Our journey in an old American school bus (painted with psychedelic) takes us to Colón, the most terrible place I have ever visited. Dangerous, dirty, busy and displaying scenes of abject poverty on every street. People stare through the windows of the bus with hollow, angry faces.
All other passengers sensibly disembark before Colon
We walk no more than 20 metres in the city, from one bus to the next and yet feel entirely unsafe. There is 40% unemployment here, and a high percentage of crack addicts who have no qualms about attacking for money. We have heard so many bad stories, including 9am attacks on female travelers two days previously - leaving her with a black eye and zero possessions.
Colón
Safely aboard another bus, Marie, Helene, Adam, Pierre, Gregory and I are relieved to leave. I have met many wonderful people doing interesting things on my travels - Pierre and Greg come high on this list. Read about their mission to understand and reduce poverty on their website http://www.latitude-responsable.com or join their Facebook group 'Latitude Responsable - Tour du monde de Pilou, Greg et Ludo'.
We arrive to Panama City and stay at a great hostel called Luna's Castle situated in Casco Viejo. Given that it is voting time, most restaurants and all bars/clubs are closed (it is illegal to sell alcohol). We are in the perfect hostel for relaxing- there is the best book exchange I have seen in Latin America, a movie theatre, pancakes and bananas for breakfast and lots of balconies and armchairs for lounging. We have met up fellow boat-trip survivors - it is nice to know so many people in one place!
Dinner at Luna's Castle with the Auzzie Blondes
I am now well and truly dosed with a bad cold and feel like doing nothing more than lying on my bed with a packet of vitamin C and my new book, The White Tiger by Aravind Adiga (I am so excited and lucky to get my hands on this!). Ir is hard to buy English books anywhere in Latin America, and if you are lucky enough to find a bookshop selling English books you will pay a minimum of $30 for any old junk novel. That is why the best hostels have created book exchanges where you can trade your valuable English book. A nice idea, but it has amazed me how many terrible books are being ready by backpackers (admittedly I am a book-snob) hence when I find a good one I get very excited!
Scott and his silly friend getting ready for a trip to the canal
The following afternoon I have a little more energy and join Helene, Marie and Scott in a trip to the Panama Canal. The weather is miserable - with heavy and constant rain. The taxi driver winks at me telling me that it won't stop for 6 months. The Panama Canal - one of the world's greatest engineering feats.
Miraflores Locks, Panama Canal
Big ship passing through Panama Canal
Moi et Marie
The canal stretches 80km from Panama City on the Pacific side to Colon on the Atlantic side, cutting through the Continental Divide. The easiest and best way to visit the Canal is at the Miraflores visitor centre, located just outside of Panama City. Over 14,000 vessels pass through the canal every year, paying a thousands of dollars depending on the weight of the ship and amount of cargo being carried. There is also a short film about the history of the canal and a museum. The US relinquished power of the canal on the 31st December 1999, and despite early doubts the Panamanians have successful reduced the time taken by each vessel to pass through the canal. There is currently an expansion program in place which will speed up the process further and enable larger, heavier vessels to pass. Later I learn that the indigenous people feel that the Canal disrupts the flow of energy from Central America through to South America and therefore, have an annual ceremony to re-balance and unleash energy blockages.
The restaurant at Miraflores is fabulous - for $25 dollars there is an all-you-can-eat buffet plus drinks and coffee. There is a large queue of boats waiting to pass through the locks, stretching as far as we can see and over lunch we watch two gigantic ships pass through the locks. Upstairs in the museum there is also a section about wildlife and fish around the canal. The name Panama literally means "Abundance" - referring to the amount of butterflies, insects, birds and wildlife in the country.
I find the canal interesting - it is something I remember reading about in primary school. However, I hope that the Panamanian government invest the money generated by the canal wisely - there is so much potential here for economic growth here.
Little else happens during our stay in Panama City, partly by choice but mainly due to the fact that everything is closed. We do however go shopping.... This is the place to buy electronics - it is a great deal cheaper than home. We buy Panama hats, which are 'super cool' (as they say here) and supposedly travel well (a lie, I discover later). The shops are great, equally as good as in Colombia.
My beloved Panama hat, prior to squashing
Panama City is nothing like I imagined. The 'Miami of the south' is a filthy place, full of slums, ghettos and collapsing buildings. There are high-rise buildings and wealthy areas but the poverty is everywhere. There is a charm to the place, despite the feeling it may crumble into the sea at any moment. Even around where our hostel is situated, near the President's home, the buildings appear to be on the verge of collapse.
Panama is probably the first place on this trip that I have felt unsafe - this city is not the place to walk at night, even in groups. Although around Casca Vieja there is a heavy police presence so it is probably ok.
Next door to our hostel, Casco Viejo
Torrential rain viewed from Luna's Castle
Taxi drivers lock doors as they drive through various neighbourhoods. Casco Viejo, the colonial district, is a dilapidated area with cobblestone streets, old churches and plazas - with a Havana-esque feel. This area is currently part of an urban renewal program. I do not have any unpleasant feelings about Panama city (aside from humidity and torrential rain - but that is my fault for visiting during rainy season!). I could happily spend a few more days here but I feel fatigued with city life and really keen to get out into the countryside and getting closer to the abundant wildlife and jungle that I have read about.
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