Wednesday 27 May 2009

Saint John of the Surf


Martha likes to gossip in her pink satin nightgown, exchanging stories about the neighbours or giving her friends the low-down about each of the people staying at her guesthouse. She is obsessed with cleaning, frequently re-cleaning in the footsteps of her hired-help. She mentions the weather in every conversation. It is nice to have her around, she has the qualities of a big-hearted aunt. We rent a room from her for five nights.

San Juan del Sur is a coastal town on the Pacific side of Nicaragua. The town has been gringofied, this is not a place to seek culture. It is not unpleasant, with bright-coloured buildings and a number of good cafes and restaurants.
Main street, San Juan del Sur
El Gato Negro - a place of hummus, books & world-weary owners
Saturday market, San Juan del Sur

The most important thing to mention about our stay here is that Irina and I discover our love of surfing! I have found previous surfing expeditions in the Atlantic ocean to be less than enthralling, but here in the Pacific ocean is another ballgame! Once in the water, we stay for up to 5 hours at a time - feeling so all-consumed with the waves that we forget hunger-rumbles and jellyfish stings! A Peruvian chap with atrocious English and straw-like blond hair gives us some coaching. Together we stay in the water (laughing and laughing) until the final moments of daylight. Back to town and Martha is always waiting to give us a warm welcome and beaming smile.

All pictures of me surfing have been stolen along with Helene's camera. I do have a picture of a wave.
Wave at Playa Remanso

When not surfing we spend time at the beach, reading and avoiding crabs/hawkers/men/ thieves.
Irina, Irina's guardian angel, Elaine & Helene
Local beach at San Juan del Sur (not for surfing)
Same beach as above

I practice yoga every day at the local health centre and read a book called Eat Pray Love by Elizabeth Gilbert.
In The Jungle Room we dance salsa. Marie dances with a gangster boy who says ´24 years I half´ when asked.
Watching an electrical storm on the seafront
Iguana, where the gangstas hang out
We watch some sunsets and incredible thunderstorms that last for hours. Then, we leave.
There are lots of frogs and toads

1 comment:

  1. I would love to meet Martha. We all need a Martha in our lives.

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