El Valle de Anton, Panama

By chance, Helene and I come across an advertisement for Swami Yoga Camping in El Valle de Anton, three hours north of Panama City. El Valle, as it is known, is set in the crater of an extinct volcano. At the time there is no website so we are rather curious about what we might find. I speak to Swami, the creator of the camp, and get directions to the centre. We are both delighted to get out of the city and are keen to begin our 'health camp'. Unfortunately, Marie's grandfather has passed away so she is flying back to Norway for the funeral (we will reunite in Costa Rica next week). Adam has met up with a friend and is heading north to Bocas, a seaside party place - no, gracias!

We arrive at El Valle at 8pm, and are greeted by Swami (a Rastafarian dressed in all white) at the local shop. He leads the way through the darkness to the main house so it is hard to see the camping area but it all seems legitimate. There are about 10 other campers this evening, including a group of French travellers who have sailed across the Atlantic to Panama. This evening they make a delicious meal of lentils, vegetables and rice. Later we read and retire to our tent, sleeping soundly and waking up to an incredible chorus of singing birds. There are over 400 different species of birds in El Valle, and I would guess an equal number of insects. I have never seen so many insects of all shapes and sizes (including a disgusting giant black, flying-beetle that gets stuck in our hair, eeeew!).

Swami Yoga Camping

Sitting on the terrace (Helene & Sunita)

Alex is busy making jewelery

With the morning light we can see that the camp is set in a beautiful valley - surrounded by mountains, exotic flowers and luscious jungle.

El Valle by daylight

Entrance to Swami Yoga Camping (known as 'The Camping')

The shady part of the garden, perfect for reading in the hammock!

Main house

The walls are filled with inspirational figures and quotes

We spend the morning reading in hammocks, enjoying the peace, sunshine and quiet tremendously.

My fellow Capricorn friend doing some very early morning reading

In the afternoon, we take a stroll into town, pick up some locally-grown vegetables and eat some delicious shrimp for lunch.

Main street, El Valle

We return to the camp and make a large pot of soup (made with a rather generous hand of ginger!) which is enjoyed by all. A new guest has arrived - it's Canada, whom we just cannot rid of....actually it is really nice to have a friendly and familiar face around!

The very lovely Canada

The camp is strictly vegan - no animal products or coffee are permitted. There is a good atmosphere, and most people cook a large pot of food and share it.

After dinner I spend a couple of hours talking to Swami, an interesting and inspirational person. He is a mix of Moroccan, Spanish, Panamanian and Chilean and was educated in Mississippi. He has owned a vegetarian restaurant on Florida beach, lived in New York, spend 8 years in India training to be a monk, has given talks and conferences around the world on various matters of spirituality, has two children in Panama and now has created this relaxing retreat in El Valle. He practices yoga, meditation, massage, Reiki and reflexology. He tells me I have good energy and that I am independent, I do not need to draw greatly upon others (of course I like to hear this!). We talk a little about astrology and he tells me that as a Capricorn I set extremely high goals and work my way steadily towards achieving these goals. We talk a lot and he gives me a wonderful massage (perhaps the best massage of my life?!).

Swami's Cabin - fully equipped with Wi-Fi, Indian spices & a spiritual library!

Next day, Helene and I rise early and have a delicious fruit breakfast. Alex, Helene and I set off on a morning hike to the top of a nearby mountain, known as 'The Sleeping Indian' due to the shape (a women lying on her back ) and also apparently because a local Indian women fell in love with a Spanish invader who promised to meet her on the top of the mountain, she waited and waited and he never came......

Alex leads the way..pointing out various trees & animals

Rasta flag - Alex teaches us about the movement on route up the mountain!

"Ancient' art (??)

Path to the summit

This place is beautiful

El Valle, viewed from above

Melting & enjoying the view!

Path along the top of the edge of the extinct volcano

Helene & Alex having a well earned rest

It is a longer hike than we expect and in the heat we are close to collapsing! On route a giant frog hops out in front of me (no joke the size of football!) - I get such a fright that I forget to take a photo. I had no idea that frogs could be so huge. Alex, a Panamanian, teaches us a little about various trees, plants and animals. Two of the most dangerous species of frog are living here in the jungle - however it is very unusal to spot them in the wild as they are so tiny (the poison rests on their skin). The view from the top is wonderful and we get a clear view of volcano crater. The weather is fantastic again (considering it is now rainy season we are very lucky!). On the way down we swim in a waterfall and feel our skin sizzle as we cool down!

Cooling down at the waterfall

Afterwards we walk into town, buy more vegetables and find a hidden forest.....

The "hidden" forest!

This town is full of pretty flowers & hedges

Giant leaf-cutting ants

Following the very, very long ant trail!

Mangos!

El Valle is the wealthy Panamanian's weekend retreat and the houses are magnificent. A million miles away from the slums of Panama City. The air is so clean and fresh here, I feel I need to fill my lungs to full capacity in every breath to ensure I make full use of it's purity!

