Saturday 25 April 2009

Bienvenidos a Cartagena de Indias (pt 2)

We are warmly welcomed back to the North Star hostel in Bocagrande, Cartagena. 
Bocagrande, Cartagena

Adam is waiting and eager to tell us all his recent escapades! We spend the evening having a good chin-wag and eating chicken at the famous Kokorico, hmmm! Adam orders a WHOLE chicken!
Greasy chops, gloves & a whole chicken!

There are lots of chains selling broasted, fried or barbecued chicken everywhere in Colombia (very tasty!). The following day my bank card does not arrive (it is floating around in Miami apparently). The flight from Miama to Cartagena is surprisingly cheap because it is such a popular route (here they call it "the silicon run"). The others have gone to La Isla Rosario so I head to the Surf club with Pedro on a mission to sell a surfboard. I try 'limonada de coco' and spend the next few hours relaxing near the beach, watching the surfers (talking to crazy beach-bums) and watching the waves crash against the Tierra Bomba. In the afternoon, we wander the Old City, a World Heritage site. It is like wandering around a film set! The buildings are so well preserved. There is a fantastic atmosphere here - people selling fruit, donkeys and carts, horses and carriages, vendors and people rushing around doing their errands. It is nice to have a local guide - spending time in bookshops, coffee-shops and wandering the various stalls and shops. Later I visit the modern art gallery in the Old Town which is well worth a browse.
Approach to the old town
Donde Fidel & La Candela
Wandering the Old City
Lemon Pie building
Rustic balconies

Colourful Mamas

Cartagena is just about the hottest place I remember being in my life! The humidity smothers me, all day, every day. This is not balmy, it is bloomin' boiling!!!! We all whinge about how sweaty and shiny we are, even late at night. It is time to say goodbye to Mauri as he travels back to Medellin, and then to Norway. Next day, myself and the Norwegian ladies have a day of shopping. The shops in the old city are wonderful - lots of boutiques with beautiful dresses, shoes, jewelery and bikinis. We are a bad influence on each other, and end up buying more that we should! And now that we have new dresses....we will have to go and dance some more to show them off!

Adam's Birthday celebrations begin this evening. We make a dash to the supermarket and prepare a spread.. lots of nibbles, wine and topped off with strawberries and champagne! The other guys in the hostel look on in envy as we three lovely ladies run around creating the feast!
Party nibbles!
We play '13' for the first time since Chile. Once again there is a really nice group of people at this hostel, and we have a good laugh. We go back to Tu Candela for more dancing!
Plaza de San Domingo
Birthday Boy & his fan-club, Tu Candela

The following day my bank card arrives, wohoo! Today is Adam's actual birthday (26 years today!). We spend most of the day at Club Nautico talking to various captains about sailing to Panama in the coming week - this turns out to be a huge effort on our part, far more complicated that we could have imagined and we end up spending a great deal of time at the Club over the next few days (more about this in my next entry).
Club Nautico, where we spend many hours trying to organise a boat-trip to Panama

There are not really so many things to do in Cartagena once the beach and Old City have been explored, so aside from hanging out at the yacht club, we relax. In the evening, we gather the troops and go to a very nice bar/restaurant called Cafe del Mar. There is great view of Old City, the 'new city' (high rise) and the ocean - and for the first time in days we finally cool down with the sea breeze!
Cafe del Mar

I eat Ceviche de Corvina for dinner, which is delicious. Suddenly there is a heavy rain shower, and we all have to squeeze inside. Once the shower passes, we move further into the Old City and get recommended a 'great bar' which actually turns out to be a strip-club where it costs $10.00 USD for a drink! Colombia is not cheap but that is ridiculous! With general consensus, we move swiftly along to another place. We spend the night dancing once more, the music really is too good to sit down! A good night is had by all. Some of us (less sensible folk) continue to another place later which turns out to be a mafia club, it gets a bit seedy. I am relieved to leave. There are some dodgy characters in this city, to say the least...
On every street, every Plaza there is music
and dance!
The most narrow street in the Old City
Adam and Angelica show us their moves!
We travelling-buddies pose for a picture
The Chicas

