point!!
We jump around, giggling, high on adrenaline and in awe of the beauty! A slurp from the hipflask, a lump of cake and we are ready to descend on the opposite side. This side of the mountains is much calmer. We are fairly tired at this stage and the steep downhill is a nightmare (for me the most demanding part of the entire circuit). I groan and moan with every step, this cannot be good for one's knees (especially give the extra weight on my back!). I feel the pressure on the blister on my little toe, ouch!! Are we nearly there yet?!!!!!1 From Los Perros to Paso takes us just under 5 hours. So in total, we have walked 10 hours today!
Glacier Grey - photos do not do it justice!
This cake tastes amazing
This campsite is busy - filled with large groups of Chilean students and a handfull of Israelis. The Germans are there to greet us - eating some food that looks amazing (I'm sure I see strawberries and rasberries - how on earth did they manage it?). We have ravioli with tomato sauce (treat!).
There are no showers or facilities here so we clean-up as best we can. Adam falls asleep at the stove! Tonight there is heavy rain and strong winds but our trusty tent keeps us safe and dry.
It's been a long day - Adam nods off while cooking!
Treat!!
Do not mess with the River Dance!!
Neither of us sleep well, due to the noise, heavy rain and knarling roots which seems to have been ignored when tent was pitched :-(
Day 4: Campamento Paso to Lago Pehoe
Not as achey as we imagined, we set off for Los Guardas, followed by Lago Grey. No sign of zee Germans. There are lovely views of the glaciers all morning, and wonderful forest walks on route to Lago Grey. It is still incredibly windy!
The wind makes the path a little tricky
Trekking through ravines
There are a couple of ladders to help us through particulary steep ravines
We sit at Lago Grey for a while, and decide that we should continue to Lago Pehoe (another 3.5 hours). The first 2.5 hours are fine, but both of us admit that the last hour is really tough due to our exhaustion. The views are splendid the entire path. Today, we rejoin the path of the 'W' and we notice that the 'W' trekkers are not so friendly :-( We say hello/hola/bonjour but alas many of them look at us blankly and continue clicking their trekking poles!
Catamaran to Laguna Amarga
At Lago Pehoe we are informed that the path between here and the Torres are flooded and we will need to wade (possiblly up to chest-level!!). We decide that we are far to tired for this malarky! We cheat, and catch the Catamaran to Laguna Amarga, and then get the bus to Campo Torre. Last night of camping!
Day 5: Camping los Torres, return to Puerto Natales
We rise early, (a little past sunrise) and walk (without backpacks!) to the viewpoint of the Torres...and make a schoolboy error: we leave cameras inside our rucksacks back at the campsite!! :-O
There is no denying we are tired, and in desperate need of a shower and a comfortable bed. With these creature comforts in mind, we dash back to Campo Torres, and begin the slow journey back to Puerto Natales by bus.
The scenery over the past few days has been stunning, and myself and Adam have had really good fun (discussing everything from relationships, the purpose of life, food and cult movies!). We were a little dissapointed that we could not buy wine or fresh bread at the campsites (previously available to other trekkers).
We did it!!
War wounds? Just one teeny little blister on my little toe
Spectacular sky
The sun sets as we bid our farewells to this beautiful nature reserveMy tips for Torres
Bring insect repellent (essential!!!!)
Do not walk straight through ponds - you may end up in deep water (neck-high if average-sized Chilean male, waist-high if 1.7m Irish female)
Expect every type of weather conditions
Buy food in Puerto Natales (do not rely on the refugios for fresh bread or wine!)
Bring a towel - there are a couple of places to have a shower en route (albeit cold-freezing depending on the site!)
Ensure that you are grumpy when following the 'W' path, and competitive when following the 'Circuit' and you will fit in just fine!
Back to Puerto Natales (for our sins)
We arrive back after 11pm, and we head back to Lili Patagonicos to pick up our bags and hopefully to get a bed for the night. There is no room in the dorm rooms, but there is a private room and we manage to knock off a few pesos of the price with Mattias, the hostel owner. After an amazing shower, and a cup of tea, we both sleep soundly in what seems like the world's most comfortable bed! Ah, bliss to be out of a tent! For the next two days, we plan to relax and do little!
I know there is quite a large focus of food on my blog (or so it has been pointed out!!), however during these next days in Puerto Natales little else happens that deserves comment.....
For lunch, a very raw, green, healthy salad with blue cheese dressing!!
For lounging, we head to El Living Cafe to drink mate or go to the internet cafe for banana milkshakes (it is amazing what one craves when camping!).
For dinner, a lamb BBQ at El Asador Patagonico.
Happy times
We look for a party in Puerto Natales - but no luck! Toore and Rupertos are supposedly the 'in-places' but aside from the barmen we are the sole customers. Probably best, we catch up on lots of sleep instead!
Empty chairs at empty tables...
After two days of meandering around this sleepy town in a state of relative boredom, we rise early to get the 10-hour bus to Ushuaia, the most southerly town in Argentina.....