This afternoon we chat to fellow campers and continue with our books which we are enjoying so greatly. I am reading Paulo Coehlo, 'Veronika decides to Die', a good book for a retreat such as this! We are eating only vegetables and fruit, drinking only water and exercising every day. I feel my mind becoming clearer, and I am gaining more clarity about what I want to do with my life! It is nice to have so much time and space to think. There is a power-cut in El Valle this evening, so we make an onion and leek soup in the darkness on a gas stove and the sit around the fire (hippy TV!) in the garden. There is a new guy at the camp, a Panamanian who is living in Switzerland, we nickname him 'Uncle Bob' as he plays reggae music loudly every night, getting drunk and stoned. Helene and I both take an instant dislike to him, intuitively feeling that he has a bad 'vibe' (later we discover that he is aggressive and has fathered no less than seven children to different women). Later, myself and Helene meditate with Swami for three hours (from midnight until 3am!). He gives a special mantra which will help us to channel our energy into helping others in the future.

The following morning, Swami, Canada, Helene and myself hike to the top of Las Nubes, the highest point in the valley where (on a clear day) it is possible to see both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Another steep hike in the intense humidity. My new Panama hat shades me from the sun! On the way to the top, Helene and myself spot a white eagle - the national bird of Panama which is currently in extinction. Swami tells us we are very lucky and that this is a good sign for our lives. At the top we have a nap in the sunshine.

Beautiful white eagle

Looking out towards the Atlantic on one side, the Pacific on the other

Helene, Swami & Canada relaxing at the top of the mountain

It is so green!

Look at the length of those dreads!

Banana trees

Walking back to town

We walk back to the town, have a typical Panamanian lunch - lentils, plantain and rice. When we feel sufficiently nourished we wander along to the hot springs. First we plaster a mud mask on our faces, let it dry and rinse. Then we hop into the thermal, mineral bath for 45 minutes (a great deal warmer than the one we tried in Chile!).

Helene with mud mask

Swami looking....spiritual?!

Lots more people have arrived at the Camping now - more than 20 people. Inlcuding some Argentines who are driving from Ushuaia to Alaska! Swami has promised to teach Helene, Canada and myself one of his favourite Indian recipes. So, we four are a cooking team, and over the next two hours we create a meal for everyone - kofta, daal & rice.

Preparing Kofta (using Plantain)

It's all going really well....until I unscrew the food-blender at the wrong end and our freshly made tomato sauce spills EVERYWHERE and I mean everywhere - from ceiling to floor, and in every crevice of the white kitchen tiles. Aaarggh! Luckily the meal does not suffer (it is so good to cook and eat with some many spices!), and everyone grins in satisfaction with their full tummies!

There are a number of people (Indian, French) who has spent time in Ireland, even visiting my home town of Sligo! The Indian girl, Sunita, has worked on a WOOF (World wide opportunities on organic farms) farm in County Clare for two months. Helene and I notice that Swami does not talk very much to other guests, and we hear others asking him to meditate with them (to which he replies 'later, later'). However, in reality he invites only the two of us for meditation, saying that we have positive energy and do not drain him. Although we feel uncomfortable with this attention, we genuinely enjoy his company and listening to his advice. We meditate once more, and get a good night's sleep.

Next morning we are due to visit an organic farm and attend a class in organic farming but unfortunately Swami has got held up doing admin with his daughter in a nearby city so I go into town, do some laundry, spend an hour in the local library and then meet Helene for lunch. we spend the next hour talking about our future travel plans and decide that we are now ready to leave El Valle. We decide it is better to leave on a nightbus so that we arrive in San Jose, Costa Rica in the morning and can catch a bus to the coast. We ask about bus times and the last bus leaves in one hour! Quick dash back to the camping, pack our bags, say our goodbyes to fellow campers and the wonderful place that is El Valle. And we are gone, as quickly and spontaeously as we arrived.

We are hoping to catch a bus to the Pan-American highway, and from there flag down a Tica bus to San Jose, Costa Rica. Bad news, the bus drivers tells us that this will not be possible - we have to drive south to Panama City and then get a bus from there. A little dissapointed but what is 2 more hours extra when one is geared up for travelling for the next two days?! Just outside of Panama City a terrible incident occurs - one of those terrible situations that will stand out in my memory forever. A group of five guys who have been travelling on the bus for half an hour want to get off the bus beside one of the slum-areas and are refusing to pay the full amount owed. The bus conductor, a sweet young fellow, no more that 20 years old, is blocking their way off the bus and sternly telling them they need to pay. They barge past the conductor, one by one, pushing and shoving, until he is off the bus. The shouting and abuse begins - verbal and physical. The yobs begin to pick up rocks and aim for the conductors head, then drag him to the front of the bus where I cannot see what exactly happens. The faces of these guys I will never forget - angry, wide eyed, nose curled like snarling pittbulls The bus driver does nothing until one woman behind us begins shouting frantically 'Call the police, call the police!'. A tiny little child stands beside me watching the fracca. Eventually the bus driver gets to his feet and hovers around the door with phone in hand. The gang begin to run off and the conductor stumbles back on the bus, he has obviously been hit in the face. He is shaking violently and he desperately holds back the tears. It is such a terrible sight. I reach out to him, asking if there is anything I can do. Helene and I are really upset, it is the most awful feeling to watch something to terrible only a metre away and be so helpless.

We drive the last few miles to the bus station. The city seems dirtier and more shabby that I remember; the slums more desperate. The conductor approaches me at the station and thanks me for my concern, giving me directions on how to get our next bus. The poor fellow, what a terrible job - he must get these kind of thugs on the bus all the times. We wish him luck and wander around the shopping centre to pass the next four hours until our bus departs, thankful for how lucky we are.

Chinese for dinner, for the first time in a very long time!