The next day, I decide that I need a change of scenery from North Star and move to another hostel in the centre of town - Media Luna Art Hostel. This hostel is brand-new (work not yet completed) and luxurious (Olwyn you would adore it!). 
Media Luna Art Hostel

Adam goes to Taganga and the Norwegians go to Playa Blanca, I decide to stay in the City. Not on my own for more that a couple of hours before I find out that "Canada" (aka Alan from Toronto) is in town and staying across the road. We have fruit smoothies, and wander the Old City (again!). I am starting to become oblivious to the comments from people on the street, and also, to the amount of people offering drugs. It is probably hard to imagine but I feel completely safe here walking around, despite being approached constantly. Colombians like to laugh, so as long as you smile, make a joke or keep walking there is never any hassle. There are more tourists here than anywhere else in the country, but we are still a novelty it seems! In the evening, a group of us head to Havana Club, Media Luna where there is a fantastic live band - salsa, cha-cha, rumba!
Havana Club

Canada sails off to Panama the following morning (he has chosen a smaller boat which we posh ladies are not willing to squeeze into!). The Norwegians return in the evening. I relax by the pool.
The food in Colombia has been a mixed adventure! The traditional dishes in the centre of the country, such as bandeja paisa and arrepa, are tasty but stodgy. They serve bananas with everything. The food is different according to each region as a result of climatic and cultural influences. Here in the north the fish and shellfish are fresh and delicious, whereas in the south the stews and soups are delicious. There are also many more Carribean and Indian influences in the cooking (and people) in the north. The differences between northern and southern Colombia are great. In the north people are darker, more laid-back and more gregarious, perhaps people are more sophisticated and westernised in Bogota and more genuine/down-to-earth around Medellin. These are big generalisations of course! The landscape, the food, the weather, the music, the architecture, the colours, the clothes - everything changes throughout the country which makes Colombia an interesting place to spend time. My favourite restaurant in Cartagena is El Bistro, in the Old City. For best value and delicious, my favourite is Crepes and Waffles, Bocagrande. I have also eaten in some dodgy-looking cafeterias in the backstreets around Media Luna which have been pretty tasty (and cheap). In one particular place the waitress told me what I was having without further discussion (it was a good choice though!). Some meals have been less than average. The fruit is outstanding, there many fruits which I had never tasted before.

After many days of talking and negotiating we have organised a trip on converted fishing boat with a French captain. We are very excited, but still have three days until we sail......anyone for a walk around the Old City?!?

Taranga..Tanjanja...Tanganga?!

We drive from Cartagena, through Barranquilla, to Santa Marta and finally to our destination, the small fishing village of Taganga. 
Taganga, situated a couple of kilometres outside of Santa Marta

I sleep through the bus journey, and after a quick scoot around we find some beds at the Bayview hostel, Taganga. Thank goodness for the sea breeze, it is so great to be out of the city. For such a tiny town, there are so many tourists. It has got a laid-back hippy-feel, an easy place to relax and more than likely stay longer than originally intended!
First glimpse of Taganga at sunset
The fishermen, forever busy with their boats

Helene and I are on 'mission-detox' so everyday we swim in the pool at 8am, followed by a 25- minutes mountain-walk to Playa Grande (the next beach along). Joe, our new English friend comes along and does semi-detox, washed down by 5 or so beers in the evening! ;-)
Main street, Taganga
Taganga beach, not so nice as Playa Grande

On the beach, we drink fresh fruit smoothies and eat fresh shrimp (with a dash of lime, Tabasco & red onions). 
Joe and Helene waiting for a very 'special' fruit salad!

The sea is fantastic to swim as there are few waves at Playa Grande (there are a few more at Taganga).
Helene & Joe (new friend, UK) reading on Playa Grande 
Three men in a boat

Marie and Mauri have decided to learn how to scuba-dive and are doing their PADI Open Water course. 
Marie getting reading for her first dive 

I really like Bayview hostal, maybe one of my favourites. I like the bright colours, breezy rooms and it seems to attract a really nice bunch of people (like ourselves!). 
Bayview hostel, Taganga

Over-looking our balcony is a type of farm - basically a yard filled with goats, donkeys and cock-a-doodle-doos. What a menagerie - the noise is incredible at various parts of the day and the cocks begin crowing earlier than 6am most mornings. On my first morning, I look out to see the farmer-man has just killed a goat - which is now hanging from a tree while he skins it right in the middle of the yard with all the other goats! How horrible. Inside the hostel there are big beanbags everywhere, so in the evenings we stretch out and read our books, or practice yoga on the balcony. We also try some of the restaurants along the beach. Marie and Mauri are very good students - even bringing their books along to the restaurants! 
Mauri reading about decompression sickness etc.
Our favourite restaurant, with a group of people from the hostel

I feel so relaxed! On Friday, Helene and I go diving at Tayrona National Park. It is so good to be in the water again, and we see lots of cool things on both dives. Including a big, grumpy barracuda. He circles us twice, annoyed that we have (accidentally) interrupted his nap and then leaves us. The colours are not so vibrant here as in Thailand or the Red Sea - but it is a nice (and cheap - £30 for 2 dives) place to dive. 
Back in the gear, happily under water

We debate about doing The Lost City trek near Santa Marta (which takes 6 days) and also about spending a few days in Tayrona park, but we have agreed to meet Adam on his birthday in Cartagena and to be honest we are quite content relaxing on a beach for a few days. On our last evening we go to 'El Garaje' and dance lots of salsa! 
Drinks overlooking the ocean 

Feeling healthy and fitter than when I arrived, we get the bus back to Cartagena, passing through Santa Marta once more. There are more horses/mules/donkeys and carts on the roads in Colombia than I have seen anywhere else in the world, we pass literally hundreds on the road back to Cartagena. Colombians don't seem to care so much for feeding their animals - here I have seen some of the skinniest creatures. We spoke to some guys who tried to feed the skin-and-bone dogs after dinner in Taganga, but the hounds didn't even give the meat a sniff, walking away with their tails between their legs. Someone suggested that all the dogs here are appetite-less cocaine addicts. Maybe. In this country, nothing is how one might expect. 

Bienvenidos a Cartagena de Indias (pt.1)

It is a fairly hefty bus ride from Medellin up to Cartagena, 13 hours or so. On route we have the worst meal consumed in South America - fish soup with eyes and bones followed by a chicken-wing with the consistency of concrete. We [Helene, Marie, Mauricio, James & I] arrive late and Luis, the night receptionist isn't sure whether they have beds for us. We sleepily grab a sandwich across the road, return and after some rearranging we have somewhere to rest our weary heads. We have a rather goose-pimpled night of sleep as the fierce AC blasts around the room. We are staying at North Star Backpackers hostel in Bocagrande.
North Star backpackers hostel

Bocagrande (meaning 'big mouth') is the most modern and one of the wealthiest areas of the city, a good place to be based. The next morning we take a stroll around - the streets are attractive and the area is laden with restaurants, bars, shops and coffee-shops. We are also right beside a beach (but it is not the nicest beach around).
Bocagrande

I have given North Star's address to Fed-Ex with the hope that they will manage to transport my new bank cards from my Mum's kitchen table in Ireland to Cartagena. One of my debit cards has been 'accidentally' cancelled by HSBC, and by 'back-up' card does not work in Columbia! Luckily my trusty friends are ensuring that I don't starve or go without a bed ;-)

After a quick stroll around we get a boat to Playa Blanca (a much nicer beach, 40 minutes by boat). It takes a long time to organise the boat. At one point we have about 10 guys each trying to drag us on their boat! We walk away many times, visit both harbours and eventually find a decent looking boat at the price we want...it is a bumpy ride across to Playa Blanca but we seem to be in capable hands.
Our chosen driver

I have not seen the sea since Ushuaia, the southern tip of Argentina - I have travelled from toe to tip of the continent!
Marie enjoys the boat trip between bumps!

It really is a beautiful beach. The water is clear, turquoise and the sand is white. The (only) bad element is the hawkers, who harass at every opportunity - selling all kinds of junk. We get an amazing massage, and have a lovely few hours relaxing.
I have arrived in paradise, at last!
Playa Blanca

We relax until James gets talking to a group of Colombians who invite us over for a chat and entertainment. After a beer and a few shots of rum, James and I are singing Irish songs (from Christy Moore to Van Morrison) and organising a céilidh (Irish dance session). Within minutes there are about 20 Colombians dancing the 'Walls of Limerick' under the blistering sun! Time to swap around, it's time for us to practice our salsa and reggaeton. Those of you familiar with reggaeton dancing can imagine how hilarious (ridiculous) we look! We keep dancing until our boat captain calls us aboard. It is an even bumpier ride back to Bocagrande now that the wind has picked up (and we have the bruises to show later!).
Colombia meets Ireland in a dance-off!!

We have an delicious dinner in an Argentine steakhouse - bringing back many happy memories from January. Back to the hostel, we relax on the terrace at the hostel until Pedro, the owner, invites us to a place called Donde Fidel, a salsa bar in the Old City.

Mauricio & Helene relaxing at North Star

Sitting outside amidst the beautiful buildings is fantastic - I instantly fall in love with the place - charming, beautiful and embedded in history. Continuing with the dancing theme, I get some lessons in salsa and rumba from Pedro. At first, I feel self-conscious in front of all the locals but after a few words of encouragement I let go! Later our ever-increasing group wander to Tu Candela, a nearby club. Here in Columbia the club-culture is very different; people go our in couples and dance with their partners - salsa, merengue, rumba or what ever takes their fancy. Despite this couple structure, eyes wander and comments are whispered. From what I gather neither the men or the women are faithful. Girls rarely go out alone (unless they are prostitutes - whom are equally abundant as the drug dealers in this city). It is a fun place, the music is good. The after-party continues back at the hostel until the wee-small hours. Which is all well and good until I realise I have an hour until my bus leaves for Taganga - a fishing town further along the Caribbean coast. Sensibly the Norwegians went to bed before midnight, and are looking fresh as daisies! Never mind, the bus has air-conditioning and my seat is comfortable so I put on my sunglasses and prepare for a four-hour snooze.

Friday 17 April 2009

Semana Santa, Medellín

Nothing too eventful happens. The city is quiet, most people have escaped to the countryside for the Easter holiday. Medellín is a big city. I stay at Tiger Paw hostel, beside restaurants, bars, the Metro station and Blue - a great rock club. I meet an Irish guy there, James from Kilarney, and we discover that we share mutual close-friends in Sligo. We (Helene, Marie, Mauri, Canada & James) sit in the park and drink Aquardiente (Raki-esque) in chupas - like the locals. We visit the Botero exhibition and sculptures in the park. We go to a dodgy looking Salsa bar downtown where people are searched for weapons, the men look like gangsters and the women look like (are?) prostitutes. They love music here and dance well. It seems the women are big fans of the colour pink (from candyfloss to raspberry) and tight (spray-on) clothing. The taxis are yellow, driving skills are minimal. I feel very safe here. On Easter Sunday I get a haircut and buy a new dress. I want to go and see a religious parade but it rains so I watch movies on a big plasma. I finish a book. We go to the famous club called Mangos where everyone wears cowboy-dress, there is sawdust on the floor and dwarfs dancing on the stage. In the bathrooms, stuffed horses' heads spray water for hand-washing. A girl tells me I need colour in my cheeks and covers me in rouge. The Macarena and Tweety-bird songs are played at 2am. We dance and leave, never to return or recommend. In most bars it is custom to buy a bottle of rum or whisky for the table, where everyone shares rather than buy individual drinks. People are friendly and attractive - voluptuous, sexy, charming. It rains every day and some nights. We discover the gem of a food-chain that is Crepes and Waffles - why has this not been snapped up in Europe? We try to take a cable car but it is broken. There are slum-areas and posh areas. I don't feel like taking photos. I read about Pablo Escobar, the famous criminal from Medellín. On the last night we meet up with Adam. It is really great to see him after a few weeks. 
From L-R: James, Adam, me & Canada

Next morning, myself & the Norwegians leave and take a 14-hour bus to Cartagena. My mind is preoccupied with excitement about being beside the sea. I'm sick of rain and inland places. Colombian chocolate tastes nice. 

Friday 10 April 2009

Coffee

We follow the instructions and take three buses from Manizales in the search of coffee. We make our way to Chinchina and ask to be dropped off at the church, where we hope to find another bus.
The church, the bus 
Chinchina

Then, onwards to Guayabal where "La Hacienda Guayabal" is situated. It is quite amusing to be dropped off in the middle of seemingly 'nowhere', without any signposts. There is only one path so we follow it.
The path
The church, which I initially think is a cattle corral
A local man & his birds

We following the path through a small community of houses and birds, climbing a hill and eventually arriving at the main building of the plantation site. All buildings are made from guadua, Colombian bamboo.
Perhaps it's that building up there?

Coffee fields 
Steep hills

We have a delicious meal, chat to the other people visiting and Diana, our guide, begins the tour. The location is beautiful, so green and hilly. Lots of fresh air, trees and pretty flowers.

Diana, our guide who speaks perfect English

We learn that Chinchina generally provides excellent weather conditions for growing coffee due to the micro-climate in the valley. The average temperature here is 21 degrees, which is ideal for coffee-growing. However in the past couple of years there has been heavier rainfall meaning less coffee production (in fact the last few weeks have been the worst for a decade and there is much evidence of damage from storms). Many farms have had to diversify their offerings in order to stay in business. At Guayabal, they have opted to open their plantation for tourists. On the day we visit, there are four other guests. The hacienda is well kitted out - with excellent lunch and tours in English or Spanish. So I imagine as tourism grows in Columbia, so too will the number of visitors to the plantation.

Here the farm employ workers to engage in manual-selective picking, rather than use machinery (as in Brazil). They say Colombian coffee is the smoothest in the world - with Germany, USA and Japan purchasing the bulk of the exported coffee. 

Fruits: guava, soursop, orange, lemon, tangerine, pineapple, macadamia, chontaduro, raspberry, mango & banana. 

Flowers: tropical flowers mainly heliconia like bird of paradise, ginger orchids, roses.

Bird of Paradise grow all over the farm
Red bananas, have hallucinogenic properties when eaten apparently

Stages in the Process of Coffee Production


1. Seedbed and seedling

2. Pruning and pest management (mainly the Coffee Berry Borer "drill"), wasp, fungus and re-re


Juan Jose, who has worked at the plantation all his life

Where the workers stay and eat

3. Coffee in production: 2 years for its first harvest (5 years in production, 3 cycles of 7 years)

The hills are so steep, this is difficult labour
'Cherries'
Path through the coffee fields
Helene, listening intently to Diana

4. Washing process (benedicio): coffee is gathered together, weighed and send to the de-pulper machine and then the mucilage is removed. 

It is washed and classified in the water. Pasilla (low quality coffee) floats - this is what is used to make instant coffee. Coffee is sent to the dried process in the silo.
Pasila (used for instant coffee)
Where all the beans are put to begin the washing process
The beans are put through these tubes
and these tubes
The bad ones float

5. Drying proces: coffee is dried, first in a pre-drying process and then the drying process itself. Maximum temperature 60 degrees. Final humidity between 9% and 12%. Coffee is sold out of the farm by kg.

These bags are made from natural fibres found in a local plant (like hemp)

6. Threshing: husk is removed from the coffee bean. To export coffee is classified by size with meshes. Big beans belong to higher meshes or supreme coffee. Colour and weightof beans are also selected. Then coffee is exported.

7. In every country coffee is blended and roasted. Roasting average temperature is 19-200 degrees during 15-20 minutes.

8. Finally, we can grind and brew our coffee to taste a very fresh cup of coffee, the best from Columbia! The coffee is delicious, very strong but the smell is amazing! The tour is informative, and Diana teaches us about selecting good coffee at home which is useful.



The main building at the plantation, with bounding dog & elbow
Clucks
Roasting the dried beans
Freshly roasted coffee beans
At last it's time to taste
The family pet, Polly
Certified!

The owner of the plantation gives us a lift to Chinchina, and we bus back to the city. In the morning, we take the bus to Medellin. The trip is well worth the three buses worth of travel